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Thread: Clutch won't engage
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07-25-2010, 05:38 AM #21
Geez, I even have a hand pump. All I need is the stopper
Sorry for the hijack, Phnatom. Do this^^^^^
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08-19-2010, 08:03 PM #22
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Fairfax, VA
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- 42
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With the mighty vac method does the bleeder screw need to cracked to suck the fluid out of the line? Seems to me that it would just create a vaccum and not be able to suck any fluid otherwise?
I just bought one (useful for brake bleeding to) and plan to use this method. Fluid in my car is DIRTY! And the slave makes a weird noise sometimes (hope there might be air in the line causing this)?
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08-19-2010, 09:31 PM #23
For the bleeding purposes ONLY, no... the bleeder screw does not need to be opened. It has a cup to dump air bubbles/fluid into. Everything stays tight, and that's specifically why this is the BEST way to bleed a clutch. There really is no better way, period.
Now, to flush the fluid, yes crack the bleeder screw. Add fluid as needed. Bleed as needed. Such a easy process that it really makes swapping clutch fluid a 30 minute job. And if your a even semi serious drag racer, change that fluid twice a year IMO.
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08-20-2010, 03:53 PM #24
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
^^^Yep. If you wanna bleed air out, use the mity vac on the reservoir with the bleeder closed.
If you wanna flush the fluid, crack the bleeder screw, bled like you would brakes, and make sure to keep the reservoir topped off (it empties quickly).
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08-22-2010, 07:20 PM #25
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Fairfax, VA
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- 41
Thanks, I used the mighty vac and got a little air out. And got some of the dirty fluid out and put new DOT4 in.
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