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Thread: 403 build - Advice and Opinions
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12-06-2014, 08:04 PM #41
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
I relocated mine to just behind the battery.
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01-03-2015, 03:11 PM #42
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
403 build - Advice and Opinions
Any updates?
I had a rod bolt failure ate my stock crank so I'm going with a 403 build.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 01-03-2015 at 04:45 PM.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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01-03-2015, 07:10 PM #43
2000 Trans Am T56 Swapped - GMPP "HOT" Cam | LS6 Intake | PnP TB | 25% UD Pulley | Founders adjustable LCA/PHB/TA | Norris Catch Can | TSP 1-7/8 SS LT | TSP True Duals with bullets | SLP Lid | UMI Shock tower brace | Torq Thrust M 17x9 275/40 front 17x10.5 315/35 rear - YouTube Videos - My Car Site
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01-04-2015, 12:11 PM #44
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
so far just the #3 rod and crank journal. In case you didn't see my thread here is what I found.
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03-07-2015, 01:22 PM #45
Since the bird is no longer my DD I have been considering changing the path I am planning for this build. Instead of a N/A 408 I am tossing around the idea of putting a D-1SC on it to have a super fun toy. Any thoughts? Would it be more trouble than its worth?
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03-08-2015, 08:27 PM #46
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Jon would be the guy to talk with. He's got one IIRC. I know he has a supercharger.
What's your compression ratio now? You are looking at a new cam and either pistons or heads because of CR.
It would be an awesome build no less.
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03-08-2015, 08:30 PM #47
I'm here to assist.
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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03-08-2015, 09:13 PM #48
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03-08-2015, 09:38 PM #49
I have had my Procharger installed for about 4.5 years now. I'm running 8lbs, give or take, of boost on an otherwise stock LS1 motor; hardened pushrods and upgraded springs. Everything else is stock. So, I have 10.1:1 compression. Steve aka Frost tuned the car and worked with me on recommendations on the setup. He highly recommended using methanol as a suppliment so I'm running a meth kit from Alky as well as a front mount intercooler. Have the 255lph Walbro pump and 62# injectors. At this point, the pump is my restriction if I want to run more boost (assuming I build the motor). I've read that fuel pump is only good for about 600rwhp. I'm at 500rwhp.
Zero issues with the Procharger....knocks on wood.
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03-09-2015, 06:21 AM #50
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
From what I've read on the subject if you need more fuel Jon you'll need a twin pump setup.
If you do go FI make sure you have high quality oil lines. One of the local guys I know has a turbo build and just lost his motor because one of the oil lines blew and lost quite a bit of oil before he could shut off.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 03-09-2015 at 06:23 AM.
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03-09-2015, 10:45 AM #51
One good thing about Procharger is the oil for the head unit is self-contained and separate from engine oil. Recommended change period is 6K miles I believe.
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03-09-2015, 10:11 PM #52
Thanks for the info and tips guys. How much would you estimate that the procharger , intercooler and pipping will pile onto the already large sum this is going to cost haha
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03-10-2015, 08:16 PM #53
413 ci for the win ... I got a completer lq9 with 30k miles ... im just going to put a cam in it an spray the piss out of it! then order scat rods crank make a 413
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03-10-2015, 08:17 PM #54
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03-10-2015, 08:20 PM #55
not talking crap but you can built an all motor car that will stomp that car for the price of the procharger ... I called procharger in 99 they were like close to 7k . So I bought a 10,500 87 GN with 48k miles an moded it
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03-10-2015, 08:56 PM #56
I have about 11-12K into my Procharger setup. I added quite a few things beyond the typical setup though and bought all new parts. My gauges for example (fuel, afr, and vacuum/boost) were pretty expensive by themselves. Fuel pump, fuel filter, pillar pod, Aster tensioner, Alky methanol kit, FMIC, injectors, push rods, valve springs, single radiator fan for room, custom fabd piping for the inlet and air filter, oil, antifreeze, new spark plugs, head unit oil, etc etc etc. It adds up fast. The "kit" is far from complete.
That's without touching the motor for the most part.
Have about the same into suspension, drivetrain, etc. I consider it pretty bulletproof at this point, and with M/T's it dead hooks, even in first with a 4.11 rear end gear ratio.
I could personally care less I don't have the fastest car. Someone is always faster. It's extremely reliable and I haven't needed to fill up a bottle once. I can also get the same or better gas mileage when staying out of the throttle than when the car was stock. Power at my disposal, always. A NA car with similar power will get walked on by a FI car.
Nothing against NA power or spraying. I know plenty of people making ridiculous power. The only drawback to FI is cost that I saw after years of reading, reviewing, and talking to several reputable LSx builders before pulling the trigger. In my case, cost was not a big factor so that's the route I went. I'm very happy with my decision. I forgot to mention, it sounds phenomenal.
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03-10-2015, 10:13 PM #57
I might have to nix the SC idea for now then. That would essentially double the cost of the motor build.. I'll need that extra for a good rear and to get the t56 upgraded. With the NA build I should be looking at something north of 500 and as you mentioned, I am not looking for the fastest car just something very fun to drive.
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03-11-2015, 02:30 AM #58
Yeah, it's not cheap that's for sure and I certainly understand considering what you have done so far.
You could probably piece-meal a system or even pick up a used system for a more budget friendly build (4-5k ballpark I'm guessing with some effort)...but the truth of it is, there's really no such thing as budget friendly with FI.
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01-01-2016, 02:18 AM #59
Sorry that I have been so absent lately and not updating the build. The sorry truth is that I have made zero progress in the last year. I ended up sinking all my money into a new business I started this year, otherwise the engine would be done.
I am thinking at this point I might change direction a little bit. Since I have precious little time to work on projects right now I was thinking that instead of building my engine ground up like I wanted, picking up a 408 shortblock from a reputable vendor then slapping heads/cam/intake on top of it. Shouldn't be that much of a difference in price.
Another route I've considered is instead of spending all this bank on building an awesome N/A engine is instead just getting a 6L drop out from a truck, adding the appropriate cam and going TT like kit available here. The F2 TT kit. 98-02 F-Body Turbo SystemsLast edited by Decadence75; 01-01-2016 at 02:23 AM.
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01-01-2016, 09:02 AM #60
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Here's another option for turbos if interested.
Turbo Kits
I think because of this thread was the reason I went with a 403 build.
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