Results 1 to 20 of 31
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11-12-2017, 02:18 PM #1
Throttle body improvements & misc.
Looking to gather some more stuff over winter hopefully.
'00 WS6 m6, not daily driven, 102k mi, all stock aside of GMMG catback, suspension, and SLP lid/smooth bellow.
So i'm hoping that over winter this will be what I get done with my car. I have used GTP longtubes on stand by, and a new TSP 3" OR/Y that was free with them ( currently trying to score a used Kooks 3" OR/Y for a good deal on Facebook, and gonna sell the TSP. Read that Kooks fits QTP better & QTP are a replica of Kooks ). Once that all goes in, I have the good copper plugs, MSD wires, an LS6 intake w/ new seals, and prothane engine mounts ready for install.
While torn apart, i'm looking for what is worth replacing or what is necessary along with this project. Was thinking about trying to have the stock 78mm throttle body port and polished to 85mm. Not looking to buy a replacement 90mm or anything like that, figuring in on the LS6 intake and not buying a pricey Fast Perf one. Not considering trying to P&P it myself either. But unaware of the cost of P&P, is it worth it do P&P a stock TB? Or is there an aftermarket one worth buying for a few bucks more? I have heard of 5 rwhp gains on a stock P&P, but an aftermarket P&P throttle body seems to be around $150. Looks like the avg cost is around $70 for P&P.
Also was planning to swap the LS1 fuel rails/injectors over to the LS6. Should I order larger injectors? I would be looking to do a mail-order tune after it all as heads/cam would be a distant future goal ( like after a rear end and transmission upgrade goal ) but if injectors should be upgraded here, would certainly like do it correct the first time until future head/cam work.
And lastly, my research has concluded that oil pump and timing chain can be left alone until attention is either needed, or until the car is cammed. That good? And I believe I would want to do a P&P LS6 oil pump & LS6 timing chain. That the right way to go?
I'm looking up MAF stuff currently, some folks de-screen them. Mentally I don't like the idea of that. Would that be ok to do to my non daily driven car? I still enjoy the car on the road in the summer months but I can't imagine anything thick would get past the air filter.
Tried some research before asking, but always like reassurance, suggestions, and the changing times & new parts out there is always worth an asking. Thanks!Last edited by DarrenWS6; 11-12-2017 at 02:37 PM.
2000 Trans Am WS.6 M6
SLP lid & bellow w/ K&N, GMMG catback w/ Corsa Clones, UMI SFC, UMI Adj. Panhard, UMI Adj. TQ arm w/ relocation kit, QTP Longtube headers ORY, LS6 intake, EGR/A.I.R delete.
Eibach prokit, Bilstein HDs, Nitto NT555s, skip shift elim, whiteface overlays, 20% tint, matte black decal/overlays
YouTube.com/DarrenWS6
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11-14-2017, 11:27 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,785
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
While torn apart, i'm looking for what is worth replacing or what is necessary along with this project. Was thinking about trying to have the stock 78mm throttle body port and polished to 85mm. Not looking to buy a replacement 90mm or anything like that, figuring in on the LS6 intake and not buying a pricey Fast Perf one. Not considering trying to P&P it myself either. But unaware of the cost of P&P, is it worth it do P&P a stock TB? Or is there an aftermarket one worth buying for a few bucks more? I have heard of 5 rwhp gains on a stock P&P, but an aftermarket P&P throttle body seems to be around $150. Looks like the avg cost is around $70 for P&P.
Also was planning to swap the LS1 fuel rails/injectors over to the LS6. Should I order larger injectors?
I would be looking to do a mail-order tune after it all as heads/cam would be a distant future goal
( like after a rear end and transmission upgrade goal ) but if injectors should be upgraded here, would certainly like do it correct the first time until future head/cam work.
LS2 timing chain and call it done. Double rollers are a PITA to install and I wouldn't go that route unless I was boosted or high Nitrous/C.I. build. Now there is a timing chain dampner from Trick flow that would be worth the $45 to install. Do all 3 at the same time if you decided to cam it.
I'm looking up MAF stuff currently, some folks de-screen them. Mentally I don't like the idea of that. Would that be ok to do to my non daily driven car? I still enjoy the car on the road in the summer months but I can't imagine anything thick would get past the air filter.
Anything else feel free to ask. It's what we're here for.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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11-14-2017, 04:53 PM #3
And on the 8th day, the Lord said, "Don't mess with the MAF!"
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11-16-2017, 06:13 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,785
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Unless you go with a Speed Density Tune.
I really need to think of a way of inserting a screen after the air filter.
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11-17-2017, 03:07 AM #5
Screen after the air filter... pourquoi?
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11-17-2017, 10:06 AM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,785
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
So much crap on the roads that I don't quite trust a paper filter. And with me having a SD tune I have no MAF.
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11-18-2017, 04:52 PM #7
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- High Point NC
- Posts
- 70
MGM- Pontiac G8 GT & 99 Z28 6M
Just took my lid off to install a smooth bellows, maf screen had trash all on it. My SLP lid did not have a weatherstripping seal on it maybe trash got in that way maybe not but it's fixed now. Don't mess with the screen it's unnecessary.
Please keep us informed as to who you get the throttle body ported by, I'll be in line right behind you.87 GN 7.75 1/8th @ 90MPH-SOLD
88 GTA AL driveshaft 350 TPI Auto 9.2 76mph
08 G8 GT 7.88 1/8TH 93MPH
99 Z28 SLP Lid Magnaflow Cat Back Hurst Shifter Tuned by Frost BMR LCA
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11-20-2017, 03:18 AM #8
To clarify my post, we don't recommend messing with the MAF (ie. de-screen, de-blade, or port) as it is a calibrated sensor. Anything done to the MAF in the name of increasing air flow is simply going to throw off its calibration and result in actual airflow being incorrectly reported to the PCM.
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11-26-2017, 05:05 PM #9
Sounds good guys, thank you for the lengthy responses SMWS6TA. Greatly appreciated.
Currently just stored it in PaJeff's automotive storage lair this afternoon. Felt good to drive it since I believe it has been nearly a month. I forgot to record my mileage before pulling the battery but I believe I put no more than 3,000 miles on it this year. Perhaps soon I can get it on a cheaper insurance plan for restricted mileage if I can tame myself to not drive it a ton.
Over thanksgiving a couple cool things happened. I decided I hated the style and merge of the TSP Y pipe, sold it for $100 on Facebook surprisingly fast. Called up Maryland Speed since they have the best advertised price on the Kooks OR/Y ( $316 shipped free ). That is the included the discount from Kooks ( 20% ) black Friday deal, and I got off more from Maryland Speed ( Black Friday discount ) so it was $280 out the door. Very pleased. It is the updated version with the improved merge design seen below.
Original design
6502S__6402S__40771.1371244521.1280.1280.jpg
New design
ls1_y-pipe_or_3.jpg
Reviews claim a much better sound from the smooth equal merge, and sound matters a lot to me. The rasp is quite strong with poor merges.
And the next part was on a facebook parts page a person was doing a part-out on a salvage car, I was able to get the power antenna assembly for $50 cash and it was 15 minutes away from my family down in the Langhorne PA area. Couldn't have worked out any better. I installed it today right before prepping it for storage. Its nice to have a functioning antenna again.
Once the Y pipe comes in all I should need is a intermediate pipe which I will call up Madhammer/GMMG for, and the stage 8 studs. Otherwise I left most needed parts in the trunk of the car minus the headers. Looking forward to the wrenching!
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12-01-2017, 03:10 PM #10
Say the word. It'll be a solid weekend worth of thrashing.
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12-03-2017, 02:04 PM #11
Off topic somewhat. Looks like my Ford F-150 is jealous of the attention the Trans Am and Cobalt have been getting. Cobalt needs a CV axle, but my truck took it to a whole new level the other day...
Trans Am parts held off yet again
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12-04-2017, 04:13 AM #12
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Bel Air, Maryland
- Posts
- 1,719
Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
SLP Air Lid/Smooth Bellows
L76 6.0L block, PRC Ported 243 heads, Texas Speed 224R cam.
Kooks Emissions LT Headers/Catted Y pipe
NGK TR55 plugs
Magnaflow Cat-back
Spohn Front Upper Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Lower Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Sway Bar
UMI Rear Lower Control Arms/ Adjustable Panhard Rod
UMI Welded-on Two Piece Subframe Connectors
Factory C5 Z06 17x9.5 wheels w/ 285-40-17 Continental Extreme Contact Sports all the way around.
Dyno Dynamics dynoed @:
415 rwhp
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12-04-2017, 04:28 PM #13
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12-05-2017, 07:32 AM #14
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12-13-2017, 02:35 PM #15
It's been a great truck, and all of a sudden this. I don't have a code reader or means for code monitoring. So dealership it goes probably next week.
The catted Y is available with the new merge. To be honest, i'm not sure if they even produce the previous style these days.
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01-13-2018, 09:45 AM #16
I'm getting impatient with Maryland Speed... The order for the Y pipe has been processing since 11-20-17, and I ordered it 11-17-17. I sent an email 12-30-17 saying it had been 5 weeks and would like an update. I got a response 12-31-17 stating "We should have tracking next week sorry for the delay". Well, its 1-13-18 and still no Y pipe or even a tracking #. On Monday I will give it one last request and if nothing after a week or so, i'll put in a request to cancle my order, and do what I was going to do originally, see if Summit Racing will price match their shipped advertised price. Granted I will lose out on the black friday deal of $40 but this is just a tad ridiculous.
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01-13-2018, 09:55 AM #17
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- pa
- Posts
- 45
Plenty of people have had to wait much longer for a deal through them. Almost always on kooks products. Do a google search and you'll find them. I'm pretty sure from memory though that you can't just cancel your order without paying a pretty good canceling/restocking fee. So the $40 saved could lead to a $50 restocking fee and pay the full price somewhere else but actually get it. Good luck, I believe I remember reading someone waiting a year for their true dual kit.
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01-13-2018, 09:56 AM #18
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- High Point NC
- Posts
- 70
MGM- Pontiac G8 GT & 99 Z28 6M
Maryland buys in bulk from the dealer, that's how they get such good prices. Texas speed only gives them deals when they purchase let's say 20 from then. So if your number 1 in the order forfillment process then you wait the longest. If your #19 or 20 then you wait days. I've bought from them in the past and have felt your pain.
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01-13-2018, 10:47 AM #19
Good lord, well, son of a gun. Anyone want to buy some Kooks Y pipes from Maryland Speed?
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01-13-2018, 11:56 AM #20
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- pa
- Posts
- 45
4th gen y pipes are in real sort demand anymore. This could take a min.
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