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Thread: Rear defrost does not work
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11-24-2009, 02:53 PM #41
PM sent.
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11-24-2009, 03:11 PM #42Senior Member
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- Dec 2006
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- Deltona, FL
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
so it seems like even one break in the rear element can cause the whole thing to fail. Would this be an accurate statement?
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11-24-2009, 03:25 PM #43Senior Member
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- Dec 2006
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- Deltona, FL
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
well after reading the list of trouble shooting steps.
it states if you are getting voltage at the connect but no defrost and switch light.
you have a bad switch,
.
this means i have a bad switch and a second u-pull it switch that is bad.
guess i will be saving the big bucks for a brand new switch.
I get voltage in each step of the trouble shoot. bummer, well that's what you get for gambling on used parts,
.
you have to know when to hold em, know when to fold em, know when to walk away, lol...
thank you pajeff02, that PM was just what i needed.
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11-24-2009, 04:53 PM #44
No problem -- glad I could help out. Now that you have a diagram and know what the wires are, try a jumper and see if it activates your defroster. You can also unplug and probe the back of the switch with a continuity tester to see what you get. I hate to see you invest in another switch.
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11-25-2009, 04:06 AM #45Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
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- Deltona, FL
- Age
- 51
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
I guess I could check 0 Ohms vs some Ohms for continuity. I don't think any of my meters tone for continuity like some of the fancy ones, such as a Fluke. Oh I wish I could afford a Fluke.
It looks like you would jumper Brown and Purple. The would be the ignition voltage to the rear defrost wiring. Hey, I could just drive with my defrost on 100%, lol.... Believe it or not I use mine to help warm up the morning dew down here. people think you don't need one in the south, but I find it can help with early morning dew.
At least if I jumper it I should get my 12V at the rear hatch connections.
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