Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 30 of 30
Like Tree1Likes

Engine noise...new engine maybe??

This is a discussion on Engine noise...new engine maybe?? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; These are the images...

  1. #21
    Renns badboy10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Eagle Pass, Austin TX
    Age
    27
    Posts
    83

    Pewter
    2002 Camaro SS

    These are the images
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #22
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Paterson/Ridgewood, NJ
    Posts
    11,474

    Phantom Black Metallic
    2004 GTO M6

    Ouch!! That's what I was talking about. You could search your local junkyard for a used LS1 or do what other members here have done...go with an LQ4/9 block. Similar to the LS but iron. Your intake manifold and accessories(alternator, air con/brackets) will bolt to the LQ just fine. Others will chime in here to help out some more.

  3. #23
    Renns badboy10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Eagle Pass, Austin TX
    Age
    27
    Posts
    83

    Pewter
    2002 Camaro SS

    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Ouch!! That's what I was talking about. You could search your local junkyard for a used LS1 or do what other members here have done...go with an LQ4/9 block. Similar to the LS but iron. Your intake manifold and accessories(alternator, air con/brackets) will bolt to the LQ just fine. Others will chime in here to help out some more.
    Thx for your info. I found one for 2200 shipped plus install. How much would I be looking at four that block? Good and Bads about it?

  4. #24
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Paterson/Ridgewood, NJ
    Posts
    11,474

    Phantom Black Metallic
    2004 GTO M6

    I haven't heard anything bad about the LQ blocks. More durable than the LS when it comes to adding nitrous or boost. Can be bored/stroked as well. Your old block is worthless with that crack in it.

  5. #25
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Paterson/Ridgewood, NJ
    Posts
    11,474

    Phantom Black Metallic
    2004 GTO M6

    An LQ block can be had for less than a grand I believe. I could be wrong.

  6. #26
    Renns badboy10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Eagle Pass, Austin TX
    Age
    27
    Posts
    83

    Pewter
    2002 Camaro SS

    Ill look into that then. To fully built the motor back with the block should be less than a new motor or what you think?

  7. #27
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Paterson/Ridgewood, NJ
    Posts
    11,474

    Phantom Black Metallic
    2004 GTO M6

    I would just swap the intake manifold and the accessories onto the LQ block and drop it in. Remember, you have a choice of 5.3 or 6.0 if I'm correct.

  8. #28
    Renns badboy10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Eagle Pass, Austin TX
    Age
    27
    Posts
    83

    Pewter
    2002 Camaro SS

    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    I would just swap the intake manifold and the accessories onto the LQ block and drop it in. Remember, you have a choice of 5.3 or 6.0 if I'm correct.
    Would internals still be good by what you saw or need to get new internals?

  9. #29
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I'm currently in the process of build my 6 liter.

    There's some more to it then just swapping over. There are pros and cons to this like every build. For iron blocks it's added weight. Here are some highlights.

    You need to look for specific years to make it an easy swap.

    The LQ4 or 9's are what you are looking for. The 9 is preferred because it comes with flat top pistons while the -4 comes is dish. The difference between the 2 is the -9 has compression around 10:4.1 while the -4 is 9:5.1. More compression = more HP. Now if you are building a FI build you want the -4 pistons because it helps in boost applications.

    Ideal yrs for -4 are 00-04. The reason is the crank is the same exact size as the LS1. In the pre 99 yrs the crank is a little bit longer. And more importantly the reluctor wheel is 24x in those yrs, after 04 it is 58x. If you get a 58x you have 3 choices. (1) swap your crank (if still good) over, (2) remove and press on the 24x wheel off the LS1 crank (only need to do this if the LS1 crank is trash), or (3) you can get a converter box that goes from 58x to 24x. Cost a bit and adds one more electrical thing that can go wrong.

    Yes everything on the LS1 can swap over minus the pistons. For the post 04' yrs they are all -9's and you have the reluctor wheel issue.

    Now in regards to bumping the compression up for the -4's you can do like me and get a set of flat top pistons. You will need to have a shop balance the crank and pistons.


    Like Rich said, with iron blocks they handle boost much better. Where Aluminum blocks run 3-8 lbs boost, iron blocks can handle 23-28 lbs (other things needed to do this). Common builds over stock are 370, 402, & 408 ci. Each has it's pros and cons. It comes down to how much you want to spend.


    Jodi just finish rebuilding her's and it's almost identical to mine. She dyno just a hair under 450 to the wheels. When she upgrades the injectors to 42 lbs and installs a Racetronix FP she'll get some better numbers. I have those so when mine gets finish I'll compare the builds.


    In my signature is my 6 liter build, If you want you can click on and ask me anything.

    Ohh and I picked up my 6 liter short block for $325. I found out later why. #8 piston was bent, looks like it was hydro-locked. Most long blocks I've seen go for around $900-$1200.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  10. #30
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Your old block is worthless with that crack in it.
    Mine became someone's coffee table, no joking.


    I got $50 for a blown block.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Engine noise
    By Darkrider02 in forum General Help
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-07-2011, 11:23 AM
  2. Help: engine noise
    By Turbo88 in forum General Help
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-27-2009, 03:30 AM
  3. Help: new engine noise
    By TimMc in forum General Help
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-19-2008, 05:45 AM
  4. Engine Noise Help
    By kool-aide in forum Internal Engine
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 08-31-2007, 03:43 PM
  5. engine noise
    By slugtrails in forum General Help
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-21-2007, 07:45 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •