Shock Replacement

**greatwhiteZ28** · 09-10-2007, 06:10 PM

wooow grat to know, just saved tht list

thanks

**Bearcat** · 10-19-2007, 06:31 PM

Thanks ... Nice write-up link.

I'll be doing this real soon.

This will help save me a little grief.

**bartman50** · 12-11-2007, 11:24 AM

I have purchased the SLP springs and Bilstein shocks for my 99 SS. Now the front shocks/struts do not come with the spring seats, and I have had an SLP rep tell me to transfer the originals from the DeCarbons I will be removing. Has anyone done this, and what tools/procedures do I need to use to get this done. Any info is greatly appreciated.

**Bearcat** · 12-11-2007, 11:33 AM

This is a sticky link from LS1.com
http://fla-thirdgen.org/shockreplacement.htm

You will be removing the front strut mounts and rubber isolaters.

I replaced my front strut mounts on both sides.

**Bearcat** · 12-11-2007, 11:38 AM

And for the rears you shouldn't need to take the rear interior apart.
There are places in the material where you will have flaps to access
the rear shock mount bolts.

Just lower the rear seat and you should see serrations in the carpet where
you can cut the material. You will see contoured molded foam underneath
the carpet. It will be covered by the back seats so you wont see the flaps.

This is useful for those that have adjustable shocks.

**bartman50** · 12-11-2007, 11:49 AM

Thanks, and I appreciate the reply, but I have gone over this and other sites, and nothing describes removing the original spring seats from the front struts and mounting them on the new Bilsteins. I am talking about the seats or lower spring mount on the strut itself where the bottom of the front spring sets.

**Bearcat** · 12-11-2007, 04:14 PM

I see what you mean.

You need a spring compressor to compress the spring.

Once you have it compressed, you loosen the top shock nut.

That's what holds everything together. ( Remember those springs are under alot of tension. )

**mrr23** · 12-13-2007, 05:23 PM

i intentionally left out how to remove the spring.

also, i showed how to remove the carpet for those not wanting to cut their carpet.

**Bearcat** · 12-13-2007, 06:43 PM

mrr23,

I didn't mean any disrepect.

I found the sticky very helpful.

I have adjustable shocks so the flaps work good for me.

Not to get off subject but are you the guy that did they
write-up on the Vinci and Crane programmer ?

.

**mrr23** · 12-13-2007, 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by Bearcat

mrr23,

I didn't mean any disrepect.

I found the sticky very helpful.

I have adjustable shocks so the flaps work good for me.

i found no disrespect in your posts.

Originally Posted by Bearcat

Not to get off subject but are you the guy that did the write-up on the Vinci and Crane programmer ?

yes i did.

**Eagle** · 03-11-2008, 07:22 AM

So sounds like its common to have the upper boot get stuck on the stock strut. No one has figured out a good way to get it loose?

I am able to get the nut off, but the strut doesn't release the boot/mount...

Is there anywhere safe to heat the darn thing without melting any important rubber?

-Eagle

**Bearcat** · 03-11-2008, 10:37 PM

Originally Posted by Eagle

So sounds like its common to have the upper boot get stuck on the stock strut. No one has figured out a good way to get it loose?

I am able to get the nut off, but the strut doesn't release the boot/mount...

Is there anywhere safe to heat the darn thing without melting any important rubber?

-Eagle

It seems a good amount of F body owners have issues with the
rusted nut syndrom.

I ended up replacing the upper strut mounts eventhough I was able
to get the nut off.

If my nut was rusted, I would have used a sawsall to cut the old
shock rod. While doing that, I would have used a good spring compressor.

Remember: rusted nuts lead to busted nuts.

**Eagle** · 03-12-2008, 04:43 AM

LOL! After som more research yesterday I have ordered a set of AGXs and buying new strut mounts too. I want to be able to run factory springs at the track so I need to free them eventually, but don't need to worry about it right now.

Originally Posted by Bearcat

It seems a good amount of F body owners have issues with the
rusted nut syndrom.

I ended up replacing the upper strut mounts eventhough I was able
to get the nut off.

If my nut was rusted, I would have used a sawsall to cut the old
shock rod. While doing that, I would have used a good spring compressor.

Remember: rusted nuts lead to busted nuts.

**Bearcat** · 03-12-2008, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by Eagle

LOL! After som more research yesterday I have ordered a set of AGXs and buying new strut mounts too. I want to be able to run factory springs at the track so I need to free them eventually, but don't need to worry about it right now.

That sounds like a plan.

.

**matt100psi** · 04-18-2008, 03:52 PM

I know this is a pretty old thread, but does anyone still have that torque .pdf? The link is dead now.

Thanks,
Matt

**TedsB4Csled** · 05-15-2008, 03:04 AM

Yes, I'd like to get the torque specs too.

Do you need to compress front springs to get front shocks in?

**Eagle** · 05-15-2008, 05:03 AM

Originally Posted by TedsB4Csled

Do you need to compress front springs to get front shocks in?

Yes, you'll need a set of spring compressors to get the spring on the shock. You won't need it to get the assembled spring/shock unit mounted however.

-Eagle

**TedsB4Csled** · 05-15-2008, 05:30 AM

No spring, just want to replace shock. So I do need to compress it? Grrrrrrr!

**Eagle** · 05-15-2008, 10:38 AM

Originally Posted by TedsB4Csled

No spring, just want to replace shock. So I do need to compress it? Grrrrrrr!

Yes, since it mounts on the shock!

-Eagle

**kool-aide** · 05-17-2008, 03:22 PM

just so I am clear.

like it was discussed, i think, early, you lift the car so the weight is not on the suspension while doing this. I mean it makes since.

It sounds like the only place you use the spring compressor is the front? I'm not swapping springs, just replacing shocks/struts.

Ok, so where is the best place to get a new nut? I have a 99 w/ 101k on it, that nut will be beyond rusted, fused. Something you can find at Auto store, Hardware store?

does any one think this is really a 4.6 hour job, 3.2 front, 1.4 rear? Ok, don't count the time you spend on the rusted front nuts.

thanks

kool-aide