I need HELP. My car won't start

**pajeff02** · 05-16-2012, 04:55 PM

What was the ohm reading on the chip in your key?

**rkrbaker** · 05-16-2012, 05:43 PM

I've got a 2000 LS1 with no mods. It wont cold start. Did you notice if on previous cold starts if there was any hesitation? This happend to me over a period of 3 days. Each time it was harder to cold start and now will not start. I assumed a fuel system. But not sure where to start. This came on fast! Any advise?

Thanks
Bob

**0rion** · 05-16-2012, 06:04 PM

Originally Posted by rkrbaker

I've got a 2000 LS1 with no mods. It wont cold start. Did you notice if on previous cold starts if there was any hesitation? This happend to me over a period of 3 days. Each time it was harder to cold start and now will not start. I assumed a fuel system. But not sure where to start. This came on fast! Any advise?

Thanks
Bob

try turning your key to run and back off without starting the car twice before starting. If it starts right up that means you either have a hole in the hose going from the sock to the pump or your pressure regulator has taken a dump.

**0rion** · 05-16-2012, 06:08 PM

Originally Posted by blackcar

No spare key. I got the resistor I needed yesterday and stuck it in. Still wouldn't start. It was dark and I was in a hurry, so I will try it again.

I bought HPTuners years ago with the intent of learning how to use it and tuning on my first Camaro. Hooked it up one time and changed the fan settings and long story short got busy with life and never used it again. I guess it is time to dig it out and learn how to use it. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

It will probably be this weekend before I can get back out there to it.

even though hptuners is a good diagnostic tool you're still going to have to trouble shoot it the old fashioned way. Verify fuel pressure, check for spark, ect ect. "shooting fuel to the bumper" isn't the right way to check fuel pressure. You can get a gauge for $20 or less. I've seen 2psi keep a truck I had from starting. I would probably buy a spark tester while I was there.

**rkrbaker** · 05-16-2012, 07:30 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

try turning your key to run and back off without starting the car twice before starting. If it starts right up that means you either have a hole in the hose going from the sock to the pump or your pressure regulator has taken a dump.

It did not start. What is different during a cold start vs when it is warm? When it warm it fires right up. Or at least it did. I did not hear the fuel pump fire up when I turned the keys. I'll check the fuse. However, if it is the fuse this time does not explane the sluggish starts prior. Maybe the pump was going bad and the current draw was getting larger.

Thanks,
Bob

**rkrbaker** · 05-16-2012, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by rkrbaker

It did not start. What is different during a cold start vs when it is warm? When it warm it fires right up. Or at least it did. I did not hear the fuel pump fire up when I turned the keys. I'll check the fuse. However, if it is the fuse this time does not explane the sluggish starts prior. Maybe the pump was going bad and the current draw was getting larger.

Thanks,
Bob

Also I wish I could type. lol

**blackcar** · 05-17-2012, 10:10 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

What was the ohm reading on the chip in your key?

On my cheap multimeter it fluctuated from around 4,700 - 4,800. So according to the chart I need 4750. Our radio shack had a 4700.

Originally Posted by 0rion

even though hptuners is a good diagnostic tool you're still going to have to trouble shoot it the old fashioned way. Verify fuel pressure, check for spark, ect ect. "shooting fuel to the bumper" isn't the right way to check fuel pressure. You can get a gauge for $20 or less. I've seen 2psi keep a truck I had from starting. I would probably buy a spark tester while I was there.

I understand what you mean on the fuel preasure. But right now the car is not telling the fuel pump to even come on. The only way I got it to come on was put a jumper over the relay. The ignition relay is getting a signal to come on and I've switched that relay with the starter relay, so I assume that is working. I've got to do some more checking but right now I don't think I'm getting a spark either.

**blackcar** · 06-07-2012, 12:40 PM

Been almost a month and haven't had a chance to get the thing running. I'm really starting to miss it and I want to hear the open headers. I was going to get out there the weekend after my last post and see if I could get it lined out, but I broke my hand that Saturday. The following week the little time I have after work I spent getting ready for our vacation. Then left out the Saturday before Memorial day for vacation. Just got back Sunday. Of course while getting ready to go on vacation the washing machine took a dump. I've got the parts ordered to fix it and I'm really hoping they do not come in untill next week. That way I can spend the weekend getting the car running (one handed). I'm going to get out there tonight and at least check for spark.

**pajeff02** · 06-07-2012, 05:57 PM

Any luck tonight? Sounds like you made it through your 3 bads in a row -- you should be good to go now.

**bvar20** · 06-11-2012, 01:45 AM

You should check the fuses for the computer I think there are two of them one may be blown

Originally Posted by blackcar

Been almost a month and haven't had a chance to get the thing running. I'm really starting to miss it and I want to hear the open headers. I was going to get out there the weekend after my last post and see if I could get it lined out, but I broke my hand that Saturday. The following week the little time I have after work I spent getting ready for our vacation. Then left out the Saturday before Memorial day for vacation. Just got back Sunday. Of course while getting ready to go on vacation the washing machine took a dump. I've got the parts ordered to fix it and I'm really hoping they do not come in untill next week. That way I can spend the weekend getting the car running (one handed). I'm going to get out there tonight and at least check for spark.

**blackcar** · 06-11-2012, 06:39 AM

Didn't get a chance to get out there Thursday or any over the weekend. Things have just been busy.

Originally Posted by bvar20

You should check the fuses for the computer I think there are two of them one may be blown

I have checked every fuse in the tow boxes under the hood and the one just inside the door. By both looking at them and with a volt meter.

**JayTA98** · 06-14-2012, 06:31 AM

I know you are working on the checking the VATS. It could be part of the issue. I tried to see if I can bypass the fuel relay and the starter relay to start the car. The purpose of this was to see if i can override VATS in case the whole module takes a dump and leaves me stranded. unless VATS reads the key resistor the car can crank but it will never start. I can hear the fuel pump running when i bypass the relay prior to start cranking the car. I tried almost every way to bypass the relays and if VATS don't read the correct resistor the car won't start.

But like others have mentioned get a fuel pressure guage and read the pressure when you are bypassing the relay.

you said you were getting 8 volts at the fuel pump harness. It sounds like you have a corroded wire somewhere. did you check 12v at the actual wire or at the end of the electrical plug? I had a car with a bad electrical plug at the fuel pump. It looked fine but no voltage at the plug. When i stick the voltmeter prong in the wire before it goes in the plug it read 12v. Replaced the plug and it worked.

**blackcar** · 06-18-2012, 06:53 AM

Had a little time to get out there over the weekend. Reset the PCM (should of done that first). The security light went off. Tired to start it and it wouldn't even turn over and the security light started blinking. Put the resitor in and did the VATS bypass. Security light went off, car will turn over but still won't start. The fuel pump is still not coming on but works when relay is by passed. Tried to hook my HPTuners up and it can not find VCM. My car has not run in over 6 months and I'm running out of ideas. What's the next step???

**blackcar** · 06-18-2012, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by JayTA98

I know you are working on the checking the VATS. It could be part of the issue. I tried to see if I can bypass the fuel relay and the starter relay to start the car. The purpose of this was to see if i can override VATS in case the whole module takes a dump and leaves me stranded. unless VATS reads the key resistor the car can crank but it will never start. I can hear the fuel pump running when i bypass the relay prior to start cranking the car. I tried almost every way to bypass the relays and if VATS don't read the correct resistor the car won't start.

But like others have mentioned get a fuel pressure guage and read the pressure when you are bypassing the relay.

you said you were getting 8 volts at the fuel pump harness. It sounds like you have a corroded wire somewhere. did you check 12v at the actual wire or at the end of the electrical plug? I had a car with a bad electrical plug at the fuel pump. It looked fine but no voltage at the plug. When i stick the voltmeter prong in the wire before it goes in the plug it read 12v. Replaced the plug and it worked.

The 8 volts I was getting was at the relay. I think it was the wire to tell the relay to kick in.

I put a jumper in on the fuel pump relay and the pump kicked on. Tried to start the car with the jumper in and no go. Where I put the jumper should have been the constant hot and the one that goes to the pump. The other two pins should be ground and the signal, right?? Both of them read 0 with the key off, but read 8 volts with the key on.

**Smittro** · 06-18-2012, 08:51 AM

Pull the pump relay again and look down inside it's socket.

Check for melting, and/or corrosion.

Also see if the connectors that attach to the relay are still intact and did'nt push out the bottom of the box also.

**blackcar** · 06-18-2012, 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Pull the pump relay again and look down inside it's socket.

Check for melting, and/or corrosion.

Also see if the connectors that attach to the relay are still intact and did'nt push out the bottom of the box also.

I'm gonna double check that. I also plann on getting the battery load tested. I don't think that is the problem but I've run out of ideas.

Anyone know why me HPTunes can not connect to the VCM????

**blackcar** · 06-18-2012, 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Pull the pump relay again and look down inside it's socket.

Check for melting, and/or corrosion.

Also see if the connectors that attach to the relay are still intact and did'nt push out the bottom of the box also.

I'm gonna double check that. I'm also going to get the batery load tested. I don't think that is the problem but I've run out of ideas.

Also why won't hptuners connect to vcm???? This is the first time to connect to this car if that makes a difference.

**pajeff02** · 06-18-2012, 12:17 PM

You should be able to scan, but need to license the VIN with your HPTuners to do anything else. Did you buy credits?

**blackcar** · 06-18-2012, 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

You should be able to scan, but need to license the VIN with your HPTuners to do anything else. Did you buy credits?

I bought the HPT years ago. When I logon to there website now it says I have 8 gm credits. Is there somewhere I need to tell it the vin before it will hook up to my current car??