Results 61 to 76 of 76
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12-18-2006, 06:45 PM #61
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12-19-2006, 01:41 PM #62
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- ORLANDO,FL
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 444
SUNSET ORANGE- 2001 PONTIAC TRANS AM WS6
A clay bar takes out the imbeded dirt built up after time. Mothers and megiuars makes a good clay bar. When using it slide it oneway over the car. There is a spray that comes with it. (But use clean car soap) Put as much soap on the car and then Rince and done. You will be like Wow
But you have to wax after using the bar. Use a cleaner wax,seal&glaze then a carnauba wax.
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12-19-2006, 05:06 PM #63
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12-19-2006, 05:35 PM #64
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12-19-2006, 06:14 PM #65
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12-19-2006, 06:55 PM #66
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12-20-2006, 08:46 AM #67
To clean your tips and rims try the magic eraser. the auto mr clean works good and also the clay bar too.[/QUOTE]
Spray rim cleaner on first then clean it off with a magic eraser. It's the bomb diggity. All tar, dust, anything will come off.
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12-20-2006, 11:24 AM #68
Here's a link that you can read that tells you a little bit about what clay bars do.
Also, when do you know your paint needs to be claybarred?
The best time is after you have washed and/or waxed your car. Do this: get a plastic sandwich baggie, stick your hand in it as if it was a glove, run your hand across your paint slowly, and if you feel the surface a bit gritty or bumpy, then you'll need a clay bar to remove those contaminants. The claybar should leave the surface pretty smooth.
Another tip, try to get a fine grade clay bar. Use a lot of lubricant. At first it will feel like it's dragging a bit. Don't put too much pressure when rubbing your paint, it can create some marring. Again, use a lot of lube, and work small sections at a time. Fold your clay once, and continue to use. When that side is dirty, don't turn it over the clean side, fold it again, that way you'll always have two clean sides, and makes it safer to your paint.
If the clay is too hard, you can use warm water to soften it up, and knead it much easier to cup it into your fingers. Don't drop the clay while you're using its. Use just enough to do the job, that way if you drop it, you can grab another one, rather than ruining the whole bar
CLAY BAR
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12-20-2006, 11:28 AM #69
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12-20-2006, 11:37 AM #70
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12-20-2006, 11:38 AM #71
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Oh.
Damn.
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12-20-2006, 02:59 PM #72
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12-20-2006, 03:46 PM #73
Alot of detailing products might use some some kind of silicone or another. That how they produce such a high gloss.....
Myth has it paint shops have problems repainting if you ever used silicone..And that kinda true but any competent paint shop that preps correctly "should'nt" have any trouble........2000 NBM WS6
/oo_________oo\
|==_/_ws6_\_==|
><(((º>´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸><((((º>
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12-20-2006, 03:57 PM #74
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12-20-2006, 04:23 PM #75
I agree, what you use on your car shouldn't be an issue for a bodyshop to repaint your car.
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12-21-2006, 07:40 AM #76
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Jenks/Tulsa
- Posts
- 4,798
Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
If they strip all products from the finish properly (which they should if they are any kind of body/detail shop), then there shouldn't be any problems.
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