Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 30 of 30
  1. #21
    Member tici's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Zurich - Switzerland
    Age
    56
    Posts
    117

    Red
    1998 M6 vert TA

    Is there a way to know it the tranny has been rebuilt?
    Like some number on the tag?
    The sealant between the different case parts looks like a black RTV (if this helps).
    The tranny is a 97 Borg Warner (it's stamped somewhere).

    Maybe I'm worrying too much... but I never tried another manual F-body 'cause they are pretty rare over here.

  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    metro Detroit area
    Posts
    300
    If it is original, it has paper/ organic linings. There is a tag under one of the case-to-extension housing bolts( it may be color-coded). It should have several number sets on it.
    1386-XXX = model.
    6 character julian date code.
    GM part number.
    serial number.

  3. #23
    Member tici's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Zurich - Switzerland
    Age
    56
    Posts
    117

    Red
    1998 M6 vert TA

    Quote Originally Posted by 30thbird
    If it is original, it has paper/ organic linings. There is a tag under one of the case-to-extension housing bolts( it may be color-coded). It should have several number sets on it.
    1386-XXX = model.
    6 character julian date code.
    GM part number.
    serial number.
    How do I know what it is or if it has been rebuilt?
    The "Borg Warner" name and production date is part of the casting and not stamped.
    Is the model number or the julian date that derminates what it is?

  4. #24
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    metro Detroit area
    Posts
    300
    Any ID cast into the exterior is a casting part reference only.
    An LS1 Fcar T56 is a 1386-000-020 w/Hurst, -017 w/std
    The GM number is 12552099 for the 017, 12561561 for the 020
    The build date code will start with a letter for the month( I is not used) the next two digets are the day and the last two are the last diget of the year and the shift produced. Below this code is the serial number. All of this is stamped on a metal tag bolted on the extension housing flange.
    The original RTV is a black product. Any other colored RTV indicates repair/ rework.

  5. #25
    Member tici's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Zurich - Switzerland
    Age
    56
    Posts
    117

    Red
    1998 M6 vert TA

    here my tag (which is blue)
    12552099 M0173
    13-86-017 E16106
    The RTV is black and looks original

    So... What is the year? Sorry but I don't understand.

    Thanks! Stefano

  6. #26
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    metro Detroit area
    Posts
    300
    O17 non-Hurst model built 01Dec. 1997, 3rd shift.
    The E is the change letter for the model and 16106 is the serial number.
    Last edited by 30thbird; 04-20-2006 at 05:04 AM.

  7. #27
    Member tici's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Zurich - Switzerland
    Age
    56
    Posts
    117

    Red
    1998 M6 vert TA

    so in terms of synchro rings: old style, isn't it?

    so far it shifts good, a little notchy depending on temperature and RPM, sometime it takes a moment to be able to insert the gears. I guess it's normal
    MODS: A4 > M6 conversion, SC raptor hood, Vortech V9 G-Trim SQ, homemade water-alcohol injection
    DYNO: 410 RWHP, 417 TORQUE @ 5 PSI

  8. #28
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    metro Detroit area
    Posts
    300
    Yes , it has the organic/paper-lined blocker rings and an aluminum 3/4 fork. Actually, the older rings produce a smoother shift feel.If you don't beat on the car, you can get good service the way it is. My 99 is as original and operates well. I have easy access to the upgrade parts and the resource to install them but I prefer the feel of the older parts and choose to leave it as is.

  9. #29
    Member tici's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Zurich - Switzerland
    Age
    56
    Posts
    117

    Red
    1998 M6 vert TA

    How do newer parts feel? Because they are "new" I can imagine they are better...

    I don't beat on it: to shift I apply a moderate pressure to allow the synchro rings to align the gears, than the tranny will "shift by itself". This takes up to a second but I think it's the best way to shift.

    Why force it? I'm not racing

  10. #30
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    metro Detroit area
    Posts
    300
    The new parts are more durable. That is they will take more abuse/ survive more abuse. The trade off is in the shift feel They produce a more grabby/ notchy shift feel. Since you do not drive with maximum capacity demand, you would not require the benefit of the carbon-particle parts. AND you can enjoy a smoother shift.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Question: Hurst Shifter stock?
    By Ironwolf in forum Manual Transmission
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-30-2009, 04:01 PM
  2. Stock shifter vs Hurst shifter
    By karpetcm in forum Drivetrain
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-28-2009, 10:49 AM
  3. Hurst shifter stock & hurst billet shifter
    By chadnol10 in forum Parts For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-04-2007, 06:07 PM
  4. Stock Hurst Shifter
    By killerbeez in forum Parts For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-12-2006, 07:30 PM
  5. stock shifter w/ hurst knob
    By 99z28 in forum Parts For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-15-2005, 04:34 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •