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Thread: Oil Pump
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08-26-2011, 12:57 PM #1
Oil Pump
since i bought my car a couple weeks ago and i started driving it i noticed the the oil pressure gauge fluctuating under acceleration, it goes from right below the halfway mark while driving, but as soon as i stop it drops to the quarter mark, and today it dropped below the quarter mark, for a sec then back up, my question is, is my oil pump going out? And if so what am i looking at for the reinstall parts only cause ill do it myself, just curious what it entails
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08-26-2011, 01:22 PM #2
Anybody
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08-26-2011, 01:27 PM #3
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
>98 had the only accurate oil & water pressure gauges. 99< are more of a static gauges. Not to be trusted 100% of the time.
Oil pressure also depends on the type your using, engine is cold vs hot, vacuum leaks and idle speed.
Fluctuation is normal as you go through acceleration process. It is normal for it to dip a little when you let off. IT IS NOT NORMAL if it bottoms out or spikes out. On my gauge (98) it goes as high as 70 psi on acceleration and will drop just shy of (est)35 psi when I let off. When I'm at idle and it's cold I'm around est 60psi, after it's warmed up it's around 50 (est) psi.
It could be the OPSU (Oil Pressure Sending Unit) is going out. It is located just behind the intake manifold on the drivers side. Over the many heat cycles it can become brittle. Most ppl break it when removing/installing the intake because you can't really see it well.
You can also get aftermarket gauges and a pillar pod if you really want to know specifics.
If your pump does go and you are able to get the engine turned off before really bad things happen, you will need to replace it.
If your pump does go out this is a very broad detail description of the process: Remove air lid, TB, S-belt, water pump, front cover, timing chain, loosen front half of the oil pan. <<<that is just to get to the pump]
Then you have to carefully remove the bolts that hold the pump, disconnect the tube (pray you don't drop any bolts into the pan, hint use rags to block). Swap pump, reinstall tube, and then reverse previous steps.
Most ppl do this when swapping a new cam and will also do a LS2 timing chain while here. You have to do all of the same work when doing a cam swap minus the oil pump. It takes a while and can be done.
If looking for a new pump at the least go with a LS6 oil pump, ported is better. If you got the coin or are looking for heavy track use there are better brands that obviously cost much more. The LS6 is a very good pump on our LS1's.
Bottom line is it is hard to diagnose it without seeing it in person.
If you have any doubts try to post a quick video of it. Try to show it at idle as well as a few rev ups, and then returning back to idle. With that we could maybe see or hear something.
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08-26-2011, 01:48 PM #4
OK ill get a video
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08-27-2011, 11:12 AM #5
I can't figure out how to upload from photobucket
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08-29-2011, 07:13 AM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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- 11,785
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
You do the same as you would a pic, however on here instead of using the Image Icon, use the Insert Video Icon.
Photobucket Instructions
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f98/how-po...bucket-138199/
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08-29-2011, 07:36 AM #7
Mine was a bit erratic before my LS6 Manifold swap.
I changed the OPSU and its been great ever since.
That could be reason enough to justify an LS6 intake swap
Its alot easier than an oil pump you get some HP and you also find out if its just the OPSU.
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