How hard of a launch...

[the_husk]

Will the stock rear/suspension take. I know on the F-bodies, it wont take much before the rear breaks. I was wondering, since this is an independent rear suspension, can it take any harder of a launch than the f-bodies, or about the same?

Thanks

[LS2Tuner]

Your ? is too general.

Are we speaking about on the street or the track?

Regular tires or drag radials?

I went 1.55 60 fts ALL day on a 17" drag radial in my A4 Goat with STOCK TQ con. Yes they can hook very well.

[the_husk]

Your ? is too general.

Are we speaking about on the street or the track?

Regular tires or drag radials?

I went 1.55 60 fts ALL day on a 17" drag radial in my A4 Goat with STOCK TQ con. Yes they can hook very well.

Sorry about that.

It would be at the track on regular tires. If I do get drag radials, would that affect it any?

[LS2Tuner]

Yes they offer more weight transfer than the F-body's. Every car is different.

The NUMBER 1 mistake that most make with regular street tires is driving through the water box and doing a burnout. STREET TIRES DON'T LIKE HEAT!
The most they need is a lite hazing just to clean them off and add a slight amount of heat. Also it will help to let out some air. I have not seen a regular radial that ever hooked up better with less than 22psi. Your best to see what is going to be the best tread contact for your street tires is to find a nice concrete parking lot. O'h yeah invest in a good tire gauge first. The cheapy ones from Autozone and Checker's are in accurate. Depending on how tall of tire it is start with your regular pressure and do a slight burnout. Now get out of the car and look at the contact patch with the road. If it is darker in the center. Let out a couple to few pounds and repeat. Once you'll get to a point where the outside edge's will be darker than the center you now know you went to low and are loosing tread contact in the middle.

If you watch some of the fast cars at your track you'll see most will go to the better lane. Now you know which stagging lane to enter.

I found my Goat on stocks hooked better with "shocking it" going from a dead idle to the floor rather than trying to bring it up on the converter at all.

[Sarge]

All of LS2Tuner said plus.....I put down 600+ to the rear wheels....of course I have upgraded the shit out of the transmission/stall/driveshaft/springs/shocks/bushings....but still have bone stock axles and stubs....1.4's/1.5's all day long....and yes....as stated above...stay the hell out of the water!

[the_husk]

All of LS2Tuner said plus.....I put down 600+ to the rear wheels....of course I have upgraded the shit out of the transmission/stall/driveshaft/springs/shocks/bushings....but still have bone stock axles and stubs....1.4's/1.5's all day long....and yes....as stated above...stay the hell out of the water!

I made a grave mistake, I forgot to tell ya'll that its an M6 car. I do know to stay out of the water, unless they are slicks. What I'm getting at is will the axles and suspension take a dumped clutch at 2500-3000 rpms if the tires can hold it?

[Sarge]

M6's have issues with the stubs candy canning ( twisting) after multiple hard launches and are upgrading with the BMR stubs....

[Tide]

Speaking from personal experience, the rear end is quite solid. Mine has endured over 150+ passes at the strip on DR's with a 3000-3200 RPM side step, feathering it, you name it. This also includes the 'stress' of heating them up prior to staging.

It's also had more than its fair share of 4000 RPM 2nd gear burn outs on streets.

The one mod I've made to the rear end was replacing the craptastic 2 piece drive shaft. The originals rubber isolators were gone in mine.

[sappy96]

the 2 piece design isn't a bad one. The stock just isn't made for that kind of power.
Bird of Prey started to manufacture several HD two piece shafts