Header Install

[pajeff02]

Yeah there was not much problems with the passenger side it slided through fine, except that the K-member is very close to the header. According to the header install directions on the post the K-member needs to be grinded down so I will be doing that on the passenger and driver side. I just tried to slide in the driver side header, but unfortunately I wasn't lucky enough to get it through. I will post a picture of the header on the passenger side. Now I have to wait another week to install the driver side header, another long week of waiting patiently.

I did have to clearance the K-member flange on the driver side about 1/8" to get the header up in place. There's a square protrusion on the side of the engine block that I just could not get past. Will await pics.

[bberretta]

I did have to clearance the K-member flange on the driver side about 1/8" to get the header up in place. There's a square protrusion on the side of the engine block that I just could not get past. Will await pics.

Mine was tight at the K-member and on that square piece but I didn't modify it. Sure, it was tight, but it fit- the square peice and the header are both fixed so they shouldn't rub, but the K shouldn't be an issue since the poly mounts won't let it move much. I'm keeping an eye on it to make sure that the pipe isn't rubbing the K, but so far so good.

[thirdavesav]

Okay... I unbolted the DS motor mount from the K-Member side and jacked up the motor for more clearance. I then tried to install the header and it still isn't sliding through. It still appears to be caught between the K-Member and block (machined lip where the oil filter is placed). Here is a pic of where the header is making contact with the K-Member and motor.

[Cutlass]

I couldn't get my drivers side Kooks header in very easily either. I suspect if I had it up higher on a hoist I would have been able to twist it up in there better.
I had to remove the motor mount stand from the car, slide the header up in there, loosely hold it up there with one loosely threaded in bolt and then reinstall the motor mount stand.

[bberretta]

I ended up shaving the K a little. If I were you, start with the K- you've got over a 1/4 inch you can shave and smooth. Try that first. I wouldn't go about messing with machined lip at the oil filter. If it's hitting that lip, most likely your oil filter is going to hit as well and that'll never work.

[98Z28CamaroJG]

Hey! I just bought the race style pacesetter headers, and i'm taking out the EGR and AIR. Where do i get the block off plates for removing those?

[shady milkman]

Hey! I just bought the race style pacesetter headers, and i'm taking out the EGR and AIR. Where do i get the block off plates for removing those?

kyspeed or ws6store is where i would go.

[johnnybbb]

I just wish I had a friend close to me that likes to wrench like you do.

Awesome pics and titles/instructions/watch-outs

Thank you!

J

Install
- NOTE - Before starting, make sure you have all your parts and tools, test fit anything such as y-pipe to verify fitment. You don’t want to be stuck with a part that doesn’t fit.

- Remove negative battery cable (or both if u wanna).

- Jack the car up and put it on stands or lift if your lucky enough. I did the whole install with only 18” of lift, but made for a very unpleasant experience on my back (sure that’s how my first gf felt).

- OPTIONAL - Remove 13mm bolts holding starter in place and carefully wiggle it free. Then remove the 8mm nut holding lead to ignition and 13mm nut and power wire and remove starter. I didn’t follow this step and it was a non-issue for me.

- Take apart anything that might be in your way in the engine bay. I removed my Fuel Rail Covers.


- Remove AIR provisions from your manifold using 10mm ratchet and good extensions. Once off I used a flathead screwdriver to remove the metal AIR pipe from the hose.



Time to go under the car…
- Remove the four bolts holding the cross brace that sits right underneath your Y-pipe 15mm if I recall. My new 3” Y-pipe didn’t clear so I left it off. Others have shimmed and reinstalled it after


- Now it’s time to remove the stock Y-pipe using a 15mm ratchet and some brute force. (Aren’t you glad you used pbblaster now). The flange piece that molds to the cats was the hardest part here.
- OPTIONAL – Some people have cut theirs off with a sawzall.


- After you loosened the Y-pipe from the cats, go ahead and remove any extra clamps or mounts holding the Y-pipe in.


- Now you should be able to gently remove the stock Y-pipe and get it out of your way.

- Remove your 02 sensor connections from the car.

- OPTIONAL - If you plan on reusing your 02’s, I would now go and using the 7/8’s wrench take them out. Mine were near impossible and I was only able to remove one out of four. I later took a benzo torch and heated them up (about 5-8 seconds) where the 02’s meet with the piping. They popped right off without any effort. Otherwise, you can leave them in the cats.

- Now remove your catalytic converters using the same 15mm wrench. You may need some extensions, and definitely a lot of oomph to get these off. Try pb blasting again if your having trouble. I was able to get my driver side off, but left the passenger cat attached to the header and removed without a problem (later separated by benzo torch)



Now we can go back into the engine bay…

Throw a blanket or fender mat over your fender for whichever side you are working on. You don’t want your clothes scuffing/scratching your paint while your upgrading your car. Might also need a small stepping stool (or if your like TS|S, a ladder).


-Remove the 10 bolts from the coil pack assembly (5 on each side) using a 10mm deep socket or ratcheting wrench (99-02 cars, 98 cars will have to remove them one by one) . They look like a basic 10mm bolt with a long point top. You will start thinking how easy this is, but when you hit the 5th bolt, they get pretty unpleasant. You don’t have to put that one back when you’re done. Driver side had an extra bolt holding my AIR provision piece in place also. Also, remove the wiring harness before removing.
I’ve previously done a spark plug install and did NOT put the #5 back one back onto the coil packs. Made life much easier for this install.


-Remove dipstick tube by unbolting 15mm bolt that holds the bracket to the head. Before just lifting it out, go back under and follow the tube down to know how it sits in the block for reinstall later.


Time for the dreaded spark plug removal. At this point, this should be super easy with the exhaust and emissions removed. (pic is removing #8)


- Remove the spark plug wires using the 5/8’s plug socket. With everything removed you should be able to get all eight from either the top or bottom with basic ratchet, socket and a single extension. (DAMN… It wasn’t that easy my first time).


- Hopefully you have a friend handy now. Remove the six header bolts 10mm carefully and you can slide the header down and out. Take the gasket and bolts and put them somewhere safely if you plan on reusing.

You should now have all of your old crap out and those shiny parts that have been calling to you can come out of the corner now.


- OPTIONAL - If you plan on doing motor mounts, now would be the time. Go find that thread and come back here when you’re done.

Using new gasket and header bolts or reusing stockers go to the next step.

- The passenger side header should slide in with minimal effort. You will either want a jack or a friend holding the header steady while you line up the gasket and put in the bolts. Rethread the bolts starting in the center and work your way out evenly. Torque to 11 ft lbs starting in the center and work your way out evenly. Then go back over at 18 ft lbs. Don’t forget ant seize



Driver side can be quite a bit more effort

- Gently slide it the header up and keep an eye for clearances. If god has blessed you, it will slide in. If your mortal like the rest of us, you will need to take some additional steps. Find where the problem is and the following are the typical solutions I’ve heard of.:
- With the new motor mounts, the problem may be solved
- Some will remove the DS motor mount bolts and slightly jack the motor to allow the header to slide in.
- Some remove the Trans mount bolt and lift the rear of the trans up and the header slides right in (automatic cars?)
- Some have had to grind the K-member back slightly
- Massaging the firewall
- Some have had to Remove oil pan drain plug and oil filter

Mine was catching on the firewall and K member. I tried “massaging the firewall slightly where it was catching. I still had an issue and shaved the K-member back slightly and after another test fitting hammered back a lip that was catching the back tab on the firewall. Header went in without any more grief.

- Same as passenger side. Slide in and line up the gasket, work from center out and torque to 11 ft lbs then 18 ft lbs. Don’t forget ant seize


- Reinstall your existing or new spark plugs now and snug up. Don’t forget ant seize

- Put your stock or new wires onto the plugs
- Reinstall your AIR provisions or install the block off plates now.

- Put your coil packs back on and snug up bolts Remember that #5 bolt? Put him in a Ziploc back and keep with all your other T/A keepsakes for a rainy day. Then reattach the plug wires to the coils. For first two days I only put two of the bolts on because I was going to pull and recheck all my bolts.

- Go back under your car and either put the stock 02’s with extension or corvette 02’s on now.

- OPTIONAL – start up the car and giggle like a little girl…..

- Y-pipe install might vary, but basically test fit and then install. Leave everything loose until you have it how you like. Then tighten everything back up. (check out the difference between stock and TSP


- OPTIONAL – finish removing AIR System

- Go back over and make sure that you have reattached all your wiring harness (around coil packs, 02’s)

Time for a tune now!!!

Contributors
THANKS,
01ws6er
Noscamaro
02transamce
patrik

Special Thanks to the arborbarbor!!! Great guy

[Faught]

any 1 got tips on getting the y pipe bolts off the exhaust manifolds? i could not get them suckers off w/ an breaker bar or an impact wrench, sprayed em down with some break free, and even tried wd40.

[Cutlass]

I believe I snapped more then half of mine when I did my removed my stock setup.

[bberretta]

Spray the bolts down with PB Blaster and let it soak. Mine came right off. If that doesn't work, get a torch and heat them up. If that doesn't work, cut the SOB's off- you don't need to reuse them anyway!

[Faught]

cool thx ill try it

[JoshuaGrooms83]

Also, i recommended this in my own how to install for OBX headers, after jacking the car up, soak em in PB blaster over night, then in the morning of, spray em again and then warm the car up for about 5 or ten minutes. the amount of tim eit would take for you to walk to you fridgeand get a beer or a cup of coffee then shut it off. the heat helps loosen the bolts a bit and makes for working on other parts easier. warm bolts are easier the stone cold ones helped me. I only snapped off two on my cat to manifold bolts and accually used then bolt my y pipe to the Y-pipe mounting bracket

[Truspeed]

when i did mine i slid them in from the top but i did it in a parking lot by my self.

[fbodyNATION]

Nice write up we needed that info

[hippiespace]

Dude this thread is extremely helpful. I am putting BBK LT headers on my car as soon as I get the last few small parts together. My question for you is about the EGR block off plate I see where they need to go is there any kind of plug I can put in the threaded union where the tube transfers to metal. I would prefer not to have those hoses hanging free over the new headers and I am not sure where the air block off is needed.
Thanks again for posting this thread and any additional help.

[Cutlass]

What you do is get a set of block off plates like this, bolt them to the manifolds or headers, and remove all the hoses/pipes for the AIR and EGR

[hippiespace]

Thanks... after much research the past couple of hours I found out that 2002 models don't have an EGR (I got a little confused when I couldn't find it) so I just need to take out the air system and the new headers don't have EGR connections on them so I should be all good

[bberretta]

Did you get headers without the EGR and AIR connections? If you did you're okay, otherwise you'll need the block-off plates for the holes in the headers.

[hippiespace]

The headers I bought have no EGR or AIR connection. I'm just waiting for a few small parts to come so I can put the headers and cut outs on. The anticipation is killing me I can't wait to hear my baby pur.