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Thread: DRL Woes!
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07-18-2011, 07:55 AM #1
DRL Woes!
well, i know this has been debated numerous times,... but i'm trying to see if there's a concenus yet on the best way to "fix" the DRL burn-out problem...
i've replaced numerous bulbs like everyone else, and now it appears one of my DRL socket is bad (the bulb burnt-up, melted some of the plastic stem, leaving a bit of a charred mess in the socket). my DRL lens/housing is busted up good - lots of cracks, looks like hell!
so here's what i've read about DRLs - anyone have pros/cons to this?
1. some folks say the problem is water collecting in the housing: they drill holes in the bottom of the housing.
2. some folks say the problem is excessive heat generated by the bulb, w/ no ventilation. how to fix this w/out going to an LED fixture?
3. buying new housing - are new ones made better, to address (1) and/or (2)?
4. replacing the socket - i've read on here that you can remove the wires from the base of the old socket and afix to the base of the new one (meaning no cutting/splicing of the wires upstream?).
5. switch to LED DRLs - but from what i've read these are largely unproven, and given the cost don't know if worth it..?
so, how are we fixing these problems nowadays?
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07-18-2011, 08:20 AM #2
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Black- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
I drilled my housing.
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07-18-2011, 08:44 AM #3
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07-18-2011, 09:51 AM #4
has drilling the housing stopped the burn-ups? i wonder if it's lack of ventilation, ...a heat dissipation problem as opposed to a moisture drainage problem?
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07-18-2011, 12:37 PM #5
i had the same problem, the filament bulbs put off so much heat, they melt the top of the housings, therefore allowing water to get inside and blowing the bulb and ruining the socket. I got 2 new housings, new sockets, and (2) amber LED bulbs, and replaced the flashers to work with the LEDs. No problems since, and the housings still look brand new.
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07-18-2011, 01:01 PM #6
yeah, and if understand correctly the housings are expensive, ..i'd hate to spend the money w/out solving the dang problem... my aprehension w/ LED is multiple things: cost, compatibility, ease of install (true plug-n-play?), etc.
aren't the DRL bulbs dual filament?
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07-18-2011, 02:04 PM #7
I got the set of housings off ebay for around 25-30 bucks, and the LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com were plug and play with no issues. No further housing melting and have had zero moisture in the housings. I was simply stating what I did to solve the same problem you are having. Imo, it is cheaper than having to keep buying bulbs and damaging the sockets in the long run.
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07-18-2011, 02:51 PM #8
LEDs here no problems either. got my housings from ebay for about $35 each but mine were crack and looked awful. I got my LEDs from V-LEDS.com
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07-18-2011, 04:53 PM #9
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07-18-2011, 04:54 PM #10
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07-18-2011, 05:17 PM #11
You can get both of the housings from AM Auto Parts for $68.40.
Here's video of the switch backs:
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07-18-2011, 06:33 PM #12
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07-18-2011, 07:12 PM #13
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07-18-2011, 08:23 PM #14
that's strange how the color is different when the headlights are on... at least it blinks white-orange-white-orange (headlights) on, because if it was white-off-white-off-white, ..you would hardly be able to see it!
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07-19-2011, 06:19 AM #15
No probelm with the bulbs at all. They are plug and play. 3157 style bulb. I had issues with cheaper bulbs that I bought from ebay. Those were not bright at all. The ones I have from V-LEDs had hold up great. No heat or issues. My buddy had them 3 more months than me and no issues either. Here is the thread i did about them.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...from-VLEDS.com
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07-19-2011, 06:34 AM #16
thanks jay!
good to hear they are holding up so far.. . i'll revisit your thread about them, ...i like "plug-in-play", ..i'm starting to think the LED solution might be a little pricey up front, but if the LED element life is long (most LEDs are, but IDK about in an automotive environment) it might be the best approach.. I do realize that LEDs certainly are the future in lighting!
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09-24-2011, 06:40 PM #17
ok, i installed the new DRL housing, ...there's a black rubber cap that covers a hole in the back wall of it.. i took the cap off (thinking this would allow it to ventilate in case of excessive heat buildup... did i do the right thing, or are we supposed to keep that cap on?
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09-24-2011, 06:49 PM #18
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Quick Silver- 2002 Z06
We have had great luck with just replacing the factory gasket with an over sized gasket that we sell.
If your housing is cracked and messed up it may not help but my 98 with over 200k on the clock has no issues after I replaced the gaskets.
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09-25-2011, 06:18 AM #19
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09-25-2011, 10:56 AM #20
so i should put the cap back on?
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