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Thread: A4 launch Help
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04-22-2007, 05:47 PM #21
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04-23-2007, 05:39 PM #22
If you "burn those street tires up" , all you will do is glaze them. If you do that your car will spin even worse. Give them one good dry hop type spin to clean them off, and then roll your car out rather than just stomping on it.
You always hear people talking about the old "driver mod" , it's the cheapest, and one of the best mods you can make...
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04-23-2007, 05:54 PM #23
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04-23-2007, 10:38 PM #24
i love the 4.10 especially with my 3500 stall, i have yet to be beat off the line so far.. and the freeways not to bad.. i usually cruise at about 60 and thats about 2400-2600 rpm
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04-24-2007, 03:39 AM #25
Since you have only had the car for 4 days, it just sounds to me you need a little more practice. Plus the street is entirely different than the track where there is alot of rubber and VHT on the ground.
Mine is also an auto, and I can footbrake it a little on the hard side and make the tires spin easily if I really push it. But launching on the stock street rubber is actually rather easy with the stock stall speed.
I bring it up to about 1,000 rpms, let off the brake, and before the car even rolls 5 feet I have my foot buried in the carpet, not even a tire squeak. Just practice and find what your car likes. Every car is a little different, and cold asphalt (since you live in Canada) along with cold air temps will make your problem even worse. Larry.
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04-24-2007, 08:31 AM #26
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thanks for all the replies guys.. ill be sure to get some more practice in this weekend, i was lookin to get a stall anyways so thatll be even more of a reason to do it... i think im gonna spend money first on mods to help with hooking up, then headers cam etc cuz what good are all those things if i cant even get the car to get off the line without spinnin tires
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04-24-2007, 10:50 AM #27
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Artic White- 00 SS Vert.
JIGGER RACIN'
2000 Camaro SS, vert., auto., LS6 intake manifold, SLP lid, K&N filter, SLP LoudMouth II, C5 Z06 replica 17x9.5 rims
1/4 mile time = 13.310 sec. @ 105.22 mph, 2.051 60'
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2939958
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...amarolaeft.jpg
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04-24-2007, 11:31 AM #28
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NBM- '98 Ram Air Formula
So much typing and so few answers! The poor guy wanted help launching his current setup not how to spend $3-4k on wide rims/tires, tc, and built tranny.
With your set up the last thing you want to do is mash the gas from a stand still which is what you are doing. Learn to roll on the gas until you have some momentum. This takes practice and PATIENCE! Patience enought to not give it too much gas too soon. The hardest part is to not blow the tires off right off the line.
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04-24-2007, 01:34 PM #29
+1.
Start in D not OD...
I will only add that as my original tires got older (30k miles) the rubber seems harder and breaks free easier than when they were new.
I have the SS rear ratio (lower gear) and it doesn't bog. Nor do I think it would with slicks since you could push the RPM's higher before launch. Parts would break before it bogged me thinks.
It does lose traction for a split second when it shifts into second also but I don't think there is anything you can do about that in stock mode.
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04-24-2007, 01:38 PM #30
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All Black- 83, 87, 02 All WS6 T/As
How does putting it into D make a difference? It doesn't get to 4th anyway...
-Geno
1983 Black WS6 "WindCharger"
1987 Black WS6 "WS87"
2002 Black WS6 "Silver Streak"
Sold the other four f-bodies
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04-24-2007, 01:46 PM #31
As I understand it the trans holds for the shift point longer in D than in OD by controlling the pressure electronically.
Someone with a lot more A4 smarts than me can jump in anytime here....
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04-24-2007, 01:56 PM #32
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NBM- '98 Ram Air Formula
In wide open throttle it won't change the shift but in part throttle it will hold a gear till a higher rpm. I am pretty sure it does change the line pressure settings which make the shift more crisp/fast.
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04-24-2007, 02:22 PM #33
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All Black- 83, 87, 02 All WS6 T/As
Interesting......
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04-24-2007, 02:42 PM #34
i never said for him to spend 3-4k on stuff..i simply said why hes times suck with drag radials and no stall..
all he needs to get some nice times are stall $400-$800, tires $200-$400 just gotta shop around. thats it.. stall and tires will really wake up a car.. if he wants even better times then gears is the next least expensive..then headers,then cam..and so on so forth.. the point is you need to pay to play.. and how fast you wanna go is based on how much you want to spend.
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04-24-2007, 03:21 PM #35
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NBM- '98 Ram Air Formula
I know what you were trying to say but I figured that he might not. Someone also mentioned built tranny which with install of everything will get up to $3K easily. I won't argue with you but if he doesn't know how to drive now none of that will really help. Plus his problem is not that he knows how to drive and wants to go faster. It is that he doesn't know how to drive (no offense guy) and wants some advice on how to launch what he has.
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04-24-2007, 04:10 PM #36
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04-25-2007, 03:48 PM #37
Learning the launch is definately key. 315's didn't help me a bit I hooked better with the stock 16's with a little air out of them. Now granted I have the cheap Sumitumo's but reguardless LS1's require delicacy to launch right.
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04-25-2007, 08:10 PM #38
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Now first hear my out, no one jump on my case because of what i have observed. But to me spending money on 10.5 wheels and 315 tires is a waste. Sure we can all say taht the pro stock cars have wide tires and they still hook better. And with my own personal expierence, getting wider tires for a car that doesnt have a built suspension can only do so much. Id rather spend the extra $400 on LCA's and a torque arm but thats just me
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04-26-2007, 02:33 AM #39
Ya I agree, modifying the suspension to take advantage of the power you're putting down is money better spent. Wider isn't always better. And in some cases going to a bigger wheel and tire can be heavier, more unsprung weight, and slows the car down. The downside to getting the power to the ground is the weak 7.5 rearend these cars come with. I really don't recommend much in the way of traction modifications until the rearend is upgraded to a 12 bolt or 9 inch. The stock 7.5 simply cannot take that kind of punishment for very long, especially from a 6 speed. GM really dropped the ball when it came to that part of the car.
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04-26-2007, 08:42 AM #40
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what about shift kits? sorry im a complete nub when it comes to shift kits what do they actually do? and would they improve my 60' times?
edit: what about this one? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=skuLast edited by iggz; 04-26-2007 at 08:49 AM.
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