is this a decent deal

[jefff82]

so I got the firebird. ben driving it for a couple days now.ordered a slp lid k n filter and am getting a magnaflow muffler as well from the local muffler shop. he suggested doing 3 inch from the cat back as well. will there be any real gains off the 3'' pipe and muffler

[jefff82]

only issue ive noticed is I think the rear shocks might need replaced. hearing some noise from the rear pass side where the shock is. not sure if been replaced or not but with almost 130k on it figured its time. any suggestions on better than stock shocks for the rears. just using the car as a part time driver since my Honda gets the good gas mileage

[SMWS6TA]

so I got the firebird. ben driving it for a couple days now.ordered a slp lid k n filter and am getting a magnaflow muffler as well from the local muffler shop. he suggested doing 3 inch from the cat back as well. will there be any real gains off the 3'' pipe and muffler

SEND THE K&N filter back......if used improperly the oil will kill the MAF over time. If you insist on keeping the K&N dry it properly before putting it back in. K&N filters have VERY LITTLE love here from members.


Any time you let the exhaust open up to let it breath is always best. Slight gain but not anything you'll be able to tell. Get some LT headers and you'll feel the gains then. You'll like Magnaflow. Nice rumble on stock and headers without the rasp. I have it myself.

only issue ive noticed is I think the rear shocks might need replaced. hearing some noise from the rear pass side where the shock is. not sure if been replaced or not but with almost 130k on it figured its time. any suggestions on better than stock shocks for the rears. just using the car as a part time driver since my Honda gets the good gas mileage

For what your currently using I would just go with a heavy duty OEM shock. No point in investing in $400-800 shocks for a DD. The noise could also be a bushing going out. Best to left it up and look at the suspension over.


In fact now you have it do a detail inspection and fix/replace the little items that should be addressed to make it a solid ride. Enjoy it for a while and get use to it before you start considering mods. But beware once the mod bug bites it's hard to stop.. You have no idea how many times it starts out with ....oh headers and a lid will be all I do......yr or two later.....You've touched almost everything...

[SMWS6TA]

I would also recommend senting your ECM to Frost for a mail order tune. His tune will help your car alot and open up some HP that the factory tune restricts. If it's an auto he can change the shift points for optimal shifting. If interested go to TunedbyFrost.com

[jefff82]

what kind of gains can be seen with a basically stock car with lid and catback. ive always had a good experience with k n as long as you don't go crazy with the oil. and of course let it dry out a lil. my car is auto. what kind of turn around is the frost tune

[pajeff02]

I agree -- give everything a good once over on the car just to be sure it is all ok. In addition to suspension bushings wearing out, these cars have fragile rear ends, rear wheel bearings sometimes give out, and there have been a couple of members that have had brake calipers come loose and flop around.

+1 on ditching any style of oiled cotton gauze air filter.

[SMWS6TA]

If you sent it on a Fri, you'll have it back by the next Fri using priority mail form UPS, if you send/return via FEDEX/UPS then less time. He does the tunes as soon as they come in.


This is off his site for basic mail order tunes for $150

Mail order tunes (no street/dyno tuning) consist of (this is general, the tune will be custom based on your modifications):
Rear O2, AIR & EGR delete
Fan temp adjustment
Speedo recal for different rear end gear ratio
Remove CAGS (if M6)
Auto tranny tuning including adjustment to shift speed and firmness, torque reduction stepped down, shift-point change, changes for stall converters
New spark/timing maps (makes HP!)
WOT fueling adjustment (makes HP!)
Improved knock handling
Throttle cracker adjustment
Many small performance oriented changes

[theorangeguy]

I 2nd everything said about K&N filters...first thing I did when I bought my TA was clean the MAF and throttle body...and then tossed the K&N it came with in the trash lol

[jefff82]

I 2nd everything said about K&N filters...first thing I did when I bought my TA was clean the MAF and throttle body...and then tossed the K&N it came with in the trash lol

I didn't think a filter would be this bad. what filter is recommended.

[jefff82]

I think the noise was spare tire and jack. wasn't screwed down. I will tell next time I take it out

[SMWS6TA]

that will drive you nuts looking for it...

[jefff82]

that will drive you nuts looking for it...

what filter is recomended

[pajeff02]

Any dry media filter is your best choice -- I run an Amsoil Ea in our car. Even an off the shelf paper filter from Purolator, AC or Fram is preferred over K&N.

[jefff82]

What does the oil do to the mad. I would have never guessed a paper filter over a k n. Same with the SLP filter. Is the amsoil a high flow filter

[pajeff02]

The oil from a filter such as a K&N will adhere to the sensor wires on the MAF. Dirt will then stick to this oily film and act to insulate the wires, which in turn throws off the MAF's signal to the PCM. Essentially, it will report less than actual airflow. The MAF works by maintaining the wires at a set temperature and measures the amount of voltage needed to maintain this temp. The more air flowing across the MAF, the higher the voltage to keep it at temp. Other lesson here is to not mess with the MAF -- do not deblade, descreen or port it as you will alter its calibration. Our MAF was hacked up on our car when we bought it and the engine had an off-idle stumble. Replaced the MAF and the problem was resolved.

As to the air filter itself, an oiled cotton gauze filter simply allows way to much dirt into your engine. This is not an issue with either a paper or nanofiber type dry filter media. Advertising hype aside, you will not feel any difference in your engine's power utilizing different air filters - I run paper filters in all our other cars and change them at 12,000 miles. The Amsoil Ea can be cleaned and reused so, like a K&N (and this is the only similarity), it is essentially a lifetime air filter and this helps offset the intial higher investment.

[0rion]

psshhh.....I've ran the same K&N filter since 1999. Just don't over oil it and clean your MAF every oil change.

[jefff82]

Do you wipe the pieces in the maf down or just spray cleaner on it

[Firebirdjones]

I just use an MAF cleaner in an aerosol can, spray it down and that's good enough. It will clean and evaporate pretty quickly. Some people have felt it necessary to take Q-tips dipped in alcohol and lightly rub on the wire. I don't, it's pretty fragile. Simply spraying and leaving it alone is good enough. If it's dirty you'll see it roll off as you spray.

As far as K&N's, a few people seem to have problems. I think over oiling is the big reason, or possibly oiling the wrong side I've used them for many years without any ill affects on the MAF. Just have to make sure to lightly oil them, I also prefer to soak up any access around the edges with a paper towel, and make sure to oil only the inlet side of the filter. There are literally millions of these things in service but I've only seen a handfull of complaints.

I also have the amsoil nano filter in one of the cars. Nice filter, no oil required, yet it's reusable and easy to clean with light compressed air. If I had a choice I'd continue with the amsoil filters, my only issue with them though is that they don't make them for classic car applications that fit some of the more specific air cleaners,,,,,because of this I keep using K&N's on the older stuff (no MAF's to worry about anyway)

[0rion]

no.....you'll break the wires if you try to wipe them down. Just hose them off with maf cleaner.

[Firebirdjones]

My thoughts exactly.