NGK Iridium OR Ac Delco Iridium Spark Plugs..

[Kjz99z28]

Iridium claim to be good for a 100,000 miles, copper around 25,000

Are you planning on doing this yourself?
Don't know if I would recommend that, not that you couldn't it's just it can be a real pain in the ass.

The copper plugs are much cheaper two dollars and change vs. seven and change for the Iridiums.
That's in the NGK line, the ACdelco Iridiums are I think around a buck cheaper.

Yes, I'll be doing it myself. I'm definitely prepared for the pain in the ass, since last time I did this I had experienced help. But.. I've decided to go for it. I need to figure out how to get it done and learn how to make it go a little faster so I can keep doing it myself. That, and I am a broke college student with no extra cash to be paying people to do it.

[{FzS}BlacKMagicK]

Yes, I'll be doing it myself. I'm definitely prepared for the pain in the ass, since last time I did this I had experienced help. But.. I've decided to go for it. I need to figure out how to get it done and learn how to make it go a little faster so I can keep doing it myself. That, and I am a broke college student with no extra cash to be paying people to do it.

Well, if you want to stick with NGK, you have a choice between pay me now or pay me later.

NGK Iridium Plugs are 70.07 for your car (that's using Summit Racing and included in that is their 10.95 handling fee, they don't charge shipping)

NGK copper Plugs are 30.07 for your car (including the 10.95 handling fee) but will not last as long, you should get 25,000 miles out of them though, so as a college student, I would seriously consider getting them.

Though it is cool to tell people (if you got the Iridiums) "yea my spark plugs are made out of a material that came from an asteroid 500 million years ago" It isn't a neccesity.

All you really need to change them is a spark plug gapper (you should make sure the gap is where it's supposed to be before installing) a 5/8" socket (preferably an actual 5/8" socket made for changing spark plugs, it has a foam cushion inside to prevent damage to the plugs, nice but not an absolute necessity) and a ratchet.


Now, if you go with Iridiums, it's very important not to push down on the top electrode while the gapping tool is in between the two electrodes, this will break the Iridium tip, it's extreme strength, actually makes it more brittle, just like stainless steel, stronger but more brittle. Manufacturers do state however that with Iridium, slight amounts off in the gap, does not effect the plug's firing ability near as much as a copper plug and is therefore not as critical.


You'll find most plugs at the stated pre-gap, but in my life I have found a few that were not. If your not sure how to gap the plugs if it were needed, when you go to buy a gapper, ask the guy at the counter to show you on a spark plug how to use it.

Now when putting them in, (it would be great if you could get a hold of a torque wrench, but assuming you can't) you'll want to finger tighten them only, no ratchet yet, once they are finger tightened, then place the socket and ratchet over them and turn only a sixteenth to 1/8 of a turn, then that plug is done.

Oh, and if you can get hold of a torque wrench, for your car which takes a tapered seat plug going into aluminum, you'll want to set the torque between 7-15ftlbs. If using ant-seize compound (which you should) (that gets applied to the threads of the plug) you should go with the lower end of that spectrum.

[Kjz99z28]

Alright, thanks for all the help! One last question though.. if I get the ngk copper plugs, what gap do I need to make those? (Assuming they aren't pre-gapped)

[Mr. Luos]

Alright, thanks for all the help! One last question though.. if I get the ngk copper plugs, what gap do I need to make those? (Assuming they aren't pre-gapped)

Always assume they aren't.


.052" for the coppers.

[bspalmer]

The AC Delcos I got were gapped perfect from the factory (yes, I checked them before just throwing them on). The #8 plug is almost impossible to get at from the top of the engine. Some people have claimed success on this one. I needed to go up from the bottom. Check out this helpful link:

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

Go to the "Install Documents" section and you will find "Spark plug and wire swap" under the Engine title.

If you decide to remove the AIR pump (which I did on the passenger side to make access easier), the replacement gasket is 12553617. It is under $2 at your GM dealer.

Hopefully this helps!