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Thread: Replacing window motor REGULATOR
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02-10-2012, 09:42 AM #21
I already paid 40+ for the regulator man, I might have to just do it anyway.. When I took it into the shop for the passenger side awhile back, they told me to get both parts just in case.. the passenger side wouldn't roll up or down at all though. I didn't think about that when my drivers side just wont roll up all the way.
This is a amateur question, but what kind of lubricant do you suggest I use? And how much of it? lol
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02-10-2012, 12:06 PM #22Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
white lithium grease
also works great on door jams that squeak.
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02-10-2012, 04:50 PM #23
Got it
will that grease work for the headlight gears too when the time comes that the plastic ones strip? I'm just waiting to buy the copper ones haha
So I went down to Checker to get the Grease and something to glue back on my water-guard just behind the door panel..They said they had no idea what would work for gluing the rain guard back on. Any suggestions?
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02-10-2012, 04:58 PM #24
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02-10-2012, 05:21 PM #25
Thank you... so I'll get some Loctite for the screws and some weather stripping adhesive for the rain-guard.
Is there anything else I should know about replacing the motor and/or regulator? Has anybody replaced both before? I'm a bit nervous tackling it on my own, but I need to save the money for LT's.
And how is drilling out the rivets? Is it hard to find the location of where the rivets are? Its my understanding you gotta drill a few holes to expose them.
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02-10-2012, 10:01 PM #26Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
I used the thread below and looked at the pics real good.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-ins...ow-motor-8307/
Then I used an 1/8" bit for doing a small hole in the area that I thought the rivets might be.
Next look into the hole and make an adjustment if needed.
Once you zero in on the rivets go to a 1/2" bit that will give you a big enough hole to use rivets again or use a short bolt & locking nut.
If you used the bolt/nut method I recommend loctite just to make sure it doesn't vibrate off.
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02-11-2012, 03:11 PM #27
I'm buying the black weather adhesive tonight! I hope its removable and doesn't damage the moisture barrier come time to remove the window motor again..when it goes out..again.!
Looks good dude, that is the exact tutorial I was going to base my repairs on. Than I'll probably just have to play it by gut when I reach the regulator. Wish me luck lol
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02-11-2012, 03:31 PM #28
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02-11-2012, 04:27 PM #29
hahaha noted
I know its like an hour long job on just the motor itself for a first timer. Let's just hope I don't screw anything up!
And yes, i'll try not to tear the door apart XD
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02-25-2012, 10:19 PM #30
Just a quick update; Finally got the sucker done and it works near perfectly! God damn that whole thing took me like 3 hours to get the new motor in there. I guess I'm just technically slow as hell.
Has anybody reading this actually done the regulator themselves? I noticed there's a motor connected to the teeth of the regulator (at least the part I got when i bought it on ebay). Why is that there? and Geez That whole thing looked like a lot of time if i decided to actually replace it myself.
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02-29-2012, 10:15 AM #31Senior Member
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Sunset Orange Metalic- 2001 Camaro SS
Glad you knocked it out and everything works good.
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02-29-2012, 08:45 PM #32
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