Rack and Pinion Replacement

**79Firebird_99TA** · 07-06-2012, 07:58 AM

I'm about to swap my rack. I also need to swap out my motor mounts. I wasn't planning on doing the mounts today, but I'm thinking that if I did do the mounts, and since I have to raise the engine slightly, maybe I can go ahead and raise the engine up enough I can avoid cutting the rack bolt.

Now the question is how high would I have to raise the engine? I am also assuming that I would need to raise it from above ... or is jacking it up from below an option? I don't have access to my engine hoist at this time. If I have to get it from above, the mounts will be another day.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-06-2012, 08:52 AM

I'm in the same situation. My R&P leak is getting bad. I've looked at the prices on RockAuto but I'm not sure which one I need.

**sjsingle1** · 07-06-2012, 10:48 AM

IF I remember correctly there was NOT enough room to raise the engine high enough to to get that bolt out......it may be better to keep the engine stationary and lower the K......it took all of 5 min to cut that bolt if you think its not to hard

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-06-2012, 11:32 AM

I rather cut the bolt then screw with the engine.

**79Firebird_99TA** · 07-06-2012, 12:57 PM

I cut the bolt. Once I got into it, I realized that I didn't want to screw with jacking up the engine. The motor mounts for another day. That damn bolt wore me out!

**redbird555** · 07-07-2012, 10:02 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

I'm in the same situation. My R&P leak is getting bad. I've looked at the prices on RockAuto but I'm not sure which one I need.

You just need to match the one to your door code assuming you have the FE2 OR FE4 suspension on your door code you would need acdelco# 3616537

**pajeff02** · 07-07-2012, 07:16 PM

Only reason I did not cut the bolt on ours is that I was swapping out the K-member. Why GM installed that bolt from the top is a big mystery.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-09-2012, 08:14 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Only reason I did not cut the bolt on ours is that I was swapping out the K-member. Why GM installed that bolt from the top is a big mystery.

Because it was assembled on a line prior to the engine mounted and then lifted up to the body on the assembly line. Otherwise some jackass engineer didn't think of the mechanics that would need to repair it later on down the road.

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by 79Firebird_99TA

I cut the bolt. Once I got into it, I realized that I didn't want to screw with jacking up the engine. The motor mounts for another day. That damn bolt wore me out!

How long did it take to do the job?

**79Firebird_99TA** · 07-09-2012, 09:44 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Because it was assembled on a line prior to the engine mounted and then lifted up to the body on the assembly line. Otherwise some jackass engineer didn't think of the mechanics that would need to repair it later on down the road.

- - - Updated - - -

How long did it take to do the job?

3 hours.

**79Firebird_99TA** · 07-09-2012, 06:31 PM

Does the rack have to "break-in"? I took the TA and got it aligned today. One of the tie rod ends was worn out, which I replaced both outers.

As I was driving the steering felt "tight" or "stiff" akin to what the older GM cars with the steering gear adjusted down too tight felt. Maybe I had so much slop in the old one, that I just have to get used to it. Is this normal? The steering and straight line tracking felt great ... just wondering if this is normal with a new rack. I don't think it's a bleed issue.

**pajeff02** · 07-10-2012, 02:40 AM

Did you bleed the air out? With the front end raised and the engine running, slowly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock a couple of time while ensuring that the fluid level stays up.

**79Firebird_99TA** · 07-10-2012, 06:30 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Did you bleed the air out? With the front end raised and the engine running, slowly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock a couple of time while ensuring that the fluid level stays up.

Yeah .... I did.... but didn't have the tires off the ground. Maybe there's still some air in it. I knew I was getting air out when removing the cap to refill, it would be pressurized.
Is the tight steering a symptom of air still in the system? I'll go through the bleed process again.