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09-10-2013, 04:36 PM #21
These are the images
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09-13-2013, 06:27 PM #22
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
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- North Jersey
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- 11,496
Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Ouch!! That's what I was talking about. You could search your local junkyard for a used LS1 or do what other members here have done...go with an LQ4/9 block. Similar to the LS but iron. Your intake manifold and accessories(alternator, air con/brackets) will bolt to the LQ just fine. Others will chime in here to help out some more.
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09-13-2013, 06:31 PM #23
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09-13-2013, 06:43 PM #24
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- North Jersey
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- 11,496
Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
I haven't heard anything bad about the LQ blocks. More durable than the LS when it comes to adding nitrous or boost. Can be bored/stroked as well. Your old block is worthless with that crack in it.
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09-13-2013, 06:54 PM #25
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- Jan 2009
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- 11,496
Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
An LQ block can be had for less than a grand I believe. I could be wrong.
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09-13-2013, 07:08 PM #26
Ill look into that then. To fully built the motor back with the block should be less than a new motor or what you think?
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09-13-2013, 07:12 PM #27
- Join Date
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- North Jersey
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- 11,496
Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
I would just swap the intake manifold and the accessories onto the LQ block and drop it in. Remember, you have a choice of 5.3 or 6.0 if I'm correct.
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09-13-2013, 07:15 PM #28
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09-13-2013, 09:16 PM #29
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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- 11,767
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I'm currently in the process of build my 6 liter.
There's some more to it then just swapping over. There are pros and cons to this like every build. For iron blocks it's added weight. Here are some highlights.
You need to look for specific years to make it an easy swap.
The LQ4 or 9's are what you are looking for. The 9 is preferred because it comes with flat top pistons while the -4 comes is dish. The difference between the 2 is the -9 has compression around 10:4.1 while the -4 is 9:5.1. More compression = more HP. Now if you are building a FI build you want the -4 pistons because it helps in boost applications.
Ideal yrs for -4 are 00-04. The reason is the crank is the same exact size as the LS1. In the pre 99 yrs the crank is a little bit longer. And more importantly the reluctor wheel is 24x in those yrs, after 04 it is 58x. If you get a 58x you have 3 choices. (1) swap your crank (if still good) over, (2) remove and press on the 24x wheel off the LS1 crank (only need to do this if the LS1 crank is trash), or (3) you can get a converter box that goes from 58x to 24x. Cost a bit and adds one more electrical thing that can go wrong.
Yes everything on the LS1 can swap over minus the pistons. For the post 04' yrs they are all -9's and you have the reluctor wheel issue.
Now in regards to bumping the compression up for the -4's you can do like me and get a set of flat top pistons. You will need to have a shop balance the crank and pistons.
Like Rich said, with iron blocks they handle boost much better. Where Aluminum blocks run 3-8 lbs boost, iron blocks can handle 23-28 lbs (other things needed to do this). Common builds over stock are 370, 402, & 408 ci. Each has it's pros and cons. It comes down to how much you want to spend.
Jodi just finish rebuilding her's and it's almost identical to mine. She dyno just a hair under 450 to the wheels. When she upgrades the injectors to 42 lbs and installs a Racetronix FP she'll get some better numbers. I have those so when mine gets finish I'll compare the builds.
In my signature is my 6 liter build, If you want you can click on and ask me anything.
Ohh and I picked up my 6 liter short block for $325. I found out later why. #8 piston was bent, looks like it was hydro-locked. Most long blocks I've seen go for around $900-$1200.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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09-15-2013, 07:15 PM #30
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