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Thread: Strut Brace
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07-11-2013, 05:57 AM #1
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Strut Brace
Is these any effect on the alignment when installing a front strut cross brace (between towers).
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07-11-2013, 06:06 AM #2
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
(Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
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07-11-2013, 06:32 AM #3
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Strut Brace
Do you have to take all of the upper strut mount nuts off to install a brace?
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07-11-2013, 07:10 AM #4
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
Just the two nuts on each side, slide the brace on and tighten down the nuts.
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07-11-2013, 07:41 AM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Yep.....Will's right.
I'll add that the brand of the TSB matters too. Fitment and clearance for the hood and intake, mostly for the intake. If you have a LS1/6 intake you'll be fine, however if you have a BBK or FAST 102 you might have fitment issues.
For straight line racing a TSB is useless. However for daily street or auto cross driving it helps in the handling. I've noticed that I was able to handle turns at higher rate of speed and not lose traction. However I also have more suspension upgrades that were installed at the same time. (see signature)
My recommendation is it can't hurt to have.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
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07-11-2013, 07:48 AM #6
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
I have a FAST 102 and the UMI brand one fits just fine. I have heard the slp one can be close. WS6 hoods and like hoods tend to not be an issue for STBs but the non ram air hoods can be from what I have heard.
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07-11-2013, 07:50 AM #7
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
IIRC BMR has an issue with the BBK and FAST too.
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07-12-2013, 09:13 AM #8
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Custom Swirly Black- 2001 WS6 M6
I wouldn't install it if the right or left side of the car is raised significantly higher than the other. It may not even be possible to install it if the car is torque that much. Your driveway will more than suffice.
If you got a good price on it (I paid less that $60 IIRC, sale with free shipping @UMI), they're worth it. But like Scott said, I installed mine with other suspension components on the same day (Subframe connectors) and definitely felt a difference in left to right handling. I did notice from launch (straight line driving), the front end pulls up more level, but the SFC help out alot on that subject.
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07-12-2013, 09:54 PM #9
I installed a QA1 STB, it's a 3 point contact. Definitely notice a difference! A pain in the ass to install but well worth it.
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07-13-2013, 03:13 AM #10
STB is one of the only mods we don't have. It would just be additional weight on our car.
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07-13-2013, 04:38 AM #11
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Pewter- Y2K WS6
Install is easy but it makes it a bitch to get to your plugs etc ... Have to pull it for a lot of mods it seems ... Great place to lean...
FYI our cars have shocks not struts.
I'd do sway bars and good shocks/ springs first....
I also wouldn't do a 3 point as I have heard of them causing windshield cracking issues.
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07-13-2013, 07:59 AM #12
The rears are shocks, the front are struts....
A shock absorber resists the bouncing using hydraulics. That’s all it does. Struts are more complex. They combine shock absorption with steering elements and support for the vehicle. Shocks are more common on trucks and SUVs, while you usually find struts on cars. But sometimes you find both—one in the front and the other in the back. Struts are more expensive, because they are more complex.
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07-13-2013, 08:43 AM #13
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07-14-2013, 12:28 AM #14
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07-14-2013, 06:30 AM #15
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07-14-2013, 06:38 AM #16
STB's are good for engine hoists. Curtis can provide a picture. Nothing more lol. If you think yours made a drastic impact...it's the Placebo effect. This has been proven time and time again over the last 13 years. It's more for show than go. It's one of the few suspension pieces not on my car.
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07-14-2013, 09:33 AM #17
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Pewter- Y2K WS6
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07-14-2013, 09:35 AM #18
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Pewter- Y2K WS6
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07-14-2013, 09:46 AM #19
As I won't argue this with you Jon. I've had a 2 point STB and now a 3 point. Maybe it's just me "wanting" to feel a difference.....but, like I said, I won't argue this point as I am not as verse on the issue as you are. I'm just going on my experience with my own rides. Thanks for that bit of info though. I truly thought I felt a difference.
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07-14-2013, 10:02 AM #20
Now I am confused, what does STB stand for? I thought it was Strut Tower Brace. And, when I changed my front struts, why did I have to use a Mac Phereson Strut Tool? From what I understand, when the coils and shocks are seperately located, the shock component is called a shock. But, when they are a single, complete unit, that unit was called a strut.
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