Tips for a beginner level install

**allbaugh_04** · 05-16-2011, 10:59 AM

x2 on flipping the adjustment screw. Maybe a t10 or t15 torx bit.

**Naaman** · 05-17-2011, 12:16 AM

Yeah, it's a t15. And that's another one of those straight forward ideas that I wish I would have thought of on my own....

**Naaman** · 05-19-2011, 11:34 AM

Originally Posted by Potz_Speed

just a couple fyi's...

you can also always flip the idle screw upside down for easier access in the future. also double check that the throttle cable-cam is resting on the screw and that the t/b is not hanging open for an attachment reason.

with the install of the modified t/b, you really should not need a tune or really even adjust the screw. if the idle hangs or seems to search, make double sure the red rubber o-ring was re-installed on the iac sensor and that there was no damage to the o-ring during the process.

if the o-ring and sensor are good to go, then a few start-stops of the motor and the tps should automatically go into re-learn and and self adjust for the new t/b. if in doubt or u would prefer to by-pass the few "start-stops", you can always do a manual re-learn of the tps.

if still have problems and everything already listed checks out, just try to recheck the obvious things again. also take a look at the idle air hole on the blade to make sure its the same size as it was originally and that you have not picked-up a t/b with an altered blade. it seems that 99.9% of our idle after install problems are o-ring or install related.

Okay, so... My car's idling rough and kinda sputtering at initial acceleration...
Had it checked at AutoZone and got P0102 (MAF Low Voltage) and P0122 (TPS Low Voltage).

**Potz_Speed** · 05-19-2011, 01:22 PM

is this the same tps that was on the original/stock tb?

**Naaman** · 05-19-2011, 02:18 PM

Sure is... If I'm identifying the parts correctly.

The TB I got was just the throttle body. I had to remove the little plug-in thingies from my old TB and put them onto my new TB before the install.

**Potz_Speed** · 05-19-2011, 02:34 PM

my suggestion(s).... double check to make sure the sensor is securely attached. loose screws would = bad reads as the sensor would not remain stationary. also, compare where your idle screw is set at on your original tb and where you have it at on the new tb.

if all looks well, this next part is gonna suck.... remove the ported tb and reinstall the stocker. if it continues to run poorly then you have concluded that its not the modified tb and can in your mind justify looking in other places for the problem. if it does run better, i would reinstall the ported one and see where i stand. if it runs like crap again then it could be a few other things pertaining to the tb its self. i am an old guy and all about the deduction thing lol.

**Potz_Speed** · 05-19-2011, 02:37 PM

also here is a pretty decent reference site...

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=11

**Naaman** · 05-19-2011, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by Potz_Speed

my suggestion(s).... double check to make sure the sensor is securely attached. loose screws would = bad reads as the sensor would not remain stationary. also, compare where your idle screw is set at on your original tb and where you have it at on the new tb.

if all looks well, this next part is gonna suck.... remove the ported tb and reinstall the stocker. if it continues to run poorly then you have concluded that its not the modified tb and can in your mind justify looking in other places for the problem. if it does run better, i would reinstall the ported one and see where i stand. if it runs like crap again then it could be a few other things pertaining to the tb its self. i am an old guy and all about the deduction thing lol.

I did try lowering the screw ever so slightly to reduce the idle speed, so that could be a contributor. Also, I read your earlier post and plan to check the O-rings before I take the whole thing apart. Fortunately, it's a relatively simple process...

**Naaman** · 05-20-2011, 06:14 AM

Last night after work I removed the TPS and looked inside. There didn't seem to be anything wrong (though this is the first TPS I've ever looked at...). I also flipped and adjusted the screw, raising the throttle a teeny bit (I measured it to the same height as my old TB).

I put everything back together and the engine ran perfectly smooth. But at mid to high rpm, there was a sort of pulsating happening in the motor that I could feel in the gear shifter. You know how the motor sputters if you attempt to go WOT in too high a gear? Well, it felt kinda like that but it was happening in every gear (except 1st... I didn't spend much time in 1st). The acceleration was strong, but this pulsating thing was really weird. It was more rapid and more subtle than the effect of WOT from low rpm in high gear.

Anyway... I left for work this morning and the sputtering seems to have returned and as I was driving on the freeway, I noticed a lack of power... and the sputtering/juttering from the motor. I looked at my gear shift and it was shaking pretty hard. About 4 miles onto the freeway the SES light started flashing on and off so I pulled over and had it towed home.

I'm planning on taking it to the performance shop to have it checked out, but first I'm going to try putting my old part back on...

Question:
Is it possible to put the bolts/screws in too tight? If so, why would that cause a problem?

**SMWS6TA** · 05-20-2011, 06:48 AM

need to know what codes are?

Post and we can try to help.

**transamtom** · 05-20-2011, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

need to know what codes are?

Post and we can try to help.

Wouldn't a flashing ses mean a misfire?

**SMWS6TA** · 05-20-2011, 07:04 AM

most of the time yes.

**Naaman** · 05-20-2011, 07:56 AM

Yep. P0302. Also, there are two codes listed for this. One of them is P0302, and the other is the same but with a little symbol next to it. Looks like a "p" and a "d" caddy cornered from each other.

There are also the same two codes from before: 0102 and 0122.

**transamtom** · 05-20-2011, 08:47 AM

The 0302 is a misfire cylinder 2 check your plug and wire first.

The 0102 is a MAF code low input.

The 0122 is TP sensor low input.

Check your MAF connection to make sure you didn't bend a prong when you put it back on.

**Naaman** · 05-20-2011, 09:18 AM

For the misfire, could it be something as simple as a loose connection?

If I did bend a prong... then what?

**transamtom** · 05-20-2011, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by Naaman

For the misfire, could it be something as simple as a loose connection?

If I did bend a prong... then what?

First check the wire for damage to see if its melted or cut or seperating from the boots.

Then make sure the spark plug wire is double clicked on the coil side,make sure its tight on the plug side.

If that doesn't do it change the plug.

If the prong on the MAF is bent straighten it with some small needle nose pliers or a small screw driver.

There should be 4 prongs if there isn't then you have broke one in the connector and you will need a new MAF.

**Naaman** · 05-20-2011, 01:14 PM

So... It's cool to just change one plug? The plugs are 7 years old and have 23,000 miles on them.

**transamtom** · 05-20-2011, 03:01 PM

Originally Posted by Naaman

So... It's cool to just change one plug? The plugs are 7 years old and have 23,000 miles on them.

You should probably change them all,but your trying to find the source of the misfire.

Why waste time on the other 7 now? #2 is where the problem is.

You can get to them later.

**Naaman** · 05-20-2011, 10:35 PM

Okay, so I bought a OBD2 scanner cause I'm sick of having to take a trip every time I want to diagnose my car. Also, once I checked the plug wire for #2, I found it was indeed loose. I also checked all the prongs on the sensors. All looked good.

I put the plug wire back on and erased all the codes. Took it for a couple miles drive, with some good sprints up to the redline. Strong pulls all the way. The Z is back to her old self.

I suspect that the MAF and TPS codes were probably from when I started the car during the install (cleaning) of the throttle body and intake manifold, with all the sensors unplugged. The PCM probably logged the codes and then just stopped worrying about them once I got everything hooked up. That's why they showed up the day before the SES light came on without triggering the light themselves... I'm guessing.

This forum is an invaluable resource for amateur and newb DIY-ers like myself. Saved me $250 worth of parts and labor. Thanks to everyone for all their input.