Skip Shift

**urstolendesire** · 03-29-2007, 03:44 PM

ya i've read forums before about how it works and how to get rid of it but no-one actually says what type of resistor or if the one from summit would do the same thing, and jus cost more? what ohm resistor if you make your own..?

**2001NBMZ28** · 03-29-2007, 03:52 PM

Have you looked at www.installuniversity.com

**urstolendesire** · 03-29-2007, 06:10 PM

damn.

Christibelle · 03-29-2007, 09:25 PM

stay away from going thru the computer to remove it. i had it done and now i have issues with my gears, i get locked out frequently

**INeedLS1** · 04-01-2007, 04:42 AM

I went with the eliminator from the WS6 Store. It was only 18.99 shipped and just popped right in.

**sirenformula350** · 04-01-2007, 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by INeedLS1

I went with the eliminator from the WS6 Store. It was only 18.99 shipped and just popped right in.

I also went with the eliminator for the ease of installation and it wasn't expensive. No problems here either.

**1MileCrash** · 04-01-2007, 09:26 AM

i got a werid one...

sometimes skip shift occurs in my car (light comes on, locks out 2nd)...sometimes it doesn't (no light...get to use 2nd). this is all accelerating when skip shift should occur.

anyone know what that is?

**LS1Formula01** · 04-01-2007, 11:49 AM

The skip shift is actually activated by transmission temp. The computer senses the transmissions temp and if it gets over a said temp, along with certain speed, the skip shift either activates or it doesn't

**my1973form** · 04-01-2007, 12:54 PM

Originally Posted by LS1Formula01

The skip shift is actually activated by transmission temp. The computer senses the transmissions temp and if it gets over a said temp, along with certain speed, the skip shift either activates or it doesn't

I heard this: CAGS comes into play under the following conditions:

you're in 1st gear (of course)
you're at 35% throttle or less
you're between 15 and 21 mph
engine coolant temperature is greater than 171 F (77 C)

Interestingly, 1st gear is determined by the PCM calculating from the speed
sensor input and the RPM values.

**1MileCrash** · 04-01-2007, 12:55 PM

ah gotcha. seems like a lot of unnecessary crap

**JohnnyBs98WS6Rag** · 04-01-2007, 01:40 PM

I'm pretty sure any resistor between 15 and 100 ohms will work. You can always measure the resistance of the solenoid and use something close. 1/4W is sufficient due to the short time power is applied by CAGS. I used a 27 ohm I had laying around.

**Redphoenix1998** · 04-01-2007, 02:06 PM

I believe I used a 25 ohm resistor but I'm not positive. I get no light at all saying skip shift. Works like a charm and has been like that for the last 8 years or so

**urstolendesire** · 04-01-2007, 05:35 PM

and its all for some emmisons crap? as if theres not enough on the car already!?

**my1973form** · 04-02-2007, 05:13 AM

Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998

I believe I used a 25 ohm resistor but I'm not positive. I get no light at all saying skip shift. Works like a charm and has been like that for the last 8 years or so

Actually it's 2.2K Ω (2,200 Ω), 1/2 watt resistor. The color code on the resistor should be red(first band), red(second band), red(third band), the 4th band is the tollarence can be either silver 10% of gold 5%.

**urstolendesire** · 04-02-2007, 08:39 PM

a 1/4 watt resistor would work just as well right...?

Christibelle · 04-03-2007, 04:44 AM

Sorry to take so long to reply back to my own post, i don't seem to have the issue anymore but my reverse lockout solenoid seems to be going bad. It sucks not being able to get into reverse whenever you want

**my1973form** · 04-03-2007, 05:21 AM

Originally Posted by urstolendesire

a 1/4 watt resistor would work just as well right...?

I don't believe this circuit draws more than 1/8 watt of power, a 1/4 watt should be fine, I just used a 1/2 watt the leads on the resistor are a bit larger in diameter than a 1/4 watt, better connection for the CAGS connector you are putting the resistor in.

**my1973form** · 04-03-2007, 05:27 AM

Originally Posted by REV_IT_UP-TA

Sorry to take so long to reply back to my own post, i don't seem to have the issue anymore but my reverse lockout solenoid seems to be going bad. It sucks not being able to get into reverse whenever you want

I don't think there is a reverse lockout solenoid, I have never heard that about our M6, the issue mostly with not going into reverse is the syncro mesh gear, have you tried to move car just a slight bit forward than try going into reverse, it works everytime for me and I have had this issue from new and have allways done this forward thing before reverse and it drops right in to gear, give it a try.

Christibelle · 04-03-2007, 05:38 AM

tried it and i even try pulling up my e-brake and letting it go and still no love

Who needs reverse anyways, you do go backwards to win a race!

**Too Fast** · 04-03-2007, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by urstolendesire

and its all for some emmisons crap? as if theres not enough on the car already!?

Not for emissions, it is for gas MPG. Amazing that these cars can run low 13s @ 107 MPH and have a camshaft that can tolerate 700 PRM in 4th gear @ 15 MPH! This is how our cars get the EPA city rating so high. It does suck in certain situations, tho, so I got an eliminator from SLP for my car. The light comes on when the car is warmed up, so I can determine whether or not to do it (put it in 4th).