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Thread: My 1969 Chevy Nova
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04-20-2010, 09:36 PM #6102 CETA #654 7800 miles
09 G8 GT liquid red, sport/premium/sunroof red/black int
07 Tahoe LS
...you'll know it's me when I come through your town
I'm gonna ride around in style, I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'cause I'll have the only one there is around
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04-21-2010, 05:22 PM #62
I found some rust today. It's under where my feet would be at the pedals the floor is rusted through.
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04-21-2010, 05:26 PM #63
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04-21-2010, 05:27 PM #64
Nice thing about owning a Nova -- you can get all the sheetmetal you need. I didn't make a good choice for my first restoration project as I can not find any sheetmetal for it. Everything is going to have to be handformed. Keep posting pics as you go so we can enjoy the progress.
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04-21-2010, 07:36 PM #65
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04-22-2010, 07:42 AM #66
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04-22-2010, 11:52 AM #67
Found the original owners manual in the glove compartment ... Pretty cool
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04-22-2010, 11:59 AM #68
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04-22-2010, 12:12 PM #69
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- San Diego, CA
- Posts
- 5,822
2002 Z28 A4 NBM- Sadly now demodded :(
Does it have the POP attached to it?
And, if you don't know (most don't), the "POP" or Protect-O-Plate is a metal plate with letters and number embossed that indicate all relevant info on the car for the dealer for work purposes. It will have a reversed Dymo label attached to it with the owners name embossed. This was used with a credit card type device to imprint on the work order for warranty and maintenance work. All of this was attached to the last page of the original Owners Manual. This is what was used in the days before barcodes and computers.
In the case of high performance cars (SS's and the like) it's indisputable proof of the cars provenance as it contains the VIN as well as most of the option codes the cars was born with. This is one way you can document a high performance car without the engine or tranny being present.
I kept this info (original "pink slip" as well as the owners manual with POP) from the 1st one of the many 67 Camaro's I've owned.Last edited by 67CamaroRSSS; 04-22-2010 at 12:14 PM.
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04-22-2010, 12:21 PM #70
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04-22-2010, 03:42 PM #71
Got the dash off
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04-22-2010, 06:26 PM #72
Good to hear that you can save the carpet and found the manual and stuff. How about a build sheet? I have never yet found one in any of our cars... still hoping though.
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04-24-2010, 05:43 AM #73
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04-24-2010, 07:36 AM #74
Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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04-24-2010, 07:48 PM #75
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04-25-2010, 01:28 PM #76
Progress, this is it:
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04-25-2010, 02:16 PM #77
Make sure to take lots of pictures as you go to document everything. I keep a notebook by the car during teardown and write down notes on how things are oriented, order of assembly, etc. I have also found that using baggies to hold all the hardware works great. Slip a piece of paper in each baggie with enough information to tell you where stuff goes. If you don't have one, an Assembly Manual is a great thing to have as well. Good to see steady progress.
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04-25-2010, 04:54 PM #78
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04-25-2010, 05:25 PM #79
Take all your bolts and nuts to a Alt rebuild shop. Ask them to run them through their bead blaster. It will clean them up nice and give you a better idea of what can/can't be reused. Helps if you know someone there too of course. Other wise, it's off to the wire wheel and hope not to shoot your nuts/bolts across the shop.. Just my .02
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04-25-2010, 05:33 PM #80
I usually blast and wire wheel the bolts. I used to paint them, but they would always chip on installation. I picked up a black oxide kit last year and have used it quite a bit. The whole kit was around $60-70 and gives a factory look to the bolts. Granted, it does not provide the best rust protection, but so far has held up well on all the suspension and frame bolts on our Cutlass.
I know Eastwood now offers a black oxide kit. I purchased mine through Caswell, Inc. Here are some pics of the rear sway bar end link bolts for our Trans Am in the blackening solution (no current required like some metal coatings):
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