I'm a Oil Junkie

[white99]

mobil 1 every 3k

[brad8266]

mobil 1 5w-30 every 2-3k miles

[Liquifire]

Since you guys are so knowledgeable about oil, is Royal Purple really a "better" oil? I also use Mobil One Synthetic and wonder if paying the extra $ is worth it. I'm sure the answer is no, synthetic is synthetic, but hey it doesn't hurt to ask.

I work on an offroad race truck and we run oil temp gauges and found the following:
during a fifteen minute race our oil temps would get up to 300+ if using any non synthetic oils
Mobil one dropped the oil temps by about twenty degrees to 280 and switching to amsoil we dropped it to about 250-260 .......this is not representative of everyday usage but keep in mind that the water temp stays always inbetween 180-200 at all times no matter which oil.....so all in all it is kind of an accepted opinion that Mobil 1 is the cheapest and least effective of the synthetics but all of the higher end oils.......Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. work better under extreme conditions. I guess it all depends on what your uses are. I just have my own opinions formed because of the info stated above.

[Liquifire]

Short answer...no Royal Purple is not "better" oil than Mobil 1. However it depends on your viewpoint here...RP uses heavy doses of Phospherous as a additive.....this is good for cleaning etc. Mobil 1 5-30 thins out to a 20 weight after less than 500 miles.....the friction modifiers are superior in Mobil 1 but the add packs are superior in RP (rust/oxidation/engine cleaning agents etc)...so if you look at Used Oil Analysis you see Mobil 1 has better wear results after 5000-/+ Oil Change Intervals but RP provides better long term protection on engine tear down and ring wear......Me...I use Amsoil 0-30 and KN Filters....love you long time baby

Sarge how often do you change your oil?

[BlackHawk T/A]

I work on an offroad race truck and we run oil temp gauges and found the following:
during a fifteen minute race our oil temps would get up to 300+ if using any non synthetic oils
Mobil one dropped the oil temps by about twenty degrees to 280 and switching to amsoil we dropped it to about 250-260 .......this is not representative of everyday usage but keep in mind that the water temp stays always inbetween 180-200 at all times no matter which oil.....so all in all it is kind of an accepted opinion that Mobil 1 is the cheapest and least effective of the synthetics but all of the higher end oils.......Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. work better under extreme conditions. I guess it all depends on what your uses are. I just have my own opinions formed because of the info stated above.

You can't judge an oil by simply looking at oil temperature...

[RED02HAWK]

Ive been using mobil 1 5-30 and mobil 1 filter since the car was new and i change every 2500 ive had no problems

[BlackHawk T/A]

Ive been using mobil 1 5-30 and mobil 1 filter since the car was new and i change every 2500 ive had no problems

I don't think this is necessary unless you race the car every day...I thought that stuff was really good for at least 5k miles but people just do 3k to be on the safe side. It can't hurt though.

[Sarge]

You can't judge an oil by simply looking at oil temperature...

No but you can sure as hell judge the friction modifiers and viscosity enhancements ("ers) by the temp I beleive that is what his point is.....

[Sarge]

Sarge how often do you change your oil?

On the Goat is not a good indicator for "normal OCI's....depends on what we are doing....drag strip/flying mile....I change afterwards regardless....garage queen/street beast...every three months...condensation doesn't care if your running synthetics or dino Now the daily driver Dodge R/T....every 5000 miles or 6 months.....I'm running GC 0-30 in it right now....

[Liquifire]

You can't judge an oil by simply looking at oil temperature...

I am not trying to judge the oil simply by this ....but there are some interesting characteristics of individual oils that should be taken into consideration while trying to pick which oil suits your budget and/or needs. A lot depends on the individual preference or application.

[Liquifire]

No but you can sure as hell judge the friction modifiers and viscosity enhancements ("ers) by the temp I beleive that is what his point is.....

[BlackHawk T/A]

Yup i'm just saying after reading about oil analysis results (what's left in the oil after its drained) you learn there is more to take into consideration.

[Liquifire]

Yup i'm just saying after reading about oil analysis results (what's left in the oil after its drained) you learn there is more to take into consideration.

I agree

[Rhino21149]

. . . are some folks out there that still think 0-30 is lighter than 5-30

You seem to be implying that 0-30 is not lighter than 5-30, I'm not sure what the point is.

I became really interested in oils and their suitability about a year ago when I had to chose an oil for my new engine, and researched it alot. It was pretty interesting, and complicated. I did a lot of internet research, and I also found a tribologist (friction-wear-lubrication engineer -- spouse of a co-worker) to talk to and asked her some questions about oil and lubrication)

Oils vary from one manufacturer to another, so one company's 0-30 can be a lot different than another company's 0-30 even though both are labeled the same: they may be rated against different standards, or just tested slightly different, and still meet the appropriate standard for that definition, like 0-30

But thickness varies with temperature which is, off course, the whole point of the dual rating 0-30. the first number is the cold rating and the last a higher temp rating -- I forget what now but the data was out there, I dug down in various websites for Mobile, Pennzoil and Castrol and elsewhere , and can go enough data to plot SAE viscousity-versus-oil-temperature-curves for most of the popular auto oils (Mobil1, etc.) from 0 to 255 deg F. The data was buried in the technical spec sheets attached to their web sites, always in a different format, etc., but the same values to the same SAE standard definitions. The curves show how each particular oil varies in viscosity --basically thickness-- from cold to very hot.

One thing I did discover, is that within nearly any manufacturer's product line, a 10-40, for example, will be thicker at ALL temperatures, than a 0-40: In my ignorance, I expected that the "10" would be thicker at cold temps than the 0-40, but the same thickness at high temps since both have the 40 rating. But plotting the curves for all grades of the same type of Mobil1, for example, or various Pennzoil syn oils, shows that is not quite the case: a 10-30 was much thicker at low temps than a 0-30, but still slightly thicker at high temps.

Looking at the various grades and the curves available, and knowing that my vette, like all LS strokers, is hard on oil temp, I picked a Mobil1 0-40 European syn for winter spring and fall (Note, they recently changed the labeling on this oil to delete the "European" and it did not meet certain SAE codes, but I selected it anyway - it was the factory oil in Porsche turbos so I felt it would probably be okay). Although a 0-40, its thinner at low temps than most "5 - XXs" and all other "0-40s" I could find but according to the curves its noticeably thicker at high temps than any other 0-40 and some 10-40s I could find."

What I learned is not to trust the ratings and to dig down to the spec sheets, and that the good oil suppliers provide that data on their web sites.

By the way it is a suberb oil although I use the 15-50 oil during the 100 deg summers here - my vette runs oil up past 230 deg F when its running hard.

[LS1-450]

Lucas also ='s bad IMO!

Agreed with one exception. Lucas pure synthetic oil stabilizer by itself works great in the turret. Have found none better. That's a lot more than can be said for its' advertised purpose.

Granted, just about anything works in the turret, but, that stuff really makes it easy on the shifting.

[GatorSS]

...Looking at the various grades and the curves available, and knowing that my vette, like all LS strokers, is hard on oil temp, I picked a Mobil1 0-40 European syn for winter spring and fall (Note, they recently changed the labeling on this oil to delete the "European" and it did not meet certain SAE codes, but I selected it anyway - it was the factory oil in Porsche turbos so I felt it would probably be okay). Although a 0-40, its thinner at low temps than most "5 - XXs" and all other "0-40s" I could find but according to the curves its noticeably thicker at high temps than any other 0-40 and some 10-40s I could find."

What I learned is not to trust the ratings and to dig down to the spec sheets, and that the good oil suppliers provide that data on their web sites.

By the way it is a suberb oil although I use the 15-50 oil during the 100 deg summers here - my vette runs oil up past 230 deg F when its running hard.

That's why I run Mobil 1 0w40 year 'round. If I were running at the track in the summer, I might substitute a quart or two or three with 15w50. On the street, I control myself pretty well so the 0w40 is fine.

How high does your oil temp run when you're running it hard? For how long?

[LS1-450]

My LS1 likes cocktails. It gets a steady diet of Castrol 0-W30 (German), 6 oz. of Valvoline SynPower oil treatment, 2-3 oz. of AutoRx; K&N long (2006) filter. Change once or twice a year. Usually in the spring after winter storage.

The 3.4L Buick (daily driver) likes Amsoil 5W-30 & 2 oz. of AutoRx; K&N (1001) filter. Change every 5,000 or 6 months.

Both engines have pre-oilers to elliminate unlubricated start-ups & invers oilers filled w/Marvel Mystery oil for top end lubrication & to keep the intake clean. Haven't had to clean the throttle body or intake since using MMO through the inverse oilers. They're awesome!

[GatorSS]

Where do you have the MMO entering the throttle body/intake?

[Sarge]

You seem to be implying that 0-30 is not lighter than 5-30, I'm not sure what the point is.

I became really interested in oils and their suitability about a year ago when I had to chose an oil for my new engine, and researched it alot. It was pretty interesting, and complicated. I did a lot of internet research, and I also found a tribologist (friction-wear-lubrication engineer -- spouse of a co-worker) to talk to and asked her some questions about oil and lubrication)

Oils vary from one manufacturer to another, so one company's 0-30 can be a lot different than another company's 0-30 even though both are labeled the same: they may be rated against different standards, or just tested slightly different, and still meet the appropriate standard for that definition, like 0-30

But thickness varies with temperature which is, off course, the whole point of the dual rating 0-30. the first number is the cold rating and the last a higher temp rating -- I forget what now but the data was out there, I dug down in various websites for Mobile, Pennzoil and Castrol and elsewhere , and can go enough data to plot SAE viscousity-versus-oil-temperature-curves for most of the popular auto oils (Mobil1, etc.) from 0 to 255 deg F. The data was buried in the technical spec sheets attached to their web sites, always in a different format, etc., but the same values to the same SAE standard definitions. The curves show how each particular oil varies in viscosity --basically thickness-- from cold to very hot.

One thing I did discover, is that within nearly any manufacturer's product line, a 10-40, for example, will be thicker at ALL temperatures, than a 0-40: In my ignorance, I expected that the "10" would be thicker at cold temps than the 0-40, but the same thickness at high temps since both have the 40 rating. But plotting the curves for all grades of the same type of Mobil1, for example, or various Pennzoil syn oils, shows that is not quite the case: a 10-30 was much thicker at low temps than a 0-30, but still slightly thicker at high temps.

Looking at the various grades and the curves available, and knowing that my vette, like all LS strokers, is hard on oil temp, I picked a Mobil1 0-40 European syn for winter spring and fall (Note, they recently changed the labeling on this oil to delete the "European" and it did not meet certain SAE codes, but I selected it anyway - it was the factory oil in Porsche turbos so I felt it would probably be okay). Although a 0-40, its thinner at low temps than most "5 - XXs" and all other "0-40s" I could find but according to the curves its noticeably thicker at high temps than any other 0-40 and some 10-40s I could find."

What I learned is not to trust the ratings and to dig down to the spec sheets, and that the good oil suppliers provide that data on their web sites.

By the way it is a suberb oil although I use the 15-50 oil during the 100 deg summers here - my vette runs oil up past 230 deg F when its running hard.

Spec sheets are what drives the decision on oils for sure....or should I say they eliminate the Internet experts "knowledge"....my comment was more specific to the "assumptions" and "Internet knowledge" of many a enthusiast.....0-30 is often times referred to as a winter oil or a very thin viscosity oil...you and I both know that is the farthest from the truth....cSt @100c (212 Degrees) tells the viscosity story much better from the spec sheets....

[LS1-450]

Where do you have the MMO entering the throttle body/intake?

It's Teed into the PCV valve line between the PCV valve & the intake manifold.