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10-14-2012, 06:10 AM #1
Tranny screwed, already apart at shop, tellin me $2000..
looks like no one been on here in a while but the hell with it.
i bought a 99 z28 at an estate sale...$3800 black on black, some nice mods, problem was the tranny was popping outta reverse, grinding into first, etc. anyways brought car to a tranny shop and now..$400 just to pull the tranny, not even DONT ANYTHING YET, there telling me $1400 for a rebuild. are you fuggin kidding me? i dont know if i should tell them to put the damn tranny back in and just drive it till it poops, or try to explain to them a rebuild doesnt cost $1400. what should i expect to pay and what normally goes wrong with the t56?99 z28 m6 ss clone
79 Z28 (fast as Fu*k) thanks rich
SLP Loudmouth, Founder's LCA's, BMR APHRD, Tranzilla T56, Exedy clutch SLP Lid FTRA Powerslot rotors 'brock strut brace, SS wheels and SS hood, hurst, 1LE bars, Energy bushs, EBC's
past: 95 T/A, 78 Z28, 98 Z28, 86 Z28, 00 GSXR 600
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10-14-2012, 06:36 AM #2
I know its not the same.... but I had my 4L60E rebuilt when it pooped out on me... they charged $2200 but they were a very reputable transmission shop and they made the car feel brand new. They rebuilt it to handle 500hp and it has a VERY firm shift which I love and since then I have only added a circle d 3000 stall and its been 2 years and have had no problems since and is still as firm as ever.
My point is... as long as its a reputable shop and do great, if not the best transmission work around you I would say its better to pay the extra money to have it done right and not having to worry about it later
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10-14-2012, 08:59 AM #3
yea i guess thats true. at least if something happens later better getting it done locally than taking it somewhere far away for cheaper. Had u joints put in the 79 Z at this place and i have got at least 50 passes on it no problems, high 13's but still. I just wish i knew what i could tell them to upgrade since they are already rebuilding the tranny. i know most guys use a steel 3-4 fork and carbon fiber syncros. and I think billit steel keyways because the stockers are aluminum??? i hope this place knows that. still I dont know what generally goes bad in our T56's
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10-14-2012, 11:32 AM #4
That sounds pretty cheap. The kit alone costs more than that. If you are gonna pay for that work, spend the extra dough and get it done right once...Tick Performance Level 2 Upgraded T56 Rebuild (600RWTQ) for 03-04 Cobra - Tick Performance
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10-14-2012, 01:01 PM #5
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
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- pompano beach florida
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- 33
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- 2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter
Na not really that is the price for a rebuild depending on where you are it may be a little steep for what they are replacing. If they are replacing some gears and sliders in there then the rpice isnt bad but if not then for 1400 I'd expect billet keys on the 1-2 and 3-4 sliders, bronze fork pads, carbon synchros, and a steel 3-4 fork. The whole kit for that spec rebuild from thegearbox.org is $650 and that also includes, bearings, the new sliders for 1-2 and 3-4, as well as carbon synchros. http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/7824166.htm
Typically the t56 has a couple inherent issues. The shift keys are stamped steel not aluminum, but bending or nreaking these will cause the slider to not engage the gear correctly and cause no engagement of the gear or popping out of the gear under load. Next a bent 3-4 fork is common with missed shifts this once again can cause difficulty shifting and popping out of gear. The pads that sit on the forks to engage the synchro sliders are made of nylon plastic over time they wear out and break, these are upgradeable to bronze pads. The synchros in a stock t56 are paper lined and will wear out or deteriorate over time or if synthetic oil is used. This will cause grinding going into gear, these are replaced with carbon units which have a longer life and can use synthetic oil.
Keep in mind that the tick rebuild price includes shipping there and back you only have to remove the tranny. But to the op remember that if the gears are messed up or any parts that arent covered by the rebuild will be extra, new sliders and gears are around 180 a piece new. Pulling the tranny an even rebuilding it isnt hard if you have some tools and time call up TDP or TICK and pick their brains.Last edited by redbird555; 10-14-2012 at 01:09 PM.
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10-14-2012, 03:03 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
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- Branchville, NJ
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Silver & Blue- 02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO
Go to the Gearbox for your rebuild kit and pay the 400.00 now that the tranny is out. Bring you T56 to a qualified trans shop, should be another 300.00 for the build.
My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k
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10-15-2012, 09:07 AM #7
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- Feb 2009
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- 11,785
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
A Stage 2 from Gearbox is around $630, has all the same parts as Tick, same vendor. I priced my local shops and if I bring the transmission in myself the work is around $600. BUT none will warranty the parts because it's not coming from their vendors. I asked will they warranty their work. Only 2 would. They are the ones I'll look to when I get mine done.
One thing though about the Stage 2 - it doesn't come with the Viper second gear. If you still want that you'll have to call Gearbox to see if they still sell it or you can get one from Tick. Last time I check it went for around $200.
The reason they charge you $400 just to drop the transmission is the book tells them it takes 3-4 HRS TO DO SO. If on a lift I can have it down to the fly wheel in an hour with my son helping me.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 10-15-2012 at 10:42 AM.
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10-15-2012, 09:53 AM #8
thanks guys. the big problem is the tranny is already on the bench at the shop so im at the mercy of what they tell me. im gonna relay this to them and hope they can salvage the clutch since the clutch was not slipping. the clutch was chattering a little bit the issue was the tranny was popping out of reverse and very very hard to get into gear.
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10-15-2012, 10:42 AM #9
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
that's forks and syncros....
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10-15-2012, 11:00 AM #10
Ah, the joys of owning the ole T56. Nice trans to have for the double overdrive, but alot of idiosyncrocies when it comes to rebuild time. The price they quoted actually isn't unusual for an independant shop, but I'd ask what they are going to replace. Should be some much needed upgraded parts in that price quote.
I don't think I'd complain though, sounds like you got a decent car for a very cheap price. You could afford to stick some dough in that and still not be in it over your head.
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10-15-2012, 11:47 AM #11
yea thats true. the car has 112k miles, really clean body except for a ding in the rr and the nose needs a respray, front seat is all torn up, but it has a lotta aftermarket stuff, SLP flopac, loudmouth, LCA's, p-rod, strut brace, SS wheels and a SS hood. i guess i cant complain. still needs lots of help cosmetic wise. car was originaly a z28 with that factory ground effects crap which was removed. i dunno.....$3800 i guess is good money considerding i couldnt find a six speed ls1 car for under $6000 here that didnt have 150k miles, and they were all auto's
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10-15-2012, 12:03 PM #12
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10-15-2012, 03:14 PM #13
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- 2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter
to the op jones is right either you better be getting some good upgraded parts at that price or some new gears somewhere. sounds like you you need a typical rebuild. the reverse popping out is either from a worn fork, fork pads, or synchro keys all of which get replaced in a standard rebuild, the hard to get into gear is most likely the synchro which is also replaced with a normal freshen up
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10-16-2012, 07:44 AM #14
im actually looking more at around $1000-$1200 for the rebuild....that being said, i dont know what they are going to replace. its hard as hell to convince this place i know what im talking about when it comes to upgrading the shift fork pads, or using billit steel keyways or carbon syncro pads they sound like im crazy. SOOO wish me luck. thanks redbird for the help. wish i knew what i can tell them SPECIFICALLY to upgrade. I was going to say billit keyways, and bronze fork pads at MINIMUM.
what im gonna do is tell them keep the price around $1200 ish and try to upgrade the shift fork pads with bronze ones, upgrade the slider keys on the 1-2 3-4 forks to billit ones, and maybe thats all i need. i dont think the3-4 fork is bent or anything but i assume that would be bent from missing third gear shifting hard. i dunno. what do you guys think?
nothing has been done yet and i think the clutch might be ok
for a normal rebuild for $1200 ish what can i expect them to replace ballpark idea????Last edited by DaytonaBlues; 10-16-2012 at 07:57 AM.
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10-16-2012, 10:46 AM #15
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
When I went to the shops pricing I had a print off of the stuff that the Gearbox Stage 2 brings and showed it to them. That way I could tell if they knew what they were doing or not. Some shops admitted that they just go off what the book says while others stated they had experience with T56's.
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10-16-2012, 10:53 AM #16
Good idea. As it sounds like the shop he is using may not have much experience with T56's if they act puzzled about some of the upgrade parts he mentioned.
Might be in your best interest to take the car while you can, even if it means loading it on a trailer, and research a shop more qualified for a top notch rebuild.
I personally wouldn't even bother to go through one if I were putting OEM parts back in, seems like alot of work for not fixing the weak areas of the trans while you're already in there. May as well make it better than GM did for the effort involved
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10-16-2012, 01:47 PM #17
I paid $2K for my rebuild
OP - Here are the must upgrades:
3-4 shift fork to steel (stock is aluminum and can bend)
Stock hollow steel stamped synchronizer keys should be upgraded to solid steel keys
bronze shifter bushing (stock is plastic and breaks/wears)
bronze fork pads (stock pads are plastic. The pads press onto the shift forks which move the sliders back and forth to engage the gears. When the plastic pads break or wear, it doesn't let the slider fully engage the gear. This causes the transmission to "pop" out of gear after moving the shifter into that gear. The bronze pads will not break or smash like the plastic pads. The bottom picture shows typical damaged plastic pads.
If you plan on adding power later on, I would also look into the Viper 30 spline main shaft and cryogenic tempering. These two are probably not needed for your application and will add some serious coin to the rebuild.
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10-16-2012, 01:51 PM #18
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Well it's normally around 400 for labor to tear down and rebuild the trans. The rest depends On what they are charging for parts and stuff. Although your list looks good I'd want billet keys for the 1-2 as 3-4. And bronze fork pads, the steel fork isn't ways needed if the old one isn't bent but a new one is only 60 bucks or so why not? If they were just doing synchros and leaving everything then 1200 would be high however if you needed. Couple gears and a slider then 1200 is cheap....
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10-17-2012, 01:00 PM #19
thanks for the help again. they have already told me im at $400 and NOTHING HAS BEEN DONE. thats just for diagnosis and pulling out the tranny soooo i guess im screwed. they told me the clutch was ok so thats good, but the bad is well...im just gonna deal with it. its my DD and i gotta get it soon. if you say 1200 is decent with them upgrading to billit keys and bronze fork pads and thats it then sweet.
MY BIG QUESTION TO YOU ALL is for $1200 from a regular tranny shop, what can i expect, just ballpark idea, what they should do rebuilding the tranny..minus the clutch which was already replaced. i told them to flush the MC and i dont know if the slave cylinder is part of the rebuild since besides the car popping outta gear and grinding going into gear was the fact the clutch engagement was literally 3 inches off the floor. I knew the clutch wasnt fully disengaging so i suspected the MC. the master C seemed ok but the bushing on the END of the master C where the pushrod connects to the clutch pedal was so worn the clutch pedal could be pushed down about 2 inches before it actually moved the Master cylinder rod down......I hope they KNOW THAT because that bushing is IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND.
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10-17-2012, 01:16 PM #20
Sounds like your stuck, hopefully they at least put that $400 towards the repair costs, otherwise I'd pay that $400 and get the hell outta there on a flatbed if I had to.
Hard to say what they'll replace, but I wouldn't expect alot. Probably only do what's needed and slap it back together, no bearings or anything else, (alot of shops bypass bearings if they appear okay) which is kind of pointless to me when you're already in there, especially when you have one with 100k miles. Like I said, I won't tear one down without upgrading all the weak links, replacing bearings, and basically going through the entire thing. It's just too much time spent (my opinion) to open one up and then skimp on replacing other wear items that might appear okay.
Then again maybe they are a decent shop and will do it right. Doubtfull you can stand over their shoulders and watch every step of the way though. Hope it works out.
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