Best Slotted and Drilled Rotors

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-06-2007, 07:29 PM

Who do you think makes the best S/D Rotors?

Or do you think there's no such thing as a good one and should one just go with slotted.

Talkin' bout' known for the least cracking and warping.

And who do you think makes the best pads?

**2manycis** · 02-06-2007, 08:00 PM

if you want the best braking abilities then you want as much contact area as possible between your pads and rotors. which means no holes and no slots. Now if you do auto-x or something of the nature and you want your brakes to run cooler, then you should start looking towards drilled/slotted. But they have more of a tendency to warp then regular rotors.

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-06-2007, 08:16 PM

Actually, I just like the way they look...lol

But, from what I've seen they tend to crack, don't need that, so I started thinkin maybe there's some better than others.

Also, heard that the full contact (smooth) rotors tend to glaze (due to heat I suppose) and consequently fade as well as having no ability to get rid of gasses from the pads.

I don't do auto cross, just want the best stopping ability with good looks, without having to worry much about crackin and warpage.

Steet racin is what I'm into so I do need to get 'er down from 160 to 60 real quick

**nytmare** · 02-07-2007, 04:57 AM

If you're looking for performance, you want to get a set of decent solid rotors. Brembo makes good ones and the good ones at AutoZone I hear aren't too bad either.

The slotted or slotted & drilled rotors have the bling effect, but other than that they're not good for anything performance wise. Both the drilled and slotted type rotors have been known to crack when abused. And so long as you use a good pad on solid rotors (and torque the lugs down properly), you won't have a problem with them glazing or warping.

Marc

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-07-2007, 07:59 AM

So do you think it worth the money to upgrade calipers? or should I just stay with stock?

**jbb6811** · 02-07-2007, 01:55 PM

i hear the calipers are fine its just the stock rotors on our cars are crap!

**Kajun Taz** · 02-07-2007, 02:43 PM

Hmmm, then I think I'll stay away from these.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=220078118954

**Fastcar** · 02-08-2007, 09:43 PM

Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK

Actually, I just like the way they look...lol

But, from what I've seen they tend to crack, don't need that, so I started thinkin maybe there's some better than others.

Also, heard that the full contact (smooth) rotors tend to glaze (due to heat I suppose) and consequently fade as well as having no ability to get rid of gasses from the pads.

I don't do auto cross, just want the best stopping ability with good looks, without having to worry much about crackin and warpage.

Steet racin is what I'm into so I do need to get 'er down from 160 to 60 real quick

It's not the rotors that glaze, it's the pads. Older organic material type pads would glaze under repeated light slow stops; these pads also tended to outgas due to the binder materials used in the pad itself, thus 'pushing' the pad away from the rotor. This outgassing would require greater force to be applied to the pad to overcome the 'cushioning' effect caused by the outgassing - thus the development of slots and drilling of rotors to allow a path for the gas to escape. Slots and holes also have a scraping effect on the pad surface - while this would tend to remove more pad material and thus minimize glazing, it has the negative effect of increased braking noise and faster pad wear. The better and more up-to-date brake pad compounds used now have minimal outgassing compared to the old style organic pads. Do you look at your brakes when you're stopping? Quote "what looks good"; go with a good solid rotor, ceramic pads and, if you want, braided stainless steel brake hoses. To me, what looks good is no more rotor warping and brake vibrations, decreased brake pad dust on the wheels, and increased braking performance due to the fact that ceramic pads tend not to heat up as much and as rapidly as pads made from organic and semi-metallic materials. Also, use a synthetic brake fluid in the system - synthetics have a higher boiling point and adsorb less moisture than conventional brake fluid. Valvoline makes a reasonably priced full synthetic fluid.

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-08-2007, 10:53 PM

Originally Posted by Fastcar

It's not the rotors that glaze, it's the pads. Older organic material type pads would glaze under repeated light slow stops; these pads also tended to outgas due to the binder materials used in the pad itself, thus 'pushing' the pad away from the rotor. This outgassing would require greater force to be applied to the pad to overcome the 'cushioning' effect caused by the outgassing - thus the development of slots and drilling of rotors to allow a path for the gas to escape. Slots and holes also have a scraping effect on the pad surface - while this would tend to remove more pad material and thus minimize glazing, it has the negative effect of increased braking noise and faster pad wear. The better and more up-to-date brake pad compounds used now have minimal outgassing compared to the old style organic pads. Do you look at your brakes when you're stopping? Quote "what looks good"; go with a good solid rotor, ceramic pads and, if you want, braided stainless steel brake hoses. To me, what looks good is no more rotor warping and brake vibrations, decreased brake pad dust on the wheels, and increased braking performance due to the fact that ceramic pads tend not to heat up as much and as rapidly as pads made from organic and semi-metallic materials. Also, use a synthetic brake fluid in the system - synthetics have a higher boiling point and adsorb less moisture than conventional brake fluid. Valvoline makes a reasonably priced full synthetic fluid.

I see, so there would actually be less performance, unless you were light braking often...something I definitely won't be doing. I want fast braking from high speeds as fast and as reliable as possible without cracking and warping.

Thanks everyone for your reply's!!! I have received the LS101 degree in braking!!! And it looks like now I'll save a few bucks and have better braking than I would have if I had not of asked.

Yes, I was considering the SS brake lines also, thank you for mentioning those, as I read somewhere here where guys who had installed them said they gave more of a solid feel to the pedal, and not rusting out can only give peace of mind. Didn't know they have synthetic brake fluid til now either, again...thanks!!!

Now...how do you go about painting the calipers? The slots and drill holes I can live without, but a rusted up caliper just looks like crap and mine are almost completely rusted...looks like they were silver at one time...is this the color of the calipers the T/A's came with? Is there a specific paint most people use...or just any ol' high temp paint...and should you prime it first>?

Oh and is there a (most chosen) ceramic brake pad or are all pretty much equal?

**JEB** · 02-09-2007, 08:53 PM

Look at "Diamond Slotted" Rotors.

**Fastcar** · 02-09-2007, 11:43 PM

I know that there are several companies that make paint (kits) specifically for rotors, I think that VHT is one company and Dupli-Color is another. I polished mine, didn't paint them. Good prep on the rotors is essential for the paint to adhere properly and not bubble and blister off. Remove any surface rust and junk, then use a solvent like acetone to remove any trace of grease, oil or brake fluid from the rotor before you paint them. Synthetic brake fluids have been around for a long time but they used to be very expensive and not compatible with conventional fluids: the early synthetics were silicone based. You had to completely drain the brake system of conventional fluid and flush the system with a special solvent before refilling the system with silicone fluid. PITA, and you couldn't mix silicone with normal brake fluid. The Valvoline full synthetic is 100% compatible with regular brake fluids - however, to get the maximum effect you should fully drain the system of regular fluid, then refill it with synthetic only. In a pinch you can top off the Valvoline synthetic fluid with normal fluid. Hawk & Akebono make good ceramic pads - check the Website of a very large tire seller for brake stuff. I use Brembo blanks (non slotted or drilled) personally and with over 20K miles on the rotors I haven't had any warping yet! I practice what I preach: I have Akebono pads, SST hoses, and when my dealer did all the brakes and installed the hoses I had him put the Valvoline synthetic fluid in since he had to drain the system anyway. I know firsthand that everything I've recommended works right 'cuz I have to live with it.

**Hurley711** · 02-10-2007, 03:35 AM

DO NOT get drilled and slotted, you are only taking away from surface area contact. Get a nice set of Brembo blanks from Tirerack.com

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-11-2007, 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by Hurley711

DO NOT get drilled and slotted, you are only taking away from surface area contact. Get a nice set of Brembo blanks from Tirerack.com

OK...definitely going to go with those. Are the Hawk pads good?

**CandyRedZ28** · 02-11-2007, 09:08 AM

Kajun Taz I got those same R1 concept rotors and they work pretty good, I only got 5k miles on them, I didnt feel a difference between the stock ones but they look cool.

**Hurley711** · 02-11-2007, 09:15 AM

Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK

OK...definitely going to go with those. Are the Hawk pads good?

Yep, Hawk pads are real good, lots of fellas using them autoX guys and all. Read up on each to see what fits your needs best, I went with HPS for DD duties

**predator** · 02-11-2007, 10:26 AM

Originally Posted by 2manycis

if you want the best braking abilities then you want as much contact area as possible between your pads and rotors. which means no holes and no slots. Now if you do auto-x or something of the nature and you want your brakes to run cooler, then you should start looking towards drilled/slotted. But they have more of a tendency to warp then regular rotors.

Originally Posted by Hurley711

DO NOT get drilled and slotted, you are only taking away from surface area contact. Get a nice set of Brembo blanks from Tirerack.com

WOULD YOU PPL STOP THIS!!!! im so tired of writing out the same responce... Jesus Christ take a physics class...

Ok... surface area has nothing to do with friction (braking)... the formula for friction is

... thats the coeffecent of friction times the force applied... as you can see NO SURFACE AREA!!!!

READ THIS LINK!!!

NOW!!!... ways to improve braking...

1. Improve force... this can be done by pressing harder on the pedal... Braided brake lines are a good way to do this too...

2. Buy better pads...

3. Move your pads further away from the axis of rotations... such as in a Big Brake Kit... this will allow the friction to apply a greater moment (which is force time distance) to the wheel allowing it to stop faster...

now as for drilled and slotted... im prolly just gonna go with slotted since drilled do have a rep for cracking... (truthfully i havent decided)... but i am definately going to go with a disk that will allow gasses and heat to esacpe from under my pad... Im really not into floating rotors...

-me

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-11-2007, 02:58 PM

Originally Posted by predator

WOULD YOU PPL STOP THIS !!!! im so tired of writing out the same responce... Jesus Christ take a physics class...

Ok... surface area has nothing to do with friction (braking)... the formula for friction is $Click for full size$ ... thats the coeffecent of friction times the force applied... as you can see NO SURFACE AREA!!!!

READ THIS LINK!!!

NOW!!!... ways to improve braking...

1. Improve force... this can be done by pressing harder on the pedal... Braided brake lines are a good way to do this too...

2. Buy better pads...

3. Move your pads further away from the axis of rotations... such as in a Big Brake Kit... this will allow the friction to apply a greater moment (which is force time distance) to the wheel allowing it to stop faster...

now as for drilled and slotted... im prolly just gonna go with slotted since drilled do have a rep for cracking... (truthfully i havent decided)... but i am definately going to go with a disk that will allow gasses and heat to esacpe from under my pad... Im really not into floating rotors...

-me

Geeeeze dude...chill...take a valium or sumthin.

Relaxed? OK...now...are you going with a big brake kit and if so, are they bolt on or do they require modification? whose big brake kit are you going with? Brembo?

**Wesman** · 02-11-2007, 03:10 PM

I have cross drilled rotors on my car and I've been happy with them. No warpage, no noticeable brake fade, and they stop on a dime.

The drilled holes do not negatively affect the stopping abilities of the brakes, they merely allow for the venting of the heat and gases that build up between the brake pad and rotor. And thats a good thing.

**{FzS}BlacKMagicK** · 02-11-2007, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by Wesman

I have cross drilled rotors on my car and I've been happy with them. No warpage, no noticeable brake fade, and they stop on a dime.

The drilled holes do not negatively affect the stopping abilities of the brakes, they merely allow for the venting of the heat and gases that build up between the brake pad and rotor. And thats a good thing.

True, they do not negatively affect the stopping ability of the brake, but due to the holes causing weakness in the rotor itself, they tend to crack after a few thousand miles and some very hard braking. I've noticed some rotors have less holes than others, they are probably stronger than the ones with more. Of course just slotted rotors with no holes, stronger still and blanks the strongest (as far as cracking) is concerned, not so sure about warpage, 'cause I have no slots or holes and they are definitely warped.

Thinner rotor? Crappy material? I don't know, they are probably the originals, which I have read are famous for warping, question is why?
Is it the thickness or the material the rotor is made of? I would think thickness because I think all rotors are made of pretty much the same material, I don't know for sure.

Personally I'd be willing to sacrifice the good looks for decreased stopping distance. Would be nice to see a chart with different brake company setups (calipers and rotors) on the same car and see some braking distances from say 100mph.

**2manycis** · 02-11-2007, 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by predator

WOULD YOU PPL STOP THIS!!!! im so tired of writing out the same responce... Jesus Christ take a physics class...

Ok... surface area has nothing to do with friction (braking)... the formula for friction is $Click for full size$ ... thats the coeffecent of friction times the force applied... as you can see NO SURFACE AREA!!!!

READ THIS LINK!!!

NOW!!!... ways to improve braking...

1. Improve force... this can be done by pressing harder on the pedal... Braided brake lines are a good way to do this too...

2. Buy better pads...

3. Move your pads further away from the axis of rotations... such as in a Big Brake Kit... this will allow the friction to apply a greater moment (which is force time distance) to the wheel allowing it to stop faster...

now as for drilled and slotted... im prolly just gonna go with slotted since drilled do have a rep for cracking... (truthfully i havent decided)... but i am definately going to go with a disk that will allow gasses and heat to esacpe from under my pad... Im really not into floating rotors...

-me

The more area you can apply the force and friction on the better the braking you're going to have... it's more common sense than physics