01 cobra vs. 00 Z28

[wooddaniel]

Leadfarmer, With your mods, get some decent tires and a stall and you will have him easy. Down the line when you have the $ The setup I went with was a Yank 3500 Stall, 373 gears with a rear end girdle and synthetic fluid, and Nitto 315/35/18' DR's on the back. I also had the supporting suspension mods. Before I had my cam installed I was beating many faster cars because I was hooking up consistently every tme I ran at the track. Also after the rear end brace I put over 80K on the stock rear end and it never gave me any trouble. The car eventually put down 370RWHP(and I was NOT easy on it.) Decide what you want before you start spending the $$ though. It's expensive to change things.

Edit: If you can afford to do it, do stall gears and tires at the same time.

[BLKCLOUD]

What he said. A properly setup LS1 A4 can be brutal in a drag race.

[joedude02]

i ran a few months with a stock stall and some ET street dr's. i had no problems at all getting out the hole. granted i didn't have the stock 3.23's, i was running with 3.73's. great all around gear for an A4--n/a though.

[wooddaniel]

i ran a few months with a stock stall and some ET street dr's. i had no problems at all getting out the hole. granted i didn't have the stock 3.23's, i was running with 3.73's. great all around gear for an A4--n/a though.

373's are in my opinion the best gear for the A4. Doesn't hurt the mileage too much on the highway but still gets out of the hole pretty good.

[00z28bubba]

There's no real "driving" to a stab-n-steer car (A4), so I disagree with your statement.



What? How much track racing have you done? Drag Radials - most especially those like M/T Drag Radials - can make a HUGE difference.



Doubt it, but its pure conjecture and speculation.



Bologna. LS1Tech.com has a lot more racers - and certainly a lot more faster racers.

The main issue with a mostly-stock suspension being lowered is that it inhibits weight transfer. I don't care what you have for LCA's or other typical suspension mods, if the car is "slammed", it will hurt traction.

The exception would be a properly setup drag car that is designed to have virtually no 'give' in the suspension at all. We're not talking cars like that here though.

stab n steer is exactly that with a new driver. someone who would go race their first time is not gonna find that nice little spot that keeps from spinning the wheels their first time out or even their first few passes. not too many are in a position to where they have multiple sets of rims and/or tires for dd/track use. nor do i expect people to have them.

this is my particular view but i just never really considered drag radials a true blue street tire. some drive them on the street, again that is just my view. but i dont personally know anybody who drives their car regularly and rides on m/t et streets 24/7.

seat time goes back to the sweet spot and a new driver.

as far as ls1tech, i wasnt aware that the aftermarket was so deep for these cars that ls1tech is the only site that has info that would help any racer. he will get just as good info on any site that is meant for these cars. but then again you really wont get much spectacular tech info on our kill forum as you've noticed. but their kill forum isnt filled with pulitzer pieces either. to say our tech info isnt on par with other sites is far from true. our tech doesnt get 1/4 the traffic that ls1tech probably but its not for the lack of quality info. more info isnt better when it is the same info.

[0verkill]

stab n steer is exactly that with a new driver. someone who would go race their first time is not gonna find that nice little spot that keeps from spinning the wheels their first time out or even their first few passes. not too many are in a position to where they have multiple sets of rims and/or tires for dd/track use. nor do i expect people to have them.

this is my particular view but i just never really considered drag radials a true blue street tire. some drive them on the street, again that is just my view. but i dont personally know anybody who drives their car regularly and rides on m/t et streets 24/7.

seat time goes back to the sweet spot and a new driver.

as far as ls1tech, i wasnt aware that the aftermarket was so deep for these cars that ls1tech is the only site that has info that would help any racer. he will get just as good info on any site that is meant for these cars. but then again you really wont get much spectacular tech info on our kill forum as you've noticed. but their kill forum isnt filled with pulitzer pieces either. to say our tech info isnt on par with other sites is far from true. our tech doesnt get 1/4 the traffic that ls1tech probably but its not for the lack of quality info. more info isnt better when it is the same info.

good post i cant stand any part of tech and this site has good info for the 1st time track day to as well as for guys like me that have a lot of time at the track. look at the link i posted and it will be a big help if its your 1st time.

[BLKCLOUD]

stab n steer is exactly that with a new driver. someone who would go race their first time is not gonna find that nice little spot that keeps from spinning the wheels their first time out or even their first few passes. not too many are in a position to where they have multiple sets of rims and/or tires for dd/track use. nor do i expect people to have them.

Certainly if on hard compound tires, there is a "best spot" for launching. After that, keep your foot on the gas, go straight. Not knocking it, as autos rule at the track (until you get into race-only manuals). But the skill level required simply isn't high.

this is my particular view but i just never really considered drag radials a true blue street tire. some drive them on the street, again that is just my view. but i dont personally know anybody who drives their car regularly and rides on m/t et streets 24/7.

Many DRs aren't good in the rain, and thus I agree. Some are - Nittos are a good example. I had them on my 04 Cobra as a daily driver. They didn't hook that car very well at all (550 RWHP was the problem there), but for a mild bolt-on A4 setup.....they can work quite well.

as far as ls1tech, i wasnt aware that the aftermarket was so deep for these cars that ls1tech is the only site that has info that would help any racer.

Never said it was the only - but in my opinion, is the best. Last I'll say about that on this site though.

he will get just as good info on any site that is meant for these cars.

Disagree.

but then again you really wont get much spectacular tech info on our kill forum as you've noticed. but their kill forum isnt filled with pulitzer pieces either.

No arguement with that.

to say our tech info isnt on par with other sites is far from true.

We all have our opinions.

our tech doesnt get 1/4 the traffic that ls1tech probably but its not for the lack of quality info. more info isnt better when it is the same info.

Once again, we all have our opinions.

[joedude02]

373's are in my opinion the best gear for the A4. Doesn't hurt the mileage too much on the highway but still gets out of the hole pretty good.

lid only N/A motor i was hitting a 1.78 average 60' i thought that was pretty good with the money invested at that point, but damn does it cost more to get into the 1.50's

[MattxFatal]

Also leave the transmission in OD.

Yes the 10 bolts are known to be weak, but with an Auto car they tend to break less compared to the M6's. I have personally seen stock 10 bolts go 10.0's@134 on a tire.

I would advise to not leave the car in OD unless you want to *** the sprag.
Launch in 3rd to save the sprag, then right before the 2-3 shift move it up to OD if you want to preserve the overrun clutches because you lose about 100psi of line pressure between the 2-3 shift if you're in D.

However, I would advise you to just leave it in 3rd(D) the whole time.
The highest gear you will have in your car is 3.23s. (You need to check your door and find out what gears you have)
You will roll through the traps at the top of 3rd even with 3.23s.
A WOT shift into 4th is one of the worst things for a stock 4l60E.
I would rather have a drop in line pressure.

I agree, the ten bolt can go a long way behind an auto.
However if you're worried about keeping it in one piece, DO NOT mess with gears.
Yes you can pick up a little with gears, however you significantly shorten the life-span of a ten bolt once you crack it open.
Hell, just find a cheap SS 3.42 rear and swap that ****er in there.

And all this info I posted was info affirmed by FLT and RPMWS6.
If you don't know who they are, I'm sorry...
-Matt

EDIT: Because I can't...swear?!

[MrMasterCraft]

I would advise to not leave the car in OD unless you want to *** the sprag.
Launch in 3rd to save the sprag, then right before the 2-3 shift move it up to OD if you want to preserve the overrun clutches because you lose about 100psi of line pressure between the 2-3 shift if you're in D.

I, myself, appreciate this good quality info

[jetaws6]

My car dynoed 285rwhp stock you don't have headers and have the ls-1 manifold that is about right. You really are a lid and catback(don't get what you mean by no muffler) away from stock. If you have stock gears I have found the 2nd to 3rd gear pull is a dead spot until after 100mph (105-108 is where you'll finish the 1/4). I say you have a chance but if he gets you out of the hole there is no chance with your gearing to catch up especially after 80mph(3.23's).
Get some lca relocation brackets they can be had for under $80 and pushed me from 13's to the 12's.
Do you have aftermarket wheels? If you by chance have the 16's use those and let the rears out to about 25psi and go down until you hook.

Where did you get those lca's from?

[LeadFarmer]

ight well my bud is back this weekend for his birthday and he wants to run me so I'll hopefully get it on tape, unless he doesn't want it on tape for some reason. As far as driver experience goes though if I ever had up on him it's all gone now lol. since he's been @ college he's been part of some porsche sponsored weekend track meet thing. So he's had def. learned how to drive his car.
since my last post I've gotten 275/45/r16 toyo proxy tq drag radials in the rear and figured out the problem wit my low dyno numbers(302-302) was clogged cats. so I put some hf's on their and regardless of what anyone thinks I feel the difference lol, my petal def. got a bit more sensitive my car also got a helluva lot louder
O and I almost forgot, I slapped on some hockey sticks on my car so I'm guessing those are worth about 50rwhp each, give or take a bit eh? so I think I got this one in the bag

[LeadFarmer]

sure enough we raced and I got it on recorded, will post it up shortly

[LeadFarmer]

here's the link to vid
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bD87vv-gx70"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bD87vv-gx70[/ame]

[c5z28]

Aw man did you even get into 3rd? At least it looks like you edged him out at the end.

[camarospade]

why were the races cut so short?

[LeadFarmer]

traffic, we live in arlington and there are no open streets around here and always a ton of cops. later that night we race on a highway from a 40 roll all the way up to 130 and I had a car on him

[MrMasterCraft]

[Knight]

Nice!

[98Z28CamaroJG]

Excellent win! Wish you had that last run on tape! haha