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06-13-2011, 06:06 PM #1
Installing a fixed belt tensioner
Although I have not experienced any problems, it is my understanding that under high r.p.m. the stock tensioner can allow the belt to launch off the pulleys and cause all sorts of havoc. Since our car has been slowly being built into a street and strip machine I have considered switching over to a solid tensioner. I stumbled upon ls1camino's garage sale thread a few weeks ago and he just happened to have a Katech tensioner for sale that had been on his car for just a short time.
The new tensioner is a solid piece of hardware that easily bolts in place of the stock unit. The only caveat with running this style tensioner is that it will require periodic adjustment, however, as it takes all of two minutes to properly tension the belt it is not a great concern. I would note that a newly installed belt will stretch more than a seasoned belt, so it is best to check a new belt a couple of times during the first month after installation. I do highly recommend Goodyear's Gatorback belts for anyone that is changing theirs out.
The stock tensioner and Katech unit are both pictured for comparison:
To remove the stock unit, begin by using a 15 mm socket on a longer ratchet to rotate the pulley in a clockwise direction. This will pivot the tensioner and allow the belt to be slipped off the pulley.
Again, using a 15 mm socket, remove the two bolts that secure the tensioner to the water pump housing. Once the bolts are removed the tensioner can be removed from the car and the new unit installed in its place. I applied just a touch of anti-sieze to the threads on the bolts before threading them in place hand tight. Starting with the bottom bolt they are both torqued to 37 ft.-lbs.
After the new tensioner is tightened in place, make sure the lock bolt on the back is loose so that the tensioner can pivot. To re-install the belt, you need to first slip it off the fixed idler pulley that rides between and below the water pump and power steering pulleys. The belt can then be slipped over top of the tensioner and then easily slid back onto the fixed idler as it does not have a shoulder:
Once the belt is back on the tensioner and idler be sure to look at each pulley to ensure that the belt has not slipped out of place. I removed the lock bolt from the tensioner and applied a drop of medium thread compound before re-installing it. Using a torque wrench with a short 3/8" extension, 25 ft.-lbs. of force is applied to the tensioner to pull the belt tight. The lock bolt is then tightened with the belt tensioned and is final torqued to 40 ft.lbs.:
The difference in the pulley on the new tensioner is readily apparent. It has a deeper groove for the belt to ride in. This, in combination with the fact that it is fixed in place, means that it is far less likely to throw a belt under both transient and high r.p.m. loads.
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06-13-2011, 07:15 PM #2
nice work Jeff. Does this belt thrown off issue happens even with stock engines?
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06-13-2011, 07:19 PM #3
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06-13-2011, 07:22 PM #4
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06-13-2011, 07:24 PM #5
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06-13-2011, 07:30 PM #6
ah i see. It looks like it should solve your issue and it looks cool too.
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06-14-2011, 06:09 AM #7
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Nice write-up, Jeff.
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06-14-2011, 06:59 AM #8
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383 w/Meth & ProCharger- 2001 Camaro Z28
Good write up Jeff! This solid tensioner is a new thought for me. I need to look into the pro's and con's of it. I'm wondering if the belt is more likely to snap under torque from accessories (a/c) kicking in with this solid tensioner. I haven't had any issue with my stock tensioner. Please let us know how it goes after some use.
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06-14-2011, 08:09 AM #9
Hopefully, I can get the car back to the track in a few weeks and see how it works. I have just a few more things to do yet.
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06-14-2011, 08:42 AM #10
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Stickied!!
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01-17-2012, 10:18 AM #11
Katech tensioner fixed my issues. Good write up
LS6 Intake, LS6 VCT, E^2 Catch Can, Hooker LTs and ORY, Magnaflow Cat-Back, 3" QTP electric cutout, UMI adj LCA, PHB, 3 pt SFCs, STB, MGW Shifter, SLP lid and bellow, Free-Mods, Tuned by BlueCat
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01-17-2012, 10:35 AM #12
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2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
I bought this tensioner the day I threw a belt on my Heads/Cam/Intake LS1 while doing a 0-120mph pull...I barely heard the belt leave the car over the sound of the exhaust.
I'm glad it's working out for you, Jeff.
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01-17-2012, 10:39 AM #13
Nice set up Jeff!
In opinion though the problem may be the factory LS1 tensioner setup and the way it tensions the belt.
I've been over 7000 sustained rpm on many 60* v6's and never once had an issue with the spring loaded tensioners or belts flying off.
Unless of course the tensioner was shot to begin with.
Just my .02
Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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07-18-2014, 06:44 PM #14
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SRM- 2006 GTO
bringing back an old thread to ask ls1camino or anyone who knows why would one sell a Katech belt tensioner? I am thinking of purchasing one and am wondering the downside, if any. Thank you in advance for insights.
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07-19-2014, 04:41 PM #15
If I recall, Jeremy's car was in an accident and he was parting it out. No downfall to the Katech tensioner. I have been running it since I started this thread and have had no issues.
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07-19-2014, 06:28 PM #16
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SRM- 2006 GTO
thank you very much Jeff.
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07-20-2014, 02:54 AM #17
You will need a torque wrench to properly tension the belt upon installation. If I recall, I believe the spec is something like 20 lb.ft. of torque on the tensioner and then you lock it down.
BTW: Welcome to the site!
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07-20-2014, 07:06 AM #18
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07-26-2014, 03:33 PM #19
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Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
Silly question, how fast are your engines revving at, and would the deeper grooves along with the taller ends fix most of those problems?
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09-04-2014, 07:05 PM #20
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2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 M6: 427ci LS3, Built T56, Moser 9" w/ 4.11 Gearing, Full Suspension, and 6-point Cage.
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP: Twincharged w/ a T67 Turbocharger
2007 Chevrolet 3500 Dually Duramax: 3" Downpipe, Dual 4" Exhaust, EFILive Tuning
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