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01-29-2012, 02:44 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
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- Texas
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
Need some help with rocker install
So I have a BARE set of LS6 heads....nothing is on them.
Eventually they will have a set of PRC .650 dual springs, hardened push rods, on top of a torquer V2.
I finally got talked into keeping the stock rockers, with a trunion upgrade kit, its the alloy steel instead of compressed metal, and caged ball bearings instead of the needle bearings.
So I bought a new set of rocker studs, stock, I feel like ARP is overkill for my build, and all their studs come in kits, and I'm afraid Ill get the wrong thing or end up with a bunch of stuff I don't need
First question, How do I install the rocker studs? Ive read some people dip them in a little 30W oil, some people use various thread lockers, kinda opposite. Also, I've read toque specs varying from 35-70 ft/lbs.
I also have no idea what kind of nuts to use, or where to get them
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01-31-2012, 06:06 AM #2
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Laurel, Maryland
- Posts
- 4,975
2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
Didn't we already have this conversation on Facebook?
Just reuse the stock rockerbolts when you take them off of your stock heads when you pull them off the car. You can't install rockers off the car before installing the heads, cause you need to put the pushrods into place before the rockers go on.
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01-31-2012, 11:15 AM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- pompano beach florida
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 1,008
- 2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter
This I'm ot sure what you mean by "studs" normally if you buy aep studs then yes you use some thread lube and just snug them up on the head then when you put the rocker arm you would torque the nut. However stock anchors for the rocker arms arent studs they're bolts. So you would need to have the valves and springs assembled then add the pushrods and then torque the bolts down to 2 ft lbs following the torque procedure
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02-01-2012, 07:09 AM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Texas
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
yeah I was thinking our rockers were stud mount.... FML.....
I would just use the ones i currently have, but I cant have much downtime, and knowing my luck, something will happen to one. So basically for my heads and cam swap, I dont really want any old parts going back on,
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02-01-2012, 08:48 AM #5
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02-01-2012, 09:15 AM #6
I just reused mine.....those bolts only get torqued down to 22 ft/lbs. Not a lot of wear and tear on the bolts.
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02-01-2012, 09:21 AM #7
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- pompano beach florida
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 1,008
- 2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter
this i have reused mine multiple times on 2 different engines. many people say you van just torque them all to 22 and be good to go but there is a procedure to do it from the gm manual. it invoke rotating the motor so a certain valve is closed then tightening like 1,3, and 5. and you just keep repeating the process idr the exact specifics but it should be available online here somewhere. this method ensures all bolts get the exact same torque because they will be torqued down when the valves are all at the same position
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02-01-2012, 06:18 PM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Texas
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
No what I'm saying is, that I'm worried a bolt will be rounded stripped, or snap off during the swap, so the project will be on hold until a new bolt can be found....id rather have a few spares, or just buy a whole new set.
I don't want to depend on old parts being reusable
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02-01-2012, 07:24 PM #9
there would have to be something major go wrong for that to happen. 22lb's ain't shit so those bolts are basically a little over hand tight.
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02-01-2012, 07:36 PM #10
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Laurel, Maryland
- Posts
- 4,975
2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
Hint: start all bolts in threads before you start torquing them down.
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