Buyers remorse...

**0rion** · 08-22-2012, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by MagRes50Cal

livernois motorsports in dearborn, mi is a very well known (at least locally here in michigan) speed shop. they said they "might" dyno tune it for 750-800... "might" because it has 149k miles on it. they usually dont dyno tune cars with over 65k miles for some reason. i assured him the engine was recently redone,trans replaced, and only the body had that many miles. i had already anticipated that bill and set the space on the credit card aside before the ride even got here.

they do have a good rep but they're also damn expensive. I'm sure they say "might" for liability reasons. It's smart of them to do that. If your car breaks on their dyno they don't want you taking them to court over it. Most places have some sort of safety in place to protect themselves. Nothing wrong with that. Have you and your step father had a chance to work on it anymore? Get any of it figured out?

**ResurrectedWS6** · 08-22-2012, 10:33 PM

the goofy kid hanging out the window followed by the loud revs in the vid would have been reason enough NOT to buy it. ADULT owned is the best way to go.

**SuperSSguy** · 08-22-2012, 11:25 PM

While watching OP video a pop up of other videos came up..if you can?...Watch ''Death of a Trans Am'' FUUUUUDGE!!

**ResurrectedWS6** · 08-22-2012, 11:47 PM

yeah, i watched that dude build that car and blow it up. pull up the vid of "trans am collides with bridge" OOUOUOUOUOUOUUUCCCHCHCHCH!

**SuperSSguy** · 08-23-2012, 12:35 AM

^^.......OU-EE...................

....must a got a boo-boo ?

**chuckie669** · 08-23-2012, 04:16 AM

Livernois tuned my g8 when I had it tho a paid for it. Good service. Frost tuned my trans am which was phenomenal. Both treated me great..

**az gt eater** · 08-23-2012, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by silverWS6

Also silver is a great color!!!

Pewter ftw!

**MagRes50Cal** · 08-26-2012, 06:01 PM

car is up for sale. dont want/need the headache of dealing with it. taking a loss and selling it for the 6k purchase price. tax, title, license, transport fee, i.a.c, and such cost near 2k. i even have 2 brand new still in the box slp loudmouth II mufflers, 2 hooker turn downs, and 4 sleeve style walker clamps. ill throw that it if someone buys it before friday. if not theyre going back to summit racing. thanks for the input everyone. i appreciate it.

**0rion** · 08-26-2012, 09:59 PM

hate to hear that.....I still think the issues could be worked out. Damn shame you aren't local to me or I'd look at it for you. Hope the sale goes smoothly for you. Me, personally, I would ask more than that for the car.

**SuperSSguy** · 08-26-2012, 11:21 PM

..............^^ Same here what a shame! Too bad, but you gotta do what you feel is right for you. Good luck ...are you gonna look for another LS ?

**MagRes50Cal** · 08-27-2012, 01:51 AM

found one down the street from my dad. black on black 6 speed. 6,600.00... clean and it runs... lol found another one i really really want fully built with procharger for 12k but as usual thats out of my price range. its either another ws6 or back to my original plan of getting the harley ive always wanted. i wouldnt feel comfortable asking more than that knowing theres issues with the car. unlike the guy that sold it to me i have a conscience.

**RichWS6** · 08-27-2012, 06:55 AM

Originally Posted by MagRes50Cal

garden city michigan. a few hours south of bay city. my family was from standish, pinchonning, and bay city when we my great grand parents came to the u.s... my family still owns the original farm.

I grew up there, we used to race up and down Ford Road all the time. Then everyone moved to racing down Telegraph Rd.

**MagRes50Cal** · 08-27-2012, 04:39 PM

drove the car home from my dads. 20+ miles. a good portion of it highway. to date the most ive driven the car. and ill be damned if im not falling in love with it. it seems to take off better than it did before and even run a bit better. im guessing its learning everything all over again. i have it hooked up to the trickle charger for now hoping it can stay ahead of the short and keep the battery charged. while im still willing to entertain offers on it i think i might just continue throwing money at it and maybe keep it.

on a funny side note a nice red ram air t/a pulled up next to me at merriman and palmer... not quite sure what he was thinking but needless to say it wasnt pretty. i learned from a dead dig and about 3/4 pedal the car launches hard and breaks the tires loose for probably about 20 feet or so before it rehooks and takes off again. he learned you dont mess with the "PWNTIAC"...

**0rion** · 08-27-2012, 05:11 PM

do your headlights go up and down normally? Can you take a picture of the front part of the motor under the throttle body and post it? I want to make sure you didn't cap off the return line for the heads. You really want coolant moving through there to keep from detonating.

**MagRes50Cal** · 08-27-2012, 08:02 PM

headlights move fine but from time to time even with my limited (damaged) hearing i can hear the driver side motor make a tick tick noise even with the key off. the line between the heads is still intact but not hooked up to the throttle body. in fact when i got it there was a "T" in it toward the driver side that wasnt capped and it spewed coolant. i capped it off. ordered a new mass air and replacing the slp one as all the info and one comment earlier in the thread states the slp is not good. also picked up a new k&n and a set of msd 8.5 mm plug wires. theyre saying their coils (msd-82458) wont be available until later this year. they show up in the summit catalog but not on the website. they show up on msd's website but when i click the buy it now tab it reroutes me... guess ill have to wait.

**pajeff02** · 08-28-2012, 02:46 AM

Honestly, the stock coils are just fine. I wouldn't waste the $$ on MSD units. The coolant air bleed/crossover can bypass the throttle body, but should run to a nipple on the radiator just beneath the cap. I just ran a bypass on mine using two different sizes of coated brake line and short sections of rubber fuel line:

**redbird555** · 08-28-2012, 06:01 AM

Originally Posted by MagRes50Cal

headlights move fine but from time to time even with my limited (damaged) hearing i can hear the driver side motor make a tick tick noise even with the key off. the line between the heads is still intact but not hooked up to the throttle body. in fact when i got it there was a "T" in it toward the driver side that wasnt capped and it spewed coolant. i capped it off. ordered a new mass air and replacing the slp one as all the info and one comment earlier in the thread states the slp is not good. also picked up a new k&n and a set of msd 8.5 mm plug wires. theyre saying their coils (msd-82458) wont be available until later this year. they show up in the summit catalog but not on the website. they show up on msd's website but when i click the buy it now tab it reroutes me... guess ill have to wait.

Ya I def wouldn't waste time on the msd coils the stockers are fine for any future power adder. And I say keep the cacr if its clean and just needs some tlc. In the end you will have a stout runner for a decent price. Although i must say 750 for a dyno tune seems a bit high usually they are around 400-500. Anyway just to let you know the slp mufflers are still going to be pretty effin loud lol especially if they are dumped before the axle with a cam. There really isnt any exhaust that can be dumped and sound quiet lol I know you dont want it but a more manageable exhaust would be a nice catback like Magnaflow, Corsa, Gmmg, etc just because they say catback doesnt mean they wont work with headers. You just need to get a y pipe to mate up to the headers and any standard catback will bolt up to there. You could also do some bassani true duals that go over the axle but the system isnt cheap.

I think after the tune the car should also run better, I'd do all the regular maintenance things as mentioned like hoses, oil, coolant flush etc. Not only will this eliminate or help find leaks it will also give you a safe peace of mind knowing that all the fluids are good. My advice on the oil leak is fix it if you can right now but if not using a good dino oil will help slow or stop the leak, synthetic by nature is slipperier and will leak easier. Plus if you change the oil regularly the added cost of synthetic doesnt really out weigh the pros.

And as far as the headlight motors go can you hear them running even after the headlight goes down? Do the headlight go up and down normally also? If not most likely the gears inside are stripped causing problems, you can take the housings apart and install brass gears but honestly its easier and more reliable to just go to the store and get a couple new ones.

**az gt eater** · 08-28-2012, 04:00 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

And as far as the headlight motors go can you hear them running even after the headlight goes down? Do the headlight go up and down normally also? If not most likely the gears inside are stripped causing problems, you can take the housings apart and install brass gears but honestly its easier and more reliable to just go to the store and get a couple new ones.

I agree with everything you say except this. It is not that hard to pull the housings apart and put in the brass gears. I did it very easily, and it was way cheaper than spending money putting a known problem back in.

**MagRes50Cal** · 08-28-2012, 05:12 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

Ya I def wouldn't waste time on the msd coils the stockers are fine for any future power adder. And I say keep the cacr if its clean and just needs some tlc. In the end you will have a stout runner for a decent price. Although i must say 750 for a dyno tune seems a bit high usually they are around 400-500. Anyway just to let you know the slp mufflers are still going to be pretty effin loud lol especially if they are dumped before the axle with a cam. There really isnt any exhaust that can be dumped and sound quiet lol I know you dont want it but a more manageable exhaust would be a nice catback like Magnaflow, Corsa, Gmmg, etc just because they say catback doesnt mean they wont work with headers. You just need to get a y pipe to mate up to the headers and any standard catback will bolt up to there. You could also do some bassani true duals that go over the axle but the system isnt cheap.

I think after the tune the car should also run better, I'd do all the regular maintenance things as mentioned like hoses, oil, coolant flush etc. Not only will this eliminate or help find leaks it will also give you a safe peace of mind knowing that all the fluids are good. My advice on the oil leak is fix it if you can right now but if not using a good dino oil will help slow or stop the leak, synthetic by nature is slipperier and will leak easier. Plus if you change the oil regularly the added cost of synthetic doesnt really out weigh the pros.

And as far as the headlight motors go can you hear them running even after the headlight goes down? Do the headlight go up and down normally also? If not most likely the gears inside are stripped causing problems, you can take the housings apart and install brass gears but honestly its easier and more reliable to just go to the store and get a couple new ones.

jacked it up today when i got home from work. took off the old "mufflers" and hung the new slps under it. have to buy different clamps and new hangers to connect the turndowns to the mufflers and hold everything tight to the car. on a good note i discovered the 3 inch exhaust has an "x" pipe in it. i (along with half the block) found out the slps are called loudmouths for a reason. but they did knock a few decibles off the noise and gave it a unique new tone as well.

thanks for the heads up on the coils. i ran a full msd 6al in my old mustang and loved it. thought maybe this would help. ill keep the wires though.

the previous owner may have been dishonest on the overall condition of the car but all the fluids, belts, and hoses were changed when he did the cam and installed the new radiator. it was all barely broked in when i got it. its for sure a stout runner. if it runs as hard as it does now with the bugs in it i cant imagine what it will be like when its all debugged.

took it to work today. left the house with JUST under 1/4 of a tank thinking id be fine there and back... had to fill up about 3 miles from work. i work 20 minutes from my house (at 45-50 mph)... im guessing this isnt a daily driver by any means. and sadly i didnt run in to either of the people i normally do on my way in... both of which need a dose of ws6 humiliation... a thunderchicken super coupe (with a "svt" label on it and a fake hood scoop), and this older white guy in a rs camaro whos forever trying to get the better of my cvpi... and never does. im sure the t/a would really make him feel bad.

headlights go up and down fine. even light up. but the faint ticking noise seems to come from the driver side headlight even with the key off. not all the time though...

**MagRes50Cal** · 08-28-2012, 05:15 PM

thanks for the input on the radiator line. its some kind of aftermarket job and doesnt have the normal plumbing. ill see if i can find a free line to plug in to but if i recall theyre all used except one really big one with is sealed with a bolt and hose... which leaks... very slowly but it does leak...