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Thread: underdrive pulleys?
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04-07-2010, 04:11 PM #1
underdrive pulleys?
Ok i know underdrive pulleys give you like 10 extra horses but what do they harm? Maybe i read it wrong but doesnt it cut down on ur electronics and ur A/C. And living in south central TX a/c is a big concern for me with charcoal leather.
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04-07-2010, 04:49 PM #2
To be honest the Gains arent that big, not enough to justify the price. Although unless your running and massive sound system you dont have to worry about Alt output.
J2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....
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04-07-2010, 05:01 PM #3
well i wouldnt say its massive,alpine type S components the whole way around and im gonna get the mtx custum box for the back, the amp is 74X4 and 300X1
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04-07-2010, 06:07 PM #4
I have the ASp underdrive pulley with a overdrive alt. pulley. No problems here. Did get rid of my dying alt for a 220 amp powerbastards model it looks stock and fit like stock and works great with my red top.
1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
02 Trailblazer -Sold
09 Ram 1500 CC - Sold
09 Cobalt SS/TC - Sold
13 ram 1500 LoneStar CC 4x4 - Magnaflow, K&N,and more to come-DD/Toy
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04-08-2010, 02:11 PM #5
by red top do u mean your optima?
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04-12-2010, 10:04 AM #6
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04-13-2010, 09:08 PM #7
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
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Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
I have an ASP pulley. They free up some HP, but I honestly would not do one, unless you were doing a cam install. You don't see enough gains to really do it alone, not for the money you spend anyways. Now if you are doing a cam install, you already have the stocker off, might as well throw one on then.
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04-13-2010, 09:35 PM #8
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04-13-2010, 09:43 PM #9
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Broken Arrow, OK
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- 23,345
Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
The info I am pulling comes straight from this link:
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
"On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in. The starter is held in by 2 13mm bolts for 99+ models or 2 15mm bolts for 98 models and is on the bottom rear passenger side of the engine. You can leave the wires attached.
Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.
Now install your 3 arm pulley puller, mounting the hooks of the three arms on the inner part of the stock pulley. If you already have an underdrive pulley on there, either pull it off using a 3 screw type puller, or be VERY careful and grab onto a lip of the underdrive pulley (on the f-body ASP pulley there is a ridge half way back that can be pulled on safely with a 3 arm puller). Keeping the pulley puller arms all secure and aligned, begin to tighten the bolt on the puller and crank on it until the pulley either comes loose, or hits the head of your crank bolt. If it hits the head of your crankbolt, loosen the pulley puller, unturn the bolt 1-2 turns, and re-try it again. The key when you back your crank bolt out more, you are putting MORE stress on less and less of the threads...however, towards the end of pulley removal it will come off easier and easier so the stress isn't enough to damage the crankshaft threads.
If you get the pulley as far off as it'll come without totally removing the crankbolt and the pulley is still firmly on there, give it a good tug or a tap with a rubber mallet...it should be hanging on by just a hair at this point. If you have the longer crank bolt, this won't be an issue."
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04-13-2010, 09:47 PM #10
how long did yours take you to do?
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04-13-2010, 09:54 PM #11
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04-13-2010, 10:24 PM #12
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04-14-2010, 08:21 AM #13
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04-15-2010, 10:08 AM #14
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- Minnesota
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pewter- 2002 Tans am WS6 M6
I personally would not do it either. To each his own but IMO its just not worth it, the gains are so minimal with an elevated risk and cost. Just like any mode the car is not designed to be with these parts. Now that with a judgment call. I have aftermarket parts on mine but Im not interested in pully's.
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04-15-2010, 10:19 AM #15
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04-15-2010, 10:34 AM #16
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04-15-2010, 11:44 AM #17
I had my EWP and underdrive pulley done at the same time. I did notice some more power but I think that the biggest difference is not that it frees up alot of horse power but it does let your car rev faster and get into the power band quicker.
As for just doing the underdrive pulley I would not do one just on its own. I would wait till you go to install a cam if you are.
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04-17-2010, 05:46 AM #18
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04-17-2010, 12:54 PM #19
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04-17-2010, 01:30 PM #20
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