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sending unit problem

This is a discussion on sending unit problem within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; i recently tubed up a new sending unit off of the original sending unit port to run an aftermarket digital ...

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Angry sending unit problem

    i recently tubed up a new sending unit off of the original sending unit port to run an aftermarket digital guage. with all the plumbing and splicing complete, and everything grounded out, the digital guage works, but with the original guages single wire hooked up, it pegs out and doesnt get a reading. we back tracked our steps disconnected everything and hooked the original guage up to the new sending unit stand alone, it worked when we pushed compressed air through the unit, but once again, when hooked up, the needle pegs all the way out, when grounded, it throws the needle to zero, but still wont get a reading. any suggeastions? the digital guage works, but i would like to still have the original guage working.

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Im not understanding what your saying you did. Do you have a seperate sender for the aftermarket guage? Things go alot easier for oil pressure guages using a sandwich adaptor for the oil filter. Check out the Tech sticky's in the General Help section, I explained how I did the oil pressure guage there. Im not grasping how you hooked everything up.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    good call, never even heard of that, deffinetly would have saved me some heartache. we fabbed up our own fittings and piping to use the stock OPSU port and relocate a new sending unit. but, we wernt able to keep the stock guage working, i think im going to take everything back apart and do it with the sandwich addapter.....

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    There is a spot above the oil filter that can be tapped out for your digital sensor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PFM View Post
    There is a spot above the oil filter that can be tapped out for your digital sensor.
    Yes, that is also a possibility. But, being it aluminum you have to be careful with NPT threads. The sandwich adaptor is cheap and easy, it also gives you a spot for a oil temperature gauge later if you want.


    OP, sounds like you are simply getting a reading from only your new sending unit. Somewhere along the way of making your own fitting, it was messed up. GL with whatever route you choose.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    yea, im going to hook the stock connecter back up and just order the adapter, it was nice fabbing up my own fittings and bracket, but its not working like i planned, might as well do it the right way...ha

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    yea, im going to hook the stock connecter back up and just order the adapter, it was nice fabbing up my own fittings and bracket, but its not working like i planned, might as well do it the right way...ha
    Well, theres many ways of going about it... as you have seen. But something didnt go correctly. I believe I posted the PN to all the adaptors I used, let me know if you have any questions.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Well, theres many ways of going about it... as you have seen. But something didnt go correctly. I believe I posted the PN to all the adaptors I used, let me know if you have any questions.
    will i have any problems with long tube headers using that sandwich sandwich adapter?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    will i have any problems with long tube headers using that sandwich sandwich adapter?
    No, I have Kooks 1 7/8's and had plenty of room. Run your wiring in plastic loom, then down the exsisting wiring that runs down by your DS header. There is a exsisting clip to zip tie and get the wiring away from the header. There are also four 1/8 NPT ports to choose from, so you can angle how you want it. I see if I have any pictures if you want.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    pics would be nice. and does it come with caps over the ports i wont be using? also, do i need to buy another sending unit to work with the adapter or can i use the one i have now?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    pics would be nice. and does it come with caps over the ports i wont be using? also, do i need to buy another sending unit to work with the adapter or can i use the one i have now?
    Yes, it comes with NPT 1/8" plugs for the un-used ports. Most aftermarket sending units are 1/8 male NPT threads, are yours not? You need to put Teflon sealant on the threads of all plugs and senders.

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    Check this thread out if you have not already. There are a few pictures in here, I probably have more if I dug around some memory cards. This should give you a good idea on the process, its really easy. Takes a few minutes to install, compared to removing the filter housing, drilling, tapping, installing, cost of taps, drill bits, and possibility of screwing it up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Check this thread out if you have not already. There are a few pictures in here, I probably have more if I dug around some memory cards. This should give you a good idea on the process, its really easy. Takes a few minutes to install, compared to removing the filter housing, drilling, tapping, installing, cost of taps, drill bits, and possibility of screwing it up.
    what thread?

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    Quote Originally Posted by joedude02 View Post
    what thread?
    Oops sorry I copied and didnt paste.

    How to install gauges - Write up

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Oops sorry I copied and didnt paste.

    How to install gauges - Write up
    when you attatch the fitting on the end of the fuel rail to run a new fuel line for the sending unit, do you just take the original shradder valve out? would it be worth it to get a T fitting to keep the valve on one end, and run the sending unit off the other?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    when you attatch the fitting on the end of the fuel rail to run a new fuel line for the sending unit, do you just take the original shradder valve out? would it be worth it to get a T fitting to keep the valve on one end, and run the sending unit off the other?
    Yes, you have to remove the shrader valve. You can rig up your fittings however you want really. The main thing is, you want to keep as little amount of wieght on the end of the fuel rail as possible.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    yea, im hooking a hose to it and mounting the sending unit on the firewall. should be good right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    yea, im hooking a hose to it and mounting the sending unit on the firewall. should be good right?
    I would think. Just cant leak. The sender needs to me immersed I believe 3mm in whatever fluid its in. I dont know if it will be a problem having the fuel traveling that far(down the hose), only to get to a sender. Never seen that done before.



    I know for a fact the way I have it in that photo works great. Food for thought.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    your sending unit is attatched directly to the fuel rail via. an adapter right? then you just wrapped the wire and ran it seperetly. the sending unit they sent me seems a little big, thats why i was worried about putting it right on the rail...

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    your sending unit is attatched directly to the fuel rail via. an adapter right? then you just wrapped the wire and ran it seperetly. the sending unit they sent me seems a little big, thats why i was worried about putting it right on the rail...
    Yea, I have everything on the end of the rail. It can be a trail and error process, try your way, if it works... well good. Any weight saved off the end of the rail is a good thing.

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