Running out of ideas for disengagement issue

[TacitCaucasoid]

Replaced:
Master cylinder
Slave cylinder
Throw out bearing (release bearing)
Pilot bearing
Flywheel
Clutch disk
Pressure plate

(Also did drill mod when I had the old master cylinder. It worked great for about 5 mins then went right back to hard shifting and the clutch not disengaging all the way)

Transmission is filled up with new fluid to the proper level
Clutch was bled for 30+ minutes on numrous accounts

Me and my best friend are out of ideas on what the hell is going wrong.
It is very hard to get the car in gear (usually wehn i slam on the clutch its easier to get into gear)
and don't even get me started for how hard it is to get in reverse.
I can still hear the whirring of the clutch not fully disengaging and it's still hard to shift in gear.
(Also the tires spin when up on jacks when i put it in gear)
We think the clutch line itself may have collasped or balloned up due to possibly nicking the rubber on the inside of the steel hose when doing the drill mod, thus leading to improper volumer/pressure of clutch fuild reaching the slave cylinder.
Hence, why the mod worked great for a few mintues then went back to its old ways.

I'm running out of ideas here and don't have the money for the dealer to "fix"
Also i saw there was a recall on the clutch assembly, I wonder if that applies to the duralast aftermarket too?
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/1999/...ebird/recalls/

[az gt eater]

Prob need to shim the slave cylinder forward. That will give you a longer range of motion to disengage the clutch.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Prob need to shim the slave cylinder forward. That will give you a longer range of motion to disengage the clutch.

This is what I was also going to suggest.

[TacitCaucasoid]

Ok. Ill look into how to do it

[TacitCaucasoid]

I'm not understanding why I would need to shim new, stock replacement parts.
Everything is within facotry spec.
I'm tearing the transmission down this week too because I feel that there's something wrong internally too

- - - Updated - - -

I'm not understanding why I would need to shim new, stock replacement parts.
Everything is within facotry spec.
I'm tearing the transmission down this week too because I feel that there's something wrong internally too

[35th-ANV-SS]

Several aftermarket replacement clutches require you to shim the slave cylinder. Some do not.

To determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not, you need to take two measurements:

Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.

Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.

Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...easurement.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...easurement.jpg

[TacitCaucasoid]

Gotcha
Wouldn't there be a notice as to which ones may need shimming?
Anyways, good info, I'll be taking the trans off again today as long as the weather holds

[35th-ANV-SS]

Every clutch manufacturer is different. RAM, for instance, does not require any shims. SPEC clutches sometimes need a shim and sometimes they do not. I am not sure about other manufacturers.

The above information I posted is from the guys at Tick who deal with clutch installations and supply one of the best MC's out there for our cars.

[TacitCaucasoid]

Everything is within proper spec, i have 1/8" difference.
Gotta be something going on inside. I have her out and broken down a little bit. Me and my best friend are going to tear her open tonight (need a blow torch for those torx/torque bolts)

[TacitCaucasoid]

Picture time!



This is a clutch with less than 1200miles on it and installed properly believe it or not
(Duralast) and i got a new one coming in
pilot bearing is good and the input shaft spins freely


Im also ordering the tick mc and the revised slave
Im just going to cross my fingers about the transmission and hope there is nothing too wrong with it or at least where it wont need immediate attention
I need to save up that 3k for the D&D performance one before my stock one goes out.

[az gt eater]

Wow, that is weird. It looks like the fingers weren't fully disengaging. Some of them. You have matching patterns of burning.

[RedFenix_68]

Damn. Really? a blow torch? lol I just used a hair dryer and then used a "lisle" T-40.....that was after the first two T-40's i went through....One being a duralast...lasted about one try, and the other no name brand last 3 tries and went to shit....transmission is a beeotch haha. But I am learning and having fun...I finally got tired of being upset at my car and the constant failures....so I just take my time with everything now....turns out that it is working better this way instead of rushing or getting upset. Although I may have thrown a crecent wrench today because I busted my knuckles for like the 20th time trying to get a snap ring off. Now I have the snap ring pliers, life is good again. Anyways good luck and hope to hear how everything turns out. I too am having problems in the clutch/slave cylinder area. Shop couldnt figure it out but all they kept doing was replacing the slave cylinder. So now I am going to get an entire kit. Then replace the master cylinder. Anyways enough about me, good luck with your progress.