Whats nitrous like?

[juiced99ws6]

I know you know your stuff Tuner so dont think im pickign a fight with you, just adding some things into the mix (I didnt want it to come out the wrong way)

If you dial in your suspension right to handle the power and throw a progressive controller/ window switch into the mix then after a couple of passes you would not need to worry about pulsing anything. Your nitrous will ease its way up to full power just as a supercharger would and you can make sure to leave just enough out to where you will not be breaking traction and will then have the most consistant worry free nitrous setup that you could possibly have. After that your only worry would be if a car leaked somewhere down the track and causes major problems for you but if that where the case then even a N/A car would have to let off the gas to compensate. That is why people do so many trial runs to get there cars dialed in to certain tracks on certain days before a big racing event if I am correct.

[drewhenderson13]

momentary switches suck, just make your car hook and u wont have to worry about anything hes talking about

[juiced99ws6]

momentary switches suck, just make your car hook and u wont have to worry about anything hes talking about

thats all well and god but he is talking more along the lines of 1000 horsepower drag cars that will take up the front tires and twist the chassis so bad that you have to be ready for the unexpected. That is why I suggested the progressive controller. You can ease your way up to 100% during the practice runs and find out exactly how much nitrous your car likes and go from there. Just as you would with any other tuning. Play with the beginning and ending percentages and the amount of time in the delay as well as the RPM window you want it activated within. If you can do that and tune your car that way then it should really be on omre different than dealing with N/A power or blown power.

[drewhenderson13]

thats all well and god but he is talking more along the lines of 1000 horsepower drag cars that will take up the front tires and twist the chassis so bad that you have to be ready for the unexpected. That is why I suggested the progressive controller. You can ease your way up to 100% during the practice runs and find out exactly how much nitrous your car likes and go from there. Just as you would with any other tuning. Play with the beginning and ending percentages and the amount of time in the delay as well as the RPM window you want it activated within. If you can do that and tune your car that way then it should really be on omre different than dealing with N/A power or blown power.

i agree but the parson who asked the original question on how to run nitrous (ATC) was refering to a throttle body injection 305, so tahts been what im refering to the whole time.

its a street car, u dont really want to pulse the nitrous in it, im not sure, but i hear thats kinda hard on em.

and if u cant control a 305 with only spray in a burnout... u prolly dont need to drive

[juiced99ws6]

i agree but the parson who asked the original question on how to run nitrous (ATC) was refering to a throttle body injection 305, so tahts been what im refering to the whole time.

its a street car, u dont really want to pulse the nitrous in it, im not sure, but i hear thats kinda hard on em.

and if u cant control a 305 with only spray in a burnout... u prolly dont need to drive

This is a very true statement. That is how I have run my TA since I got it. Toggle switch and WOT Switch. I am just now swiching to a progressive setup to preserve the life of my car with the added ohrsepower gains. I was just commenting on the drag car application because I believe there is always a better solution than a simple push button but hell people race how they are used to. The push button would be more old school and im sure that the method LS2 Tuner has been using for years.

[drewhenderson13]

This is a very true statement. That is how I have run my TA since I got it. Toggle switch and WOT Switch. I am just now swiching to a progressive setup to preserve the life of my car with the added ohrsepower gains. I was just commenting on the drag car application because I believe there is always a better solution than a simple push button but hell people race how they are used to. The push button would be more old school and im sure that the method LS2 Tuner has been using for years.

true true, to each his own

what progressive setup are u going to use?

i hear thats the best way but im not completly sure how they work... do they have som sort of valve in line of fuel and nitrous that a computer regulates?


this is the only way i can see for them to work

im loking into getting a ls1 car and i want to run a big nitrous setup, and ive thought of using a progressive nitrous setup

[juiced99ws6]

Honestly I woul dhave to get back with you on which one I am going to be ordering. I am ordering it through a local shop and the owner said he has had lots of success hooking them up on the cars he has worked on. It has the progressive controller and also a built in window switch as well as a few other features. If I can find it online I will post it up. Also here is some info that will explain progressive controllers much better than I would be able to.

NITROUS CONTROLLERS

What is it? A nitrous controller is often called a progressive box. A progressive box is an electronic gadget with a miniature computer. It allows you to limit the flow rate of nitrous and fuel available to the nitrous system and consequently the useable horsepower available to the tires.

The word progressive is supposed to mean that if you had jets in your nitrous system that could potentially produce 300 HP, you could set the controller to pulse for a period of time, limiting the HP and then ramping back up to full flow HP in the time span you dictate. This description is not entirely accurate, however. It’s kind of misleading to think that your HP is cut in half, for instance. Nothing has really changed as far as the potential HP level is concerned, which is dictated by your jets and pressures. What is really happening is that the solenoid is opening and closing enough times per second to limit the amount of time that the maximum flow rate is available to the jets. We call this opening and closing “pulsing.” Think of it this way. If you are in front of a spinning revolving door is it open or closed to you? Obviously only part of you can get through unless you are super human quick, so it is closed for a moment. Open it a little slower and you can sneak by if you are quick enough. The same principle is how nitrous controllers operate. A nitrous controller slows down the maximum flow rate by turning the flow on and off in short bursts over a period of time.

WHY AND WHEN YOU NEED TO USE A PROGRESSIVE CONTROLLER

A nitrous controller is desired to soften the incredible torque spike that occurs with each stage of nitrous activation. You may have an engine with more torque than the car or track can handle or you have a tire limited class car (or both) with no wheelie bars and it has a tendency to spin the tires. If you use a controller and reduce the amount of nitrous available to the engine just long enough to get the car moving forward then ramp in the full charge you will improve your ET, guaranteed.

Some folks try to do the power reduction with ignition retards (reducing total timing) combined with delaying the nitrous activation but this can bite you by producing bumper dragging wheel stands. While this works in some cases it is hard to take enough timing out and not have the pinion try to climb the ring gear and wheel stand the car. When you pull the timing back too far from the engine's ideal point and the nitrous is not activated, the engine really runs sour. While this wheelstand may get your car featured in DRO, you won’t win the race.

If you use the nitrous controller instead of ignition to accomplish this you can leave the timing where it needs to be with the nitrous on and avoid extreme wheel stands and losing. Usually it only requires 2-5 tenths of nitrous progressive duration to make the chassis work as it was intended and stick the car to the track.


http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...10-prog-1.html

[drewhenderson13]

makes sense... a little different than how i thought they worked.

i always new their purpose and their advantages, i just didnt know how they regulated the ammount of nitrous and fuel flow.

im gonna look into them and see how much they cost, i may decide to run this too

apprechiate the info

[juiced99ws6]

If you want kind of a simple setup then look into the dynotune controllers. They are only 150$ and I have heard good things about them. I personally just want the built in window switch and other features. run a google search and you can find all kinds of them for all different price ranges

[drewhenderson13]

if i go to build an ls1 money will be no object (within reason)

i want to build about the best nitrous setup that isnt direct port.

the car will be stock bottom end stock heads (not even a port polish if i can help it, but i might eventually) so the quality of the nitrous setup is going to be the biggest strength of this car.

[juiced99ws6]

if you want to maintain stock bottom end and put the biggest nitrous shot through it thats possible then definatly go all out with your nitrous controller. That takes away that initial torque spike and wont shock your engine or chassis near as much. There are some very nice controllers that I was looking at earlier that even utilize the use of a laptop for fine tuning your nitrous setup. Very cool stuff out there. If you were to get a setup like that then you could also use data logging and tuning software along side it and dhave a very kickass car.

[drewhenderson13]

yea longevity of the engine it very important to me. the car might end up being my dd. but i dont want to sacrafice power for a reliable car. i think a controler like ur talking about will help. and with street cars hooking up makes a huge diference, ive seen cars with less work done to em beat 500hp ls1s caus the ls1 wont hook and the driver doesnt know how to compensate.

traction is a bog pluss for those controlers, im definetly gonna look into em.

btw i planned on running a 200 shot but how much do u think the setup im talking about will take with one of these controlers and still be "reliable"

would a 300 shot be out of reach in your opinion?

[juiced99ws6]

Depends on what else you have done to the car. I would just ease into it and push it a little farther everytime and keep an eye on your data logging software and make sure you have a very safe tune

[drewhenderson13]

i plan on doing everything except leaving the bottom end and heads stock. i want to show what a "stock" ls1 can do. the cooloing system will be upgraded and it wil lhave all bolt ons (intake, exhaust, etc) so the only danger should be excessive cylinder pressure or overheating. blowing a head gasket wouldnt be too bad caus then i could just upgrade, but burning a piston or ring would ruin my stock bottom end plan.

[juiced99ws6]

well if you plan on doing a cam then you will also have to do some valvetrain upgrades as well so you could alway just pull the heads completely and put in a better head gasket and ARP head bolts so give you a better sense of comfort. Also go all out on pushrods and valve springs so that you dont have anything to worry about except that bottom end. Your tune will prevent you from any threat of detonation or running to lean as long as you upgrade your fuel system accordingly and make sure your tuner knows what he is doing and do not start at a 300 shot work your way up and use data loggin software so either you or your tuner can make sure you are safe to take it up to the next level

[drewhenderson13]

good point... prolly start at a 150, i know ls1s can take that easy.

[juiced99ws6]

that would be a good starting point. I started at a 150 shot and backed off to 100 shot when I came to a shitty track and went back up to 150 shot when I got my MT DR

[LS2Tuner]

I know you know your stuff Tuner so dont think im pickign a fight with you, just adding some things into the mix (I didnt want it to come out the wrong way)

If you dial in your suspension right to handle the power and throw a progressive controller/ window switch into the mix then after a couple of passes you would not need to worry about pulsing anything. Your nitrous will ease its way up to full power just as a supercharger would and you can make sure to leave just enough out to where you will not be breaking traction and will then have the most consistant worry free nitrous setup that you could possibly have. After that your only worry would be if a car leaked somewhere down the track and causes major problems for you but if that where the case then even a N/A car would have to let off the gas to compensate. That is why people do so many trial runs to get there cars dialed in to certain tracks on certain days before a big racing event if I am correct.

Well once you have played with nitrous longer and BIG shots your come to realize that 75% of your gain is right out of the gate.So unless we are doing more than 200 shot or multiple stages we don't use nor need the progressive.
I want the true benefit of using the bottle so I'll continue to smack AT LEAST 175 right out of the gate.The ONLY reason I haven't shaken off this BULLS_IT wheel hop yet in the GOAT is because of the IRS.
And the other reason to keep the button in my hand is because the track is always changing......ALL this freaking imports and other dumba_ses in domestics rolling through the water box with there street tires....INSTEAD OF DRIVING AROUND IT LIKE EVERYONE SHOULD DO WITH A STREET CAR!!!
We have a car that gets run in braket races almost every weekend with a 200 shot on it and he uses it on a regular basis on the big end and half track. Most people think it would cause him to break out due to the large shot but thats the whole thing I'm stating it doesn't make that big of a difference unless it's right out of the gate.

[Eagle]

I'm still spraying the 100 shot because with the window switch set to spray at 3k beginning in 1st - the car has minor traction issues already. Maybe once I get a set of DRs on it I'll try the 150 shot. For now, all I can see is it burning up my tires like crazy. :P

-Eagle

[LS2Tuner]

I'm still spraying the 100 shot because with the window switch set to spray at 3k beginning in 1st - the car has minor traction issues already. Maybe once I get a set of DRs on it I'll try the 150 shot. For now, all I can see is it burning up my tires like crazy. :P

-Eagle

Let me guess......Your still running the stock WS6 VERY stiff rear springs?
If so do your self a MAJOR cheap favor and go to the junkyard and buy a pair of used V-6 springs. It will make you change those jets quick.
If you have already done this then I guess your tires must be crap.