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Thread: started my header project
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05-26-2011, 05:29 PM #21
welp, i have hit a wall with the Y pipe that i'm not sure i can get over..... it is a very poor design and i have 3 major issues.
1) it is hitting the torque arm... i would have to take 1/2" out of it in order to make enough room... there is NO way in hell i'm going to chop that much out of the torque arm. i don't have a clue if an aftermarket one would help or not because i don't know how much bigger the stocker is nor do i know the dimensions of the aftermarket one.
here is a pic of it hitting and it must go up another 1/2" at least:
2) can't fit the cross brace back on
3) y on the drivers side is about 1/4" or less away from the fuel lines.
in this pic you see that the mount on the Y don't even come close to the factory exhaust mount so there will be NO way for me to hold it in place. i know any exhaust shop could just cut it and weld it but how the fuck could i get there if i don't bolt this up?
at this point i'm frustrated... well, frustrated isn't even the word for what i am right now... i want to start hitting the car with my 10lb sledge and not stop till my hands are blistered and bloody. then i want to start hitting my head with it.
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05-26-2011, 11:09 PM #22
1st pic: Is it hitting the torque arm when the torque arm is at full droop (i.e axle hanging free)? If we're only talking about 1/2 inch of clearance needed, bfh the y pipe. It isnt going to cost you any noticeable flow.
2- space the cross brace down with washers and longer bolts if necessary.
3- you can get some aeroquip insulation and cut it and wrap it around the fuel lines, or undo the lines, slide on the insulation hose, and reconnect the lines. Use zip ties to secure it. You can also bfh the pipe a bit too to give yourself an air gap.
4- if you cant use a long bolt and spacers to make the hanger work, mark where it needs to go in order to line up, grind it off if you can, and take it to an exhaust shop to reweld in the right spot (assuming you dont have a welder).
Or go get a better y pipe. I dont see anything that cant be worked with, but it is a pain in the ass. Been there done that.
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05-27-2011, 02:35 PM #23
thanks, after taking some time last night to think about what i need to do and reading your post i made up my mind to BFH the Y, take my die grinder to the cross brace, and install my poly motor mount. between all three of those i was able to get the y in with out touching anything and some room to spare.
i had to install the cross brace backwards and that actually worked after i took off some of the lip my my grinder.
so my headers are now complete. i just need to get the wires on but i have a few that will be a big pain in the ass to keep off the headers. i have the heat socks but i'm not sure that even those should be touching the headers.
i still need to order some parts... i need a 160* thermostat and i made up my mind that i'm going to buy the o2 extenders so i don't have to worry about cutting and splicing the o2 lines. tomorrow i will clean the old intake rtv gasket off the block and finish up the intake. oh, valve cover gaskets are done now also.
here is the y now clearing everything with some room to spare:
headers are done
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05-27-2011, 03:16 PM #24
Modding a car can be a bitch sometimes.
Its good to take your time and step back to figure somethings out.
Glad it worked out for you.2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS A6
1999 TA A4 NBM
12.265 at 110.52mph
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05-31-2011, 06:12 AM #25
ok, well my project is almost complete. i'm just waiting for my 160* stat, magnaflow exhaust and o2 extension cables. these should be here tomorrow and i will be ready for first start.. can't wait.
i made up my mind that it was going to be too loud/raspy with LM2 so i went with the magnaflow.
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05-31-2011, 07:59 AM #26
been taking some crap from a few people about why i am bothering to mod an LT1. so, since i should be a bit closer to the stock almighty LS1 i just put this on order..
just for kicks, don't care if i'm faster, slower or not
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05-31-2011, 01:23 PM #27
Seriously? People are that stupid on here? Those are the same ones who probably get beat by a modded 4-banger but still say their car is better.
They need kicked in the head a few times. Dolts. They are "dolts" because they will have to look that word up. haaha
F^ck em.........get that car done so we can go to the track son!
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06-01-2011, 12:53 AM #28
You need to still insulate those fuel lines where they're close to the exhaust. Fuel heating up is a bad thing, and insulation is cheap. And that pipe runs right by plastic fittings which lock the lines in place. You do not want those plastic fittings failing and fuel spilling right onto an exhaust pipe.
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06-01-2011, 02:50 AM #29
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06-01-2011, 05:23 AM #30
ok, now i'm a happy man. i placed an order over the weekend for my magnaflow and o2 extendors... they are the last big items i needed for this project. i can't say who the vendor is because they are not a sponsor here but what i can say is that the items were shipped yesterday for no charge and are already on the truck here for delivery TODAY! now i have to make it through my work day knowing the last few major items that i need are sitting at my door. first start should be tonight!!!!
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06-01-2011, 02:05 PM #31
Try to find a local raceshop that has parts for drag racers and/or circle track guys. They'll have aeroquip fittings and hose and insulation. That stuff is awesome, and you can probably buy it by the foot.
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06-07-2011, 05:17 AM #32
complete. going to the local performance shop this week to have the magnaflow welded up to the Y. can't wait to hear this thing.
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06-07-2011, 12:22 PM #33
Cool,glad your done
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06-08-2011, 11:51 AM #34
SWEET MAN!
All we need to do now is take that baby to the track so I can hear her scream.
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06-22-2011, 01:28 PM #35
just wanted to update with a sound clip since i have not done so... the wife got on it a little to soon after it started up for the first time today...will they ever learn?
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khl6PRwskwE[/ame]96 Trans AM WS6 (only 36k miles): Pacesetter LTs, ORY, magnaflow, !egr, !air, BMR STB, BMR LCAs, UMI SFCs, Alpine type R components up front, 2 12" Alpine type E subs, Alpine CDE-102 deck, Alpine 500m amp
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06-23-2011, 05:01 PM #36
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- TEXAS... U mad?
- Posts
- 6,158
Black / Stryker Blue- 2K WS.6/ 2K9 G8GT
Very nice!
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06-23-2011, 05:45 PM #37
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