I'm a Oil Junkie

**02z28ls1** · 09-26-2005, 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by GatorSS

Yeah! Nice stash!

Regarding cost, if someone uses an additive, what did it cost? Some of the stuff out there is pretty pricy. That way, if we see someone wasting a bunch of money on a gimmick marketing additive, we can inform them of it. Or, if someone wants to try to justify the expense for any one of the "miracle" additives...have at it!

How many of you use stuff like Slick 50, DuraLube, ZMAX, Restore, etc? C'mon, I know you're out there.

I have used a couple of different products over the years-I have a dune buggy that has an unrebuilt ancient swing-axle transmission that was shifting a little balky.I saw the Slick 50 manual trans additive and gave it a try.It made an immediate and very noticeable improvement in the ease of shifting that has lasted to this day-that was over 10 years ago!I have also used Restore in an old (63)GMC truck motor and it made a difference in blowby in the old boat anchor engine-but haven't used it since because it seems awfully expensive to use at every oil change and it leaks alot.But it did seem to work as advertised-thinking about using it again if I can slow down the leaks.............OK-Sarge-sorry guy-I think there's been a misunderstanding.I you look at your post#15 you state 500 miles-maybe you meant 5000miles? Then look back to my post #106 and you'll see me asking the original question which I took to being ignored but you apparently just overlooked.If you're getting the stuff tested and coming to these conclusions then that's evidence and not just something that you "heard". I change my Mobil One at around 3000 miles-usually when the oil life meter comes on. What do you think about the "oil life" system on the late model GMs?Have you had any testing done with regards to that?(Just changed my oil today BTW-used a Mobil One filter instead of the previous Fram because of your hatred of Fram).Thanks for the advice.

**Sarge** · 09-26-2005, 06:51 PM

Hey man...no harm at all....hell we are all gearheads aren't we?!
Yes I myself have challenged folks who made " claims" over at bitog.com on this very subject....only one has come back with a UOA that he posted...and it had the same results as mine.....does that mean Mobil 1 is bad...HELL NO....not at all...I consistently list it in my top 5.....between us...you know where people really screw up with LS1/2/6's? They put in like 20-50 racing oils into an engine with .007 bearing clearance.....how in the hell is that gonna lube those tight clearances...it ain't....folks get on my ass all the time for running Amsoil 0-30 in 106 Texas heat flat out...yes I have an oil cooler.....but still....I should be running a much thicker oil...bullshit.....my motor innards are pristine...my UOA's are damn near perfect....
And for the record...I have seen UOA's on Mobil 1 0-40 that after 2000 miles are low 30 weights....5-30 that are high 20's...but then if run longer intervals thicken back into their original grade.....so.....
And Lastly...yes some additives give a smoother running "feeling"....the problem is the deposits/foam etc. many of them produce far outweigh any "smoothness" they produce.....just my observation

I'm glad your here and we got a great group of gearheads.....
EDIT: Sorry forgot the oil life monitor question...Me personally? No...I don't trust em.....but that doesn't mean anything at all.....I don't trust the government to tell me what to do...the IRS....the Church.....nobody

Stubborn old cuss ain't I.....The very idea of algorithms dictating when my oil should be changed with no consideration to my driving conditions (or only statistical considerations)...just don't cut mustard with me.....I dunno....

**02z28ls1** · 09-26-2005, 07:06 PM

Yeah-you just touched on an important point-engines are designed to run certain weight oils because of bearing clearances.If you are monitoring your engine closely then you can experiment-otherwise stick with the recommendations(or somebody elses experiences with the same circumstances).I'll check the old swing axle for foaming next time I'm out "killing" myself offroad.

**GatorSS** · 09-26-2005, 09:37 PM

Great posts guys...keep 'em coming.

While we're waiting on some more oil additive opinions....

Any opinions on Schaeffer oils? http://www.schaefferoil.com/ A friend (a Porsche guy) claims it's a great oil, especially for high performance engines. I've not heard much about this brand and haven't really seen much written about it (I haven't really looked for it either). Like I've written before, I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 for quite a while (gonna try Amsoil next oil change).

Not that I'm even considering using Schaeffer, I just want to know if anybody has used it or knows something about it. After all, we're oil junkies here!

**Sarge** · 09-27-2005, 08:01 AM

Schaffer is damn good oil......no doubt...great UOA's and a very loyal following....

**GatorSS** · 09-27-2005, 08:44 AM

That's what my Porsche-driving friend and the guys at the local import shop he uses claim. I was told that this shop was the only local place that sold it. They were claiming that Schaeffer was the best oil on the market (salesman usually make claims that their stuff is the best). So, from those guys, and now from you, Sarge, I have a few good opinions of this oil. Of course, we'd all like to know of more opinions, good or bad.

Side note: When I followed my friend to the import shop (he wanted to show it to me and all the racing mods they do for imports--mostly German imports), they all had respect for my SS. They all commented on how powerful the LS1 is and that my car was the "best bang for the buck." They've evidently raced a few and said that while they've modded import cars that could beat the LS1 cars, it took at least twice as much money to do it.

**Sarge** · 09-27-2005, 09:09 AM

LS1 is tough to beat when it comes to return on investment....I see these " Internet Wars" all the time.....Cobra Vs. Ta and shit.....my humble observation and EXPERIANCE is this.....
I pay $30 grand for a 99 Cobra....put another $30 in it and am pushing a 900 RWHP.....best I can get for it in pristine condition is $40K....
I pay $28K for a new Goat...put $25K more into and am at 500RWHP....I get offered $50K for it as it sits...

BlackHawk T/A · 10-01-2005, 11:39 AM

<-- New Amsoil fan

Runs like a champ.

**Sarge** · 10-01-2005, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

<-- New Amsoil fan

Runs like a champ.

Stuff is great man...

**Rabbit** · 10-01-2005, 06:55 PM

Sorry this is way off subject but I'm just curious. Sarge who is in your avatar?

**GatorSS** · 10-02-2005, 05:48 AM

Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

<-- New Amsoil fan

Runs like a champ.

So, you just tried it, I presume? What improvements did you notice over your previous oil? What was your previous oil?

**Sarge** · 10-02-2005, 06:39 AM

Originally Posted by Rabbit

Sorry this is way off subject but I'm just curious. Sarge who is in your avatar?

Stevie Ray Vaughan

**Sarge** · 10-02-2005, 06:45 AM

Originally Posted by GatorSS

So, you just tried it, I presume? What improvements did you notice over your previous oil? What was your previous oil?

Mebbe I can help....he went from a Conoco/Fram configuration to a Amsoil 0-30/Purolator setup.......the "difference" is felt almost immediately.....I changed the oil/filter in one of my employees cars (an 04 GTO) Friday....from Mobil 5-30 AC/Delco filter.....to German Castrol 0-30/KN filter.....she felt the smoothness when she started the car....yesterday we detailed cars and she commented on her instant gas mileage readout...it had gone up 3 miles per gallon....and more importantly she swears her engine revs quicker.....she was amazed....but her Dad had taught her all oil is just oil and there is no difference....she doesn't listen to her Dad anymore when it comes to oil

BlackHawk T/A · 10-02-2005, 01:38 PM

That's right it was Conoco 10-30 and a FRAM filter from the previous owner's setup, I swapped it out for Amsoil 0-30 and a Purolator. It does run smoother now though I haven't tested gas mileage - I hadn't thought of it. However I filled the tank that same day and reset my trip OD (when doing the oil-change 15 sec hold) so i'll see how it did on the next fill-up.

Also swapped out the AC Delco battery (it was starting to get weak) to a new Optima red-top. Next is a coolant system flush and I should be ready for the winter...I imagine the cold-starting should be tons better than what it would have been without the oil/battery change.

**SeVeReDiStOrTiOn** · 10-02-2005, 11:37 PM

I just got my test kit from blackstone labs, it says to fill the tube with oil that is at running temp....WTF. How do you do that without getting burned? I'm probably just going to fill it after having it idle for a few minutes...that way I don't have to drain the pan then wait 2 hours to change the filter.

**Sarge** · 10-03-2005, 06:05 AM

Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn

I just got my test kit from blackstone labs, it says to fill the tube with oil that is at running temp....WTF. How do you do that without getting burned? I'm probably just going to fill it after having it idle for a few minutes...that way I don't have to drain the pan then wait 2 hours to change the filter.

I take my sample during an oil change. I drive the car and get it to operating temp....then up on the ramps.....get the sample bottle ready....I use gloves during oil changes....because yes the oil is hotter than hell

You always want to change oil when the engine and the oil is at operating temps...this insures you are getting all the oil from the top end and removing the maximum amount of debris and sediment...a cold engine has all this crap up in the top end and the oil is thick...thus preventing a complete drain....
Do not take your sample with the first few seconds of oil coming out....try and get your sample in the middle of the drain....this disallows the sediment in the bottom of the pan giving you fubarred readings......and on that note...I always flush with a cheap Dino oil to get all that sediment out of the bottom of the pan before putting in my Amsoil....

**GatorSS** · 10-03-2005, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by Sarge

I take my sample during an oil change. I drive the car and get it to operating temp....then up on the ramps.....get the sample bottle ready....I use gloves during oil changes....because yes the oil is hotter than hell

You always want to change oil when the engine and the oil is at operating temps...this insures you are getting all the oil from the top end and removing the maximum amount of debris and sediment...a cold engine has all this crap up in the top end and the oil is thick...thus preventing a complete drain....
Do not take your sample with the first few seconds of oil coming out....try and get your sample in the middle of the drain....this disallows the sediment in the bottom of the pan giving you fubarred readings......and on that note...I always flush with a cheap Dino oil to get all that sediment out of the bottom of the pan before putting in my Amsoil....

With how much cheap Dino oil do you flush?

Also, I'm ordering a case of the Amsoil S2000 0w30 today (and as a preferred customer for the better price). So, in a few days, I'll be changing the oil in the 2000 SS. I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 in all my LSX's. My other cars have recently been changed, so I'll wait until their next oil change interval before switching to Amsoil in them. That should give me plenty of time to see how well it does in the 2000 SS. Obviously, I am expecting it to do quite well. But, I'm wondering if I'll be able to notice an improvement right away?

**Sarge** · 10-03-2005, 02:46 PM

I use about half a quart of like Havoline or Valvoline...whatever is a buck a quart....I get a few quarts....BlackHawk just switched over...he is hearing different things now.....as many do....the cleaning does that.....it will go away...keep the filters changed...I recommend changing the filter after the first 1K-1.5K and just topping off...the amount of crap is unreal that Amsoil will clean out of your motor....

**GatorSS** · 10-03-2005, 10:44 PM

Thanks, Sarge. I'm looking forward to the change and how well it will clean and protect. Later, I plan to add the oil cooler and remote filter. I'd like to do the dual remote filter, but I'm wondering where to mount it? There's not much room. Worse case, I'll add the single remote and I'll at least have a much bigger filter than stock.