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  1. #61
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpop98ws6 View Post
    I had drilled and slotted rotors on there with hawk pads but the rotors were cracking around the holes.
    Just curious, what brand were they? I purchased the drilled/slotted for mine and have yet to install them, but hadn't heard of that happening with the R1 rotors. I did quite a bit of research prior to buying. I have heard of other brands having that issue though, mostly due to not breaking them in correctly, or not having a countersunk hole or some sort of stress relief around the hole.
    Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.

  2. #62
    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    98 WS6/04 Sierra Dmax

    Cheap ebay rotors, they lasted about 7 years before they really started getting bad. The dragstrip doesn't help.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    Now is that coating going to clog up the pads when it burns itself off? That would be a concern to me!
    No, the coating you see above on the swept area isn't powdercoat, It's simply just high temp paint. We recommend that to anyone with drilled, and slotted to assist in preventing rust in the drilled holes or slots.

    I personally done these with my vehicle and friends cars.

    It's a lightly thin coat.

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    Me too.....I would turn those before mounting them. I would rather have rust than paint. My first thought is someone messed up.
    Turning rotors will slightly decrease rotor thickness which will increase the chase of warpage. Again, it will burn off in a few miles no problem. Again this is due to it being a spray coated coat not a powdercoat.
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  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Really? Everyone else has a different kit for ABS only and TCS so that is cool that with stoptech it doesn't matter.
    Yes it is =)

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpop98ws6 View Post
    I had drilled and slotted rotors on there with hawk pads but the rotors were cracking around the holes.
    Typically Drilled and Slotted is great for someone who DD their car and isn't someone who demands stopping power or brakes aggressively. If your work the rotor pass it's efficiency the results above on a drilled and slotted rotor will appear. This goes for all brands. I've "cracked" brembo drilled only rotors with Hawk DTC-60 Pads at a track event here in So.Cal

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Just curious, what brand were they? I purchased the drilled/slotted for mine and have yet to install them, but hadn't heard of that happening with the R1 rotors. I did quite a bit of research prior to buying. I have heard of other brands having that issue though, mostly due to not breaking them in correctly, or not having a countersunk hole or some sort of stress relief around the hole.
    I'm not going to Toot our horn like this hasn't happen to us. I'm going to be truthful and say YES, this MAY happen if you work pass the efficiency of the rotor. Typically this happens to guys who buy drilled and slotted rotors for track use. This is HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED.

    The all around rotor for BEST Daily and Performance/"High Spirited"/Track minded person is a slotted rotor.

    More surface area = More Friction = More Stopping Ability without glazing a rotor when compared to the a Blank rotor.

    Now, Our Drilled and Slotted rotors have gone through Various types of drivers and cars with even track experience. They've held up fine with no problems afterwards. But for the sake of argument, Go Slotted for those who want braking performance without worrying about cracking a rotor.

  7. #67
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    I totally agree with Ralph's recommendation for slotted rotors as the all around best choice. We run the R1 Concepts premium slotted rotors both on the street and at the strip. They just plain work and have stayed looking good since installation.

  8. #68
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    Smashing Deals !! Thanks for the PM's don't be shy, Rotors, Pads, BBK's, SS Lines, and Fluids!!

  9. #69
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    BUMP for HUMP Day!

  10. #70
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette

    My rear SS brake lines came in today. Thanks Ralph!

    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
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  11. #71
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    ^^ Those look a lot nicer than the Russell lines I have on our car.

  12. #72
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    ^^ Those look a lot nicer than the Russell lines I have on our car.
    Cheaper too!

  13. #73
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    =)

    Thanks Fellas.... Lets get more R1 Rotors on you cars! Morning Bump

  14. #74
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    pewter
    2000 camaro ss

    Street strip car. Need front rotors and lines!! Car weighs 3200 lbs race weight. Sees some street time and mostly track passes.

  15. #75
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Ralph will sort out the details, but I highly recommend the R1 Concepts premium slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and stainless brake hoses. Made a world of difference in how our car stopped. When you swap out parts, be sure to clean and lube your caliper pins with synthetic brake grease. How quick/fast does she go in the quarter?

  16. #76
    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    pewter
    2000 camaro ss

    10.8x at 126. Now ordered nitrous see if I can get this m6 in the nines.

  17. #77
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    PM's Sent and Replied! Orders going out Thanks !!

  18. #78
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    Windy Wednesday Bump! 60mph Winds!!

  19. #79
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    Can I get an Admin to unlock my 1st post so I can add photos =) Please.

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by r1concepts View Post
    Can I get an Admin to unlock my 1st post so I can add photos =) Please.

    Are you getting an error? You should already be able to edit your first posts.
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