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Thread: Anyone Tried Dynamat?
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11-21-2005, 04:46 AM #1
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Burple- 1966 427 Cobra Replica
Anyone Tried Dynamat?
I'm tired of hearing every seam in my door panels rattle when I turn the stereo up. I was thinking of cutting some Dynamat to coat the panels closest to and all the way around the door speaker opening.
Much of the buzzing seems to stop just by pushing my hand flat against the speaker grille.
Anyone else tried to remedy this with Dynamat or anything else?
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11-21-2005, 09:23 AM #2
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Midnight Blue- 99' Trans Am
You can get fat mat off ebay for cheap. It is just like dynamat. I used it in my last car and it worked great. The only bad thing is it has a weird smell, but it goes away. It will make your speakers sound alot better too.
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11-21-2005, 10:48 AM #3
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hi temp mastic is the same stuff as dynomat for less than half the price. visceolastic is like dynomat super, i think. if your wanting to get rid of rattles then you want a dynomat substitute, but if your wanting to get rid of roadnoise you would want to go with something else
Brown Bread is also very good (a lot better than dynomat) and is much cheaper.
I know what rattle you're talking about. I just took the speaker grill off and used a heating gun to put hi temp mastic on them.
I also did my doors, floor, and hatch with either hi temp mastic or visceolastic. It also depends how thick you want the stuff to be. I believe that hi temp mastic is thicker (heavier) than visceolastic...if i remember correctly. I used two layers on most of my car.
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11-21-2005, 05:33 PM #4
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Black- 2000 Camaro Z28
my passenger side speaker rattled really bad, so i figured it blown and i replaced it and stopped the rattle but now my drivers side is doin it is it blown? it wasnt bad but got worse over time is it blown or can i just tighten it?
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11-21-2005, 06:31 PM #5
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get new speakers....if they're the stock speakers they suck anyways
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11-22-2005, 05:03 AM #6
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Burple- 1966 427 Cobra Replica
I just replaced my speakers so I know they're not blown. I know how that goes though. The freakin rattles are driving me nuts. It squeeks and rattles more than my '94 Mazda did.
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11-22-2005, 06:42 AM #7
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you're going to have to listen to the radio and then track each one down to get them all out. I had one or two rattles left after I put sound deadening material on my car. Both were in the hatch area.
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11-22-2005, 10:47 AM #8
I love that stuff, works great, just make sure to get the mats of it and not the spray stuff.
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11-22-2005, 01:05 PM #9
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Burple- 1966 427 Cobra Replica
Another question for y'all. Are you sticking the stuff to the actual interior door panels (the part that's rattling) or onto the door frame or even the inside of the exterior door body panel? All the pics on eBay of the eDead and Fatmat show it installed on the door frame and inside of the exterior door body panel. While I'm sure that'll cut down on road noise to a greater extent than sticking it straight on the plastic, POS rattling door panel, it doesn't seem like that would solve my problem with the door panel itself rattling (vs. a body panel or interior door component). Would I be doing a no-no by putting it on the door panel?
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11-23-2005, 06:16 AM #10
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take your door panel off and see if it still rattles. The actual door panel shouldn't be rattling (at least mine didn't....except the speaker grill). I didn't put anything on the actual door panels.
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11-23-2005, 07:28 AM #11
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Burple- 1966 427 Cobra Replica
How did you put it on the speaker grille? You said you used a heating gun... like a hot glue gun? I'm not getting it.
Thanks.
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11-23-2005, 05:28 PM #12
I just ordered some eDead from Elemental Designs since it is light(17lbs for 20 square feet) and $1 a square foot. I'm not doing the whole car, just the rear well and maybe behind the back seat to stop some noise since the LT headers(can get pretty loud). I don't want to put too much heavy sound deadening in, I like good sounding car audio, but I also like to go fast. I am pretty sure most of the sound deadening is better than nothing, is all about what fits into your budget and ease of install, plus how much extra weight it adds if you care about that.
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11-24-2005, 06:43 AM #13
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Originally Posted by Tobynine9
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11-24-2005, 05:27 PM #14
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2005 GTO
adding the sound deadening can make a huge difference. You just have to apply it to the right surfaces.
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12-03-2005, 03:10 AM #15
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Artic White- 2000 SS Camaro M6
entire inside of my car was done ... love it
Last edited by keno2095; 09-18-2006 at 08:37 AM.
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12-04-2005, 03:39 PM #16
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Burple- 1966 427 Cobra Replica
I pulled the door panels and used a latex caulk to seal all of the joints on the speaker grille. The grille doesn't rattle anymore.
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12-04-2005, 03:42 PM #17Originally Posted by keno2095
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12-06-2005, 10:52 PM #18
I don't mean to jack this thread or anything. But I installed some aftermarket infinity subs in the sail panel area and the drivers side is fine but the passenger side rattles and when i pull the speaker out it stops. I tried ghetto rigging it ( lol ) and used some plastic wraped behind it to sort of pry it out and it seemed to work but it rattled the stuff right out. Do you think if I put some dynamat behind it. It would fix the problem?
thanks.
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12-07-2005, 06:50 AM #19
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Originally Posted by MadSeason
it depends what type of material you use. I'm not sure about dynomat. But the visceolastic and high temp mastic added about 20 lbs to my car (I went over some areas twice)
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12-07-2005, 06:56 AM #20
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Originally Posted by TransAmMan
Do you know exactly where the car is rattling? If you have pinpointed the spot then any sound deadening material should take care of the problem. I think most people will agree to stay away from dynomat (it's way overpriced for what it is) Brown bread is probably the best on the market right now. I've read a few articles by audio magazines that have tested all the different kinds of sound deadening materials and Brown Bread is always ranked very high (1st or 2nd) while dynomat is usually toward the middle/bottom.
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