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01-30-2007, 12:59 PM #1
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
Noises, Noises, Noises. PLEASE help.
Okay, ive done searchs and read tons of threads about noises coming from under the car having to do with steering and suspension. I have the same problem, when i make a sharp turn, it makes a squeeling, moaing, knocking sound. And when im driving straight (especially at low speeds) the ride is extremely rough, and stiff feeling. Like many people, I think it is coming from the back of the car for the most part and the knocking sound i get while turning is so loud i can feel it.
I want to take it to a mechanic to have it fixed, but I dont want him to overcharge me for replacing a bunch of stuff that isent even causing the problem. like replacing the whole rear-end or front-end just to solve the issue.
My car is a '98 Formula m6 with around 80,000 miles.
Please help me get an idea of what is wrong.
Last edited by Secret Formula; 01-30-2007 at 01:49 PM.
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01-30-2007, 04:53 PM #2
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
anyone???
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01-30-2007, 06:58 PM #3
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Machine Silver Metallic- 2005 Corvette
Have you checked the rubber bushings on the sway bar?
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01-30-2007, 07:29 PM #4
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
I have not, could they be worn out or somthing?
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01-31-2007, 04:22 AM #5
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GM Bright Red- 2002 Trans AM WS-6
hmm.. i've heard knocking noises like you talk about when wheel barings have gone bad... could be another possibility.. if thats it that shouldn't be too expensive.. if the whole rear end was bad you would hear a roar that gets worse at higher speeds...
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01-31-2007, 05:09 AM #6
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My life is a- Ben Stiller movie.
In order of assesment:
Your creeks and shit are just standard on an F-body. most people have found that subframe connectors fix that, but more importantly they stiffin the chassis so you get less roll and body twist. [might be 200 with install]
Also, I suggest a set of new Rear Lower Control Arms. Sounds like your stock ones are shot; new ones will have new polyurethane bushings and be made of quality, solid materials, not the flimsy stamped-steel. [you can install these easily, they are between 100-150$]
finally, you might wanna consider some new shocks if you're experiencing a rough ride. [stock shocks are like 200 per pair]Last edited by third_shift|studios; 01-31-2007 at 05:14 AM.
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01-31-2007, 06:47 AM #7
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
Awesome, that is exactly what i wanted to hear.
I might start off with the control arms and some shocks, later on I might consider getting subframe connectors.
Do you figure im better off just getting stock replacement shocks, or getting somthing like konis or bilstein?
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01-31-2007, 08:22 AM #8
Bad/failing ball joints will give a knocking sound while turning. Stock Stabilizer bar bushings wear quickly and become sloppy/noisey.
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01-31-2007, 12:04 PM #9
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honestly, you should start with subframes.
you really should plan ahead when it comes to shocks and springs b/c ceratain combos work well, others don't [or so i've heard]. suspension is one of those things you need to think about; drag or street? race or cruise?
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01-31-2007, 06:03 PM #10
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Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
Sub frames would be the first thing I would do regardless of the noises. I know of several instances where my friends swapped out their stock control lower control arms for aftermarket ones and it cured a lot of noises, squeaks & rattles. It also helps to cure wheel hop
The shocks and springs are something you definately want to do a lot of research on. You definately got to know the direction you are going with your car. Do you want to be slammed down, do you want to drop it just enough to kill the 4x4 look without sacrificing clearance too much. Several different spring and shock combinations out there. The one piece of advice I will give you, do not cheap out on shocks. I have learned this the hard way. Shocks are the single biggest factor in determing the quality of your ride. I made the mistake last year of cheaping out on shocks with KYB's instead of Koni's and I will swap out for Koni's this year. Put a lot of research into your shock/spring combo before devoting any money into it. I hope this helps some and good luck
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01-31-2007, 06:06 PM #11
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
alright, ill find out what people charge for doing my subframes, unless you feel its easy enough for me too do. I do have some experience with replacing stuff like control arms on other cars.
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01-31-2007, 06:07 PM #12
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01-31-2007, 06:15 PM #13
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
I have no experience in welding so I assume if I did it myself I would just buy the bolt in ones. Jegs.com has a few that im looking at.
Last edited by Secret Formula; 01-31-2007 at 06:22 PM.
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01-31-2007, 06:28 PM #14
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Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
Personally, I would get weld-ins. I found a local exhaust shop that I trust and he welded mine in for me, charged me about $50. Some exhaust shops will quote you $150+ to weld them in though. If you do end up getting bolt in SFC's it is something you could handle yourself though.
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01-31-2007, 06:59 PM #15
TIME OUT!!!! Does it make a moaning or groaning when turning left or right or both? And dont switch out your LCA's because noise. If its clicking or popping it's just the ball joint. You really need to find out if it is groaning when turning left then its probably the right wheel bearing and vice versa. I have diagnosed this before because I fixed alot of stuff with mine already,plus I diagnose and fix others because I am a technician not a shade tree mechanic. But give me some more info andI might be able to help you more
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01-31-2007, 07:11 PM #16
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
It makes the moans and groans when I make sharp turns in either direction, and it makes the popping sound at the same time.
In a totally separate issue, the car feels stiff, sounds squeeky and jolts me in my seat when I hit even the smallest bump while normally driving down the road going straight.
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02-01-2007, 09:42 AM #17
noise
one is a ball joint and the other could be the rear sway bar bushings. It's possible you killed both ball joints but without me being there I dunno. You need to try to jounce the rear of your vehicle by thrusting down on in and letting it come up on its own. If it keeps bouncing then the shocks are gone. let me know after you try it how it went.
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02-01-2007, 09:46 AM #18
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Arctic White Hardtop- '98 Formula M6
yeah, did some jouncing, and it kept on bouncing. lol
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02-01-2007, 10:09 AM #19
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torch red- 1999 T.A /A4/ T-top
Well I think it sound like Ball joints. I could be wrong but I have seen a lot of them go bad.(mostly older car).It could also be the struts of upper strut mounts. Take it to someone on ask for to see how much and what they think is wrong with it.
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02-01-2007, 12:14 PM #20
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what is a ball joint? and where?
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