Help!!!!

[SMWS6TA]

[SMWS6TA]

bump ttt

[Firebirdjones]

Wow that's a noisy sucker either way

I can tell a difference with and without the belt. Without the belt I'm hearing some piston slap. With the belt I'm hearing all kinds of stuff

Since that single belt runs so many things you'll have to look at each pulley closely, including the tensioners. Spin them by hand to feel for tight spots or something irregular, move them in and out and check for play etc.... It could be the water pump, alternator, PS pump etc...
Since you left the AC belt on I assume, we can probably eliminate that as a possibility.

[GTP231]

If its going away with the belt I'd start spinning pullies by hand and check for noise binding or play in the bearings. My first guess would be an idler or a tensioner pulley

[pajeff02]

3rd opinion. Sounds like she's beyond repair. Better sell it to me for $100 -- I'll be down next week to get her.

[SMWS6TA]

[Firebirdjones]

3rd opinion. Sounds like she's beyond repair. Better sell it to me for $100 -- I'll be down next week to get her.

I'll go $125 and leave right now

[initechpeter]

I'll take the fuel pump for $50.

[cpop98ws6]

I would get a automotive stethoscope and touch it to each pulley. You can usually pick right up on the noisy one.

Automotive Stethoscope | AutoZone.com

[Knight]

I agree with FBJ, and Chris. Sounds like a few noises mixing together. Time to narrow things down!

[GTP231]

I'll go $125 and leave right now

$135

[Firebirdjones]

$135

Damn,,,,I'm out.

[98TransAmWs-6]

It sounds like pulleys to me and some piston slap. Its really noisy so it is a little hard to tell. I would check that new ps pulley as well as the tensioner and the others. In the video without the belt did you remove the AC belt?

[SMWS6TA]

Well I came back from a shop, had it on a lift and we both agree the noises is coming from the oil pan , much louder and clearer after a 15 mile drive to his place. Ironically the other squealing noises quit after the first couple of miles.

He said it sounds like the a bearing is going bad, hasn't spun yet. So I nursed it home.


Just finished having the customary argument with the wife about spending $$ on parts

She's pissed more so because we are down 2 out of 3 cars.



I'm not sure what to do yet.....I have the LQ4 short block in storage I already know what everyone is going to say ......do the 6.0L...got it,


I still want to take the oil pan off and see with my own eyes if it can be salvage or have it justify going with the LQ project.


List of pro's and cons would help....

[SMWS6TA]

If anyone wants to contribute to the "Help me rebuild" Fund I'll pm you my paypal.....

[Firebirdjones]

Sounds like you need to start a donation fund

If that is indeed the case, you'll really need to check the crank, because if a bearing is actually the issue, I'm sure it's marred the crank. At a minimum it will have to be polished but more likely need to be turned. Otherwise it will chew a new bearing in short order, so I don't recommend the slap and go method.

I recently had severe rod knock in a 454, but it never affected the oil pressure. Yet it was bad enough to have tiny aluminum flakes up in the top of the cylinder heads. I was uncertain until I found that.
So it's hard to say how bad yours is (or the cause) until you see some physical evidence of what's going on.

Dropping the pan isn't exactly easy on a 4th gen. Since you've had it for a drive, I'd drain some oil and have a close look, and cut the filter apart for inspection. A short drive should produce some contamination if something is failing. If you don't see anything initially, I'd go as far as sending a sample of the oil to Blackstone. That will tell you exactly what's going on. If there is an internal failure happening, it should show up. It's cheap to do before you go tearing things completely down.

[98TransAmWs-6]

You could give me your 6.0 and I can give you my ls1 but seriously that sucks man. I had to breakdown my motor to flush it of metal fragments on the camshaft, which hopefully my bearings are fine.

[pajeff02]

Damn. If you are just dropping the K-member to pull the pan, the bracket I fabbed to support the engine was cheap, easy to build and worked great. Let me know if you need any measurements.

[pajeff02]

The brace is designed to set in place with a towel on each end protecting the paint. The driver side chain bolts to the front of the brace and needs to be at least 12" long. The passenger side chain is at least 14" long and bolts to the back of the brace. There are bolts on each end installed through the botton of the rectangular stock which secure it to the wood blocking. I simply used deck screws to assemble the wood pieces. Once in place, you can use a set of straps for additional security, however, mine didn't even try to move under load.