need help!! please

**bigrondownhiller** · 12-10-2009, 03:38 PM

Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie

haha lol thanks for the effort bro. bigrons idea worked and the picture no my radiator cover worked just fine for the most part. there is one thing on the back of the fuel rail that looks like a hose might or should be there or maybe not. on the diagram it is depicted but it has no hoses or lines coming from it or leading anywhere and all it says is "to access" any ideas?

Is it a schraeder valve?

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-11-2009, 12:17 PM

im not even sure what a schroeder valve is or does. but those pics help a ton smittro!

that will help so much with the vac and emissions crap. thats exactly what i needed. i got the new connecting rod attached today and im debating running and getting a ring compressor to attach my connecting rods and pistons and new rings tonight. but i gota turn in kinda early. i have the ACT in the morning

thanks again smittro. your the prime example of the experienced helping the newbies grow learn and enjoy the passion we all share. nomatter how many cylinders that entells lol

**bigrondownhiller** · 12-11-2009, 12:22 PM

Schraeder valve would be to check the fuel pressure. It looks a little like the valve on your tires. You will need a ring compressor to put the pistons back in the block. They are set to what your bore is. If you have to put the rings back on the pistons you will also need a tool for that. You should be able to rent them if you need. It is nice to have the tools though if you are ever going to use them again. Don't forget to stagger the ring gaps.

**Smittro** · 12-11-2009, 12:49 PM

....and use a bladed feeler guage to make sure the rings don't clash @ their ends. You'll need the ring spreader to install your rings properly as Big Ron stated as well.. Don't have to worry about thanking me, I'm very glad to help out..

**Smittro** · 12-11-2009, 01:42 PM

Checking for ring clearance.

1. Place one ring flat into the cylinder bore without the piston.

2. carefully invert the piston and use it press the ring down into the bore about 1/2 an inch or so. If it wont move or fit STOP!

2A. With a fine machine file, (only if the gap is closed while inside the bore) file the open ends where the they are flat. Just a little then try again.

3. Once the ring is inserted into the bore:

A. check the ring gap with your feeler guage. Below are the specs for your engine starting with the minimum and going up to the maximum allowed for each ring gap.

B. top compression ring gap should be---------0.007 to 0.016 in.
C. second compression ring gap should be--------0.019 to 0.029 in.
D. oil control ring should be----------0.010 to 0.030 in.

4. Once the optimum ring gap clearance is established, go a head and with your ring tool start to install your rings on your pistons.
Hope this helps.. Remeber to take your time and, details,details,details lol.

Good luck..

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-12-2009, 09:46 AM

thanks guys. i got the pistons with new rings installed. and connecting rods attached to the crank. everything is done systematically perfect and by the book. i followed every step to a T. my only concern is that it is really tight and hard to turn. theres no binding or anything. but its just really hard to turn. i had my stepdad inspect it. (NOT an engine expert mind you) and he said he thinks its just the new rings and stuff. what do you guys think? like i said there is no binding or anything just hard to rotate using the flywheel. im gonna work on it the rest of the afternoon and hopefully get it all back together on the assumption that its normal for them to be hard to turn by hand at this stage.

sidenote took the ACT this morning

it sux

**bigrondownhiller** · 12-12-2009, 10:41 AM

Did you lube the pistons when you put them in? Did you use assembly lube on all the bearings? If you removed the crank did you put all the main caps back on where they came off?

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-12-2009, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller

Did you lube the pistons when you put them in? Did you use assembly lube on all the bearings? If you removed the crank did you put all the main caps back on where they came off?

yes yes yes yes and yes. i lubed everything and made sure a but all the new main bearings in the right place correctly lubed, and all the rod bearings in correctly and lubed. im not sure y its this tight. but since there is no binding it should be safe to put together and start up right?

**bigrondownhiller** · 12-12-2009, 11:16 AM

Did you reinstall the head? If so it will be tight. I haven't put an engine together myself but just as long as it is not binding you should be good to go. If you put in new bearings did you measure to make sure you have the right clearance?

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-12-2009, 11:25 AM

Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller

Did you reinstall the head? If so it will be tight. I haven't put an engine together myself but just as long as it is not binding you should be good to go. If you put in new bearings did you measure to make sure you have the right clearance?

the head.. do you mean the cylinder heads? no. im waiting till i figure this tight situation out. the bearings are good its all stock and i ordered the right ones through the company so im good on all that.. im thinking its just the bearings and new rings are creating drag and stuff making it hard to turn. am i wrong?

**bigrondownhiller** · 12-12-2009, 11:30 AM

It won't be easy to turn by hand because of all the parts. Even though you have the right bearings you should measure the clearance. If you don't have the tools you can get plastigauge cheap and it will work fine. You need to make sure you have the right clearance for the main and rod bearings.

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-12-2009, 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller

It won't be easy to turn by hand because of all the parts. Even though you have the right bearings you should measure the clearance. If you don't have the tools you can get plastigauge cheap and it will work fine. You need to make sure you have the right clearance for the main and rod bearings.

alright thank you very much. im gonna finish loading the digital picture frame i got for the girlfriends christmas and check that then if its right finish putting together the rest of the motor and hopefully order my new oil pan i have to get. thanks alot big ron

**tep98ws6** · 12-12-2009, 11:37 AM

google search leads me to epic fail.

cant blame a girl for trying

**bigrondownhiller** · 12-12-2009, 11:37 AM

Your welcome. good luck and just post if you have questions.

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-12-2009, 11:49 AM

Originally Posted by tep98ws6

google search leads me to epic fail.

cant blame a girl for trying

lol well thank you :wink: nice car btw

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-12-2009, 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller

Your welcome. good luck and just post if you have questions.

will do big ron. which means i'll be back soon lol with questions im sure. i'll post an update soon

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-13-2009, 08:30 AM

where are you smittro? i been kinda waiting for your opinion on the whole motor tightness situation. i put my water pump and stuff on last night. today im going for harmonic balancer, cylinder heads, manifold, and possibly fuel injection. all on the assumption that its the new parts making it all so hard to turn by hand.

**Smittro** · 12-13-2009, 09:18 AM

It should'nt be overly hard to turn the crank. Did you remember to use a heavy rubber mallet to shift the crank while the mains were still slightly loose? This drives the crank slighlty forward from the back and then slighlty back from the front to ensure the front and rear mains trust to crank are aligned. Then feeler guage them to make sure of the proper clearance and no binding. Also Did you gap check your rings before intalling then? If not your rings could be binding. It should be stiff when you turn the crank but you should be able to turn it. If it's super hard to turn there is a problem somewhere that needs to be resolved.

**Smittro** · 12-13-2009, 09:26 AM

Check,check, and recheck. There will be no turning back after it's fired up for the first time. Better to be sure of every measruement is correct before you reinstall the motor..

Almost forgot,,, did you make sure ALL the caps, (mains and rod) were placed on the motor in the exact possition they were in when they came off?

**adrenalinejunkie** · 12-13-2009, 10:27 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Check,check, and recheck. There will be no turning back after it's fired up for the first time. Better to be sure of every measruement is correct before you reinstall the motor..

Almost forgot,,, did you make sure ALL the caps, (mains and rod) were placed on the motor in the exact possition they were in when they came off?

yes yes yes and yes. i even went as far as to redo it. i took all my main bearing caps off and reinstalled them again. i have checked everything twice. but i still cant turn the crank by hand

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