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Thread: Problem with SFC's
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01-11-2009, 10:06 PM #1
Problem with SFC's
I got some UMI 3 point SFC's and ive had them sitting in the box for a while and when i finally go to put them on my passenger side wont align with the holes my driver side went in without a problem. I started from the LCA's and then the tunnel brace but when i got to put in bolts its hitting the subframe and i cant get them in what should i do and if i put the front on the tunnelbrace holes dont align
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01-11-2009, 10:42 PM #2
How much are the holes out of alignment? 1/8 inch 1/4 inch 1/2 inch?
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01-11-2009, 11:06 PM #3
not sure cause i think 1/8 or 1/4 i was thinking that if i cant get them in i should just dremmel in some notches and then just put them up
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01-12-2009, 12:39 AM #4
In the past, I have put a punch in one hole and pry the other hole into alignment, start that bolt, take the punch out and start the second.
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01-12-2009, 12:41 AM #5
thank you for the idea i didnt really like the idea of grinding the SF and ill try that but is it really good for the bolts in the center for the tunnel brace cause i dont want it to mess something up
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01-12-2009, 01:23 AM #6
If it's only a 1/4 inch or so I wouldn't think twice about it. The cars settle over time and production variances cause minor misalignments like this.
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01-12-2009, 02:18 AM #7
cool i guess ill try to get the other side its bolted on the LCA and tunnel brace all i gotta do now is get a punch and pry it but im gonna check to make sure its only about a 1/4 inch before i do it otherwise ill take a notch out thanx again
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01-12-2009, 05:18 AM #8
Did ya leave everything loose, until the final bolt is in place?
When I had installed my SLP SFC's, I had done a lot of research & had found that many times other people claimed they had the same problem.
A little bit of grinding or drilling, here or there is quite common.
But I'd make sure all of your bolts are loose, & wrestle them around as close as possible before getting the drill or Dremel out.
I think they all require a 'loaded suspension', whether they are bolt-on or weld-on.Last edited by PontiacFan; 01-12-2009 at 12:15 PM.
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01-12-2009, 06:11 AM #9
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
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- Minnesota
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- 196
pewter- 2002 Tans am WS6 M6
Same problem when I did mine. I just left all the bolts loose untill they are all in. Then just turn in each one evenly just till its about to be tourqued, then tourque. Had to align them with a punch
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01-12-2009, 07:41 AM #10
yeah they are all loose i didnt tighten anything yet
ill be working on it this weekend so hopefully i can get them in and drive my trans am
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01-12-2009, 11:03 AM #11
is the car on a lift, jackstands, or ramps? I know on weld in sfc's you want the suspension loaded when welding them into place. Perhaps if yours is unloaded that could be keeping those from lining up due to the car flexing on the stands.
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01-12-2009, 03:07 PM #12
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01-12-2009, 04:11 PM #13
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01-12-2009, 04:43 PM #14
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01-12-2009, 05:15 PM #15
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- San Antonio
- Age
- 52
- Posts
- 289
Silver & Black- 99 Camaro SS
Yeah, I'd like to know how the Hell you got under there?
I'd be tempted to try loading the car differently. Different inclines, a couple of boards (side by side) under different tire combinations.
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01-12-2009, 08:28 PM #16
well i had half of it on the road the other on the curb still not much room to work with i just didnt have 4 jack stands and couldnt lift up the front to put the jacks under the a arms so it was on the ground lol loaded suspension
driver side fit like a glove just problems with the passenger side
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01-12-2009, 09:49 PM #17
I bet that's your problem, the car is all twisted up on the curb like that and that's why it's not lining up correctly.
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01-13-2009, 03:37 AM #18
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- San Antonio
- Age
- 52
- Posts
- 289
Silver & Black- 99 Camaro SS
Yes, that is the problem. Your car is doing what it is designed to do. Sub frames have to flex to live, the SFC's just tighten up and strengthen.
4 - 2x4's and some screws are pretty cheap.
.....A............B............C................D. .......
---19"------20.5"-----27.5"--------29"-----
|_______\_______|__________\__________|
---20.5"-----19"-------29"---------27.5"---
Cutting a 2x4 with 2 -45 degree cuts and 1 straight cut. Screw A on top of C, B to D.
You get a 7" deck on the first level so you drive over 1.5" at a time.
This way 1 2x4 gives you one 3-inch ramp, cause you need them 2 wide. The easy way to join these side-by-side is nail plates (the ones they use on trusses.)
3 inches only let's me get to the exhaust. So I have to double this to substantial working room.
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