wet shot???

[mrr23]

I understand exactly what happened.

I recommend a Window switch not because of the puddling or the engine and tranny can't handle it. But because you can lugged the engine.

I would rather tell a newbie to always use one. They can decide use it or not. Or spray below 3000.

and i agree. tell them the truth, and let them decide.

[1959ls1]

Im not convinced on nitrous yet, I drive my car everyday and if I bust something big ill get an earful of you mother fu**** for soo long from the misses it wont be funny. Id like to run a 100 shot of dry every once in a while but I just cant get the balls to do it yet. What I really want to know is how many of you have jacked something up from NOS and just dont care to mention it, if it was that safe, it would be everybodies first mod.

[mrr23]

i've put up every incident of both of my cars on just about every forum out there.

here's the video of my last incident.
http://www.stealthram.com/videos/caronfire.wmv

of course, don't show this to your misses. it took mine three days before she would watch what i did to her car. needless to say, it's retired from racing. the nitrous is still on the car.

now, you might think it was from the nitrous. nope, it was from a sudden loss of oil pressure. but, it had to be from the nitrous, right? nope.

[mrr23]

let me find the airflow formula and i'll show you that even at 2000 rpms, the air is flowing so fast through the motor, that you still aren't going have the famed "puddling" issue that people are scared of.

had someone calculate this at the intake opening for me.

Max power @ 2000? or part-throttle cruise? Stock or modified engine? It's about 165 cfm @ 2000 with WOT (wide open throttle) producing max power thru headers and open exhaust. That's about 55 ft/sec (or 37.5 mph) at the intake opening for the WOT condition quoted above.

air/fuel traveling at 37.5 mph A 2000 rpms is pretty fast. fuel just doesn't have time to 'puddle'. you might get some on the walls, but not enough to matter. even still ,the main problem is overfilling the cylinders to the point where, during the reversion process, it backs up into the intake and has nowhere to go. when the overlap period, where the intake and exhaust valve are open at the same time, happens, you still have fuel/air being burned. this is when you get the 'backfire' because the exhaust speed isn't enough to pull the burning air/fuel out the exhaust.

now, this doesn't happen NA, say at idle, because there just isn't enough to light off. which is why, we have to compress the mixture to get it to a point to where it will.

i have had my dry kit on my LT1 years ago backfire back into the intake. reason why is the higher cylinder pressures were blowing out the spark plug due to a weak spark problem. changed plugs and wires and went away for about a month. added a mallory hyfire IV ignition box and never came back. go figure, a dry kit backfiring.

[preppy]

Ive used the nx kit at 150 on several cars and never had a problem, except getting traction below 3rd gear with street tires, It comes in very hard and nx kits are rated at the rear wheels i beleive. The most fun you can have for 589.00 dollars. you can put the kit on yourself the first time in about 6hr. with regular hand tools and a shrader valve stem opener