Fucking trams am pos god damnit

[B34M3R]

Welll.....

I am damn glad I'm not the guy that worked on your car, that much is certain.

[nuttyprofessor]

sorry to hear that man that sux....at least no one got hurt

[310stanger]

As a technician, if I get one point across to you guys on this board let it be this......

STOP FUCKING PUTTING ANTI-SEIZE ON WHEELS STUDS/LUG NUTS! THERES NO REASON TO DO THIS! Just make sure the threads are always good, take your time screwing the lugs on and if you are that anal torque the fuckers. But for christ sake I don't know what makes people think anti-seize on something like a wheel lug is a good idea. All it does is make a freakin mess and make your torque readings inaccurate.

[Sweet Chops]

As a technician, if I get one point across to you guys on this board let it be this......

STOP FUCKING PUTTING ANTI-SEIZE ON WHEELS STUDS/LUG NUTS! THERES NO REASON TO DO THIS! Just make sure the threads are always good, take your time screwing the lugs on and if you are that anal torque the fuckers. But for christ sake I don't know what makes people think anti-seize on something like a wheel lug is a good idea. All it does is make a freakin mess and make your torque readings inaccurate.

Good to know I was going to start putting anti-seize on my studs. But after reading this I'm not going to. I have also heard that it dosen't pay to torque your lugs because after the first time they are torqued the studs stretched out. So you should just tighten them up. Is this true 310stanger?

Ryan

[kickflippin1]

As a technician, if I get one point across to you guys on this board let it be this......

STOP FUCKING PUTTING ANTI-SEIZE ON WHEELS STUDS/LUG NUTS! THERES NO REASON TO DO THIS! Just make sure the threads are always good, take your time screwing the lugs on and if you are that anal torque the fuckers. But for christ sake I don't know what makes people think anti-seize on something like a wheel lug is a good idea. All it does is make a freakin mess and make your torque readings inaccurate.

AHEM!! Repost...AHEM!! J/K, but i did post that in post #6.

As for Ryan99, i dont know who told you that, but you should always torque your lug nuts. I've been doing tire/wheel work for 4 years, and i've worked for 3 different companies, and each one of them has said torquing is the most important part.

[310stanger]

Good to know I was going to start putting anti-seize on my studs. But after reading this I'm not going to. I have also heard that it dosen't pay to torque your lugs because after the first time they are torqued the studs stretched out. So you should just tighten them up. Is this true 310stanger?

Ryan

It doesnt hurt to torque them. But people put way too much emphasis on doing it. It'd be more crucial for someone that does road racing or if you are gonna go drag racing or something. However, I use a special socket on every car I work on that automatically torques the wheel lugs to both 80 and 100 ft lbs. Just do a star parttern and tighten the fuckers up works in most cases though lol Some people will try and tell you that they think torquing the wheel lugs somehow prevents brake pulsations, but a brake pulsation is from excessive heat and or rust making an irregular contact surface of the rotor.

[Sweet Chops]

Thanks for the responds.

Ryan

[B34M3R]

It doesnt hurt to torque them. But people put way too much emphasis on doing it. It'd be more crucial for someone that does road racing or if you are gonna go drag racing or something. However, I use a special socket on every car I work on that automatically torques the wheel lugs to both 80 and 100 ft lbs. Just do a star parttern and tighten the fuckers up works in most cases though lol Some people will try and tell you that they think torquing the wheel lugs somehow prevents brake pulsations, but a brake pulsation is from excessive heat and or rust making an irregular contact surface of the rotor.

Um, I must admit I am excessively curious as to what "socket" torques to 80 and 100 ft/lbs? Call me silly, but I'm fairly sure science dictates that only one of the 2 is possible at one time. I'm pretty sure you meant something other than this exactly, so let me know.

Second.... for the love of god, do NOT use anti-seize on your lugnuts. It does one thing and one thing only, MAKE THEM EASIER TO COME OFF. When you are tightening them to a certain rating, what you are doing is ensuring that they do NOT begin to come undone unless a force of over the ft/lbs in applied to them... that is like... THE POINT of tightening them.

Third..... you don't need to tighten your lugnuts to an exact amount everytime. The number you are given is an estimate. Its always SAFER to torque them tighter rather than looser. (by that I mean.... if you can't measure the torque, then put those bitches on as tight as you can) Hell, put the lug nut wrench on and jump on that damn thing... as long as the lug nuts don't strip, you are better off than having LOOSE lug nuts. Period.

[bodyman5000]

Third..... you don't need to tighten your lugnuts to an exact amount everytime. The number you are given is an estimate. Its always SAFER to torque them tighter rather than looser. (by that I mean.... if you can't measure the torque, then put those bitches on as tight as you can) Hell, put the lug nut wrench on and jump on that damn thing... as long as the lug nuts don't strip, you are better off than having LOOSE lug nuts. Period.

Please don't tell people stupid things like this. What I am saying is that spreading ignorance via the internet may have a butterfly effect.

I personally would rather have loose lugnuts that anyone would be able to notice while driving than have a wheel come flying off with no warning.

This reminds me of my uncle...six feet four and about 295 lbs of muscle. He would always tighten lug nuts like this. As tight as he could get them. Well, my grandmother wasn't too happy when she got a flat tire one night and couldn't get her wheel off.

[JoshieDoom]

aheeeeeeeemmmmm

[Sweet Chops]

aheeeeeeeemmmmm

Are they what you would call torque sticks

[JoshieDoom]

winnnaaaahhh

[NJ 666]

It doesnt hurt to torque them. But people put way too much emphasis on doing it. It'd be more crucial for someone that does road racing or if you are gonna go drag racing or something. However, I use a special socket on every car I work on that automatically torques the wheel lugs to both 80 and 100 ft lbs. Just do a star parttern and tighten the fuckers up works in most cases though lol Some people will try and tell you that they think torquing the wheel lugs somehow prevents brake pulsations, but a brake pulsation is from excessive heat and or rust making an irregular contact surface of the rotor.

Since the lug nuts are what actually holds the rotors on torquing them too much will cause the "hat" to bow. This causes runout which leads to thickness variation which is the real cause of brake pulsation. Some cars will have pulsation with as little as .0015" of thickness variation. Just my opinion.

[ls1camino]

Impact Gun and a Torque Stick...problem solved

[Smkn_TA]

He told me the wheel is unusable so I am going down to pick that up now so it is out of his way. As for the lugs, I use an expenssive snap-on torque wrench and it reccommends in the manual for PROPER torqueing on anything super sensitive make sure the torque value is in the middle range of the wrench not bottom or top 1/4th of it. And use oil on the nut. Now I have to think my anti-seize is a little less lubricating than oil. Even if I was using some super lube, do you really think it would make my torque wrench put enough extra on it to damage studs?? I highly highly doubt it.

I have a 100lbs torque stick also, but I don't use it...

I think I have an idea of what caused it though, every single day comming home from work, I come to a T-intersection. Two highways meet. The other highway is in a corner at this intersection so it is banked steep. When I pull onto it, it is off camber the other way for me. Thing is I blow that stop sign every day going 40, crest the road and go on the off camber side and back end usually slides a little. I think doing 5 times a week for over a year might have something to do with it.

Anyone know a company making racing studs for the trans am and do I have to drop the axle to get studs in/out?

I told the mechanic to get it driveable so I can bring it home then I am going to fix it. After the tranny guy I will never go to a mechanic again!

[ls1camino]

He told me the wheel is unusable so I am going down to pick that up now so it is out of his way. As for the lugs, I use an expenssive snap-on torque wrench and it reccommends in the manual for PROPER torqueing on anything super sensitive make sure the torque value is in the middle range of the wrench not bottom or top 1/4th of it. And use oil on the nut. Now I have to think my anti-seize is a little less lubricating than oil. Even if I was using some super lube, do you really think it would make my torque wrench put enough extra on it to damage studs?? I highly highly doubt it.

I have a 100lbs torque stick also, but I don't use it...

I think I have an idea of what caused it though, every single day comming home from work, I come to a T-intersection. Two highways meet. The other highway is in a corner at this intersection so it is banked steep. When I pull onto it, it is off camber the other way for me. Thing is I blow that stop sign every day going 40, crest the road and go on the off camber side and back end usually slides a little. I think doing 5 times a week for over a year might have something to do with it.

Anyone know a company making racing studs for the trans am and do I have to drop the axle to get studs in/out?

I told the mechanic to get it driveable so I can bring it home then I am going to fix it. After the tranny guy I will never go to a mechanic again!

ARP makes some, and yes, you do have to pull the axles

[gjb]

That fucking sucks, man. Sorry it happened.

[Hi-Po]

Are they what you would call torque sticks

Yep. they are sweet for them dealership mecanics.

If they made a torque stick that went to around ehhh 2200 ft/lbs I would buy it. I dont wanna over torque caterpillar shit!

You guys have no idea on some serious torque. Highest torque I have torqued so far is somehwere in the region of 2200 ft/lbs. Good times.

[Smkn_TA]

Here is wheel, picked it up in the afternoon. I told him about my last mechanic and all the shit I went through and he felt bad so he said he will hurry it up and gave me a break on the tow since I took it to him(Cops called the tow truck, not me and didn't give me an option). I told him I was ordering ARP studs and will drop them off so he can put them in. No point in having him put in normal studs, driving home and pulling them right back out. Btw, highest torque I ever did was 210lbs on a f250. And that was all the strength I had.

Image 1: I'm gonna cry.



Image 2: Can you spot where the balance weight was?


Image 3: What kind of power does it take to oval holes, let alone leave the imprints of the threads! Serious gouging also. Two holes arn't distorted, wich is odd...did those studs slide out or what!


Image 4: Tried to talk my brother into running his hand along the grooves to feel how deep they were, he said he might get cut or sliver...what a pussy!


Image 5: HEY MY SHOE! Seriously though, any ideas on what to do with it? I can't bring myself to throw it in the trash. The tire looks savable, one nasty gouge from the quarter panel but no leak. Btw the score is Quarter Panel: 1 -- Tire: 6542



Will have to put the 17 inch ws6 wheels back on once I get it until I can order me another vette wheel. I just started saving up from an fx4 f150 truck as of this week. Soon as I get enough, trans am is going to go into long term storage.

[310stanger]

To clarify to everyone..... I use an 80 lb and 100lb torque stick. never had a problem with them.