My 1969 Chevy Nova

**Conrad283** · 04-25-2010, 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I usually blast and wire wheel the bolts. I used to paint them, but they would always chip on installation. I picked up a black oxide kit last year and have used it quite a bit. The whole kit was around $60-70 and gives a factory look to the bolts. Granted, it does not provide the best rust protection, but so far has held up well on all the suspension and frame bolts on our Cutlass.

I know Eastwood now offers a black oxide kit. I purchased mine through Caswell, Inc. Here are some pics of the rear sway bar end link bolts for our Trans Am in the blackening solution (no current required like some metal coatings):

[thumbhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/pajeffro/DSC02680.jpg[/thumb]

What's the process on the black oxide?

**pajeff02** · 04-25-2010, 07:09 PM

Originally Posted by Conrad283

What's the process on the black oxide?

The parts are first degreased, blasted and/or wire wheeled. They are then dipped in the black oxide solution, which is a concentrate mixed with water, for approximately 5-10 minutes. Upon removal, the parts are blown dry and are then dipped in a sealer for another 5-10 minutes before removal. I let them set overnight to air dry before handling. I believe the Caswell site has an on-line video of the process that you can watch.

**slims00ls1z28** · 04-25-2010, 08:40 PM

Nice project! Dammit now you have me missing mine. Had a 73 hatchback L6/PG, 69 307/350, 69 dunno what was original it had a crate 350/350, and a 70 with 307/350 all at different times of course. I love them. I got alot of stuff from chevy2only, http://www.chevy2only.com/chevy2only/index.html. They were usually cheaper than the rest and even sold used stuff. Damn too bad I just saw this thread I threw out a whole crate full of misc Nova parts that were hard to find

. Good luck great project.

**Conrad283** · 05-07-2010, 12:52 PM

I've made a bunch of progress since i posted last.

Carpet: I ripped it in a few spots, so it's toast. But that's all right ... The padding is all patchy underneath it which would create an uneven floor. If you're gonna do it, do it right.

Front drivers side ... Toast, needs to be replaced

Front passenger side: No visible holes, but I may replace it anyway

Rear drivers side: Some rust, but I don't think it needs to be replaced

Rear passenger side: Best one, definitely not replacing it.

**Conrad283** · 05-07-2010, 01:00 PM

Fenders + radiator support off

Old as$ wiring harness out

Bare interior firewall & dash

Three on the tree, not for me ... Buh bye

The engine and trans are going to be pulled next week sometime. Then the subframe will be coming out and inspected. If it's good, then it'll be blasted and powder coated

**KahanaReef** · 05-07-2010, 01:18 PM

My my... you have been the busy little bee haven't you...

Three on the tree is not for you, huh?

**Conrad283** · 05-07-2010, 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by KahanaReef

My my... you have been the busy little bee haven't you...

Three on the tree is not for you, huh?

I've been doing my best. I had to post in the emergency forum over on pro-touring.com because I couldn't separate the steering arm from the inner tie rod. Turns out, I wasn't hitting it hard enough.

The three on the tree is not for me. I will be finding a t56 to mate to a LS1, and that'll be a floor shift.

**pajeff02** · 05-07-2010, 03:19 PM

Looking good. Not sure what your intentions are on suspension pieces, subframe and such, but check into POR-15 (Paint Over Rust). I have used that on a couple of our cars and it really does a nice job. Just have to make sure you use the topcoat on any exposed pieces as the base product is not UV resistant. I apply it with a foam brush and because it is so thin the final look is always nice and smooth.

**Conrad283** · 05-08-2010, 05:51 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Looking good. Not sure what your intentions are on suspension pieces, subframe and such, but check into POR-15 (Paint Over Rust). I have used that on a couple of our cars and it really does a nice job. Just have to make sure you use the topcoat on any exposed pieces as the base product is not UV resistant. I apply it with a foam brush and because it is so thin the final look is always nice and smooth.

I'm going to have the subframe media blasted and then powdercoated, as there's a lot of build up gunk on the frame from something leaking.

**pajeff02** · 05-08-2010, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by Conrad283

I'm going to have the subframe media blasted and then powdercoated, as there's a lot of build up gunk on the frame from something leaking.

Leaks on old cars are sometimes good. Keeps things from getting rusty underneath. Seriously, even if you powdercoat the subframe it's a good idea to POR the inside of the rails. A foam brush taped to a wooden dowel will reach about 95% of the inside surfaces. It really depends on the powdercoat shop as to how much coverage you will get otherwise.

**qwk93ta** · 05-11-2010, 01:26 PM

subscribing....good luck.

**Conrad283** · 05-11-2010, 02:38 PM

Motor and trans are out

**KahanaReef** · 05-11-2010, 03:21 PM

You're just moving right along

**Conrad283** · 05-11-2010, 03:54 PM

Originally Posted by KahanaReef

You're just moving right along

I'm trying ... I'm getting close to getting it blasted

I gotta do some work on the rear and the doors, as far as taking out the weather stripping and glass.

That'll be Thursday

**KahanaReef** · 05-11-2010, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by Conrad283

I'm trying ... I'm getting close to getting it blasted

I gotta do some work on the rear and the doors, as far as taking out the weather stripping and glass.

That'll be Thursday

How much time a day are you able to devote to this? Seems to me you're making really good progress in a relatively short time.

**Shermanator86** · 05-11-2010, 04:47 PM

looks like it'll be a hell of a ride when you done

**Conrad283** · 05-11-2010, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by KahanaReef

How much time a day are you able to devote to this? Seems to me you're making really good progress in a relatively short time.

I'm a nurse, so therefore I work 3 days a week and that's full time. I have an almost two year old. Right now he takes approximately 3 hour naps. So I usually work on the car 9 hours a week. But I know exactly what I'm going to do before I do it so I'm not jumping around.

Originally Posted by Shermanator86

looks like it'll be a hell of a ride when you done

Thanks, I sure hope so.

**KahanaReef** · 05-11-2010, 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by Conrad283

I'm a nurse, so therefore I work 3 days a week and that's full time. I have an almost two year old. Right now he takes approximately 3 hour naps. So I usually work on the car 9 hours a week. But I know exactly what I'm going to do before I do it so I'm not jumping around.

A man with a plan... I like that

**pajeff02** · 05-11-2010, 06:44 PM

Nice to see continued progress. Any breakage or have you found any scary stuff on what you have apart so far?

**Conrad283** · 05-11-2010, 07:45 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Nice to see continued progress. Any breakage or have you found any scary stuff on what you have apart so far?

Nope, not really ... I've taken the entire car apart thus far with elbow grease and hand tools. I don't have a compressor, so any rusted bolts or whatever have been a little tricky, but I've gotten then off.

I ran into a problem separating the steering arm from the outer tie rod, but turns out I wasn't hitting it hard enough to get it apart.

The only real problem is the front floor pan which I posted pics on in post 84.

The sub frame has a lot of gunk on it which should come off when it gets blasted.