1/8 mile times to expect

[Firebirdjones]

That's cool, I'd drive it that way if I knew I could get away with it

I like the T56 for what it has to offer, I just wish GM put some better parts in it from the get go. One of these days I'll have to go through ours, and I'll look at what I can do to make it better internally. Not sure I can get a smooth shifting feel out of it though, after a few different shifters on it that only made it worse, I'll have to see what can be done internally. I fear alot of it is just a product of rail style shifters though.
I just did a retro swap of a TKO 600 for my neighbor in his 61 vette, which is a tremec with a rail style shifter. Drove it,,,and it's the same stinkin' way,,,notchy piece of sh$( I wouldn't feel comfortable whaling on that one either.

[02sunsetorangeZ]

theres no way he "spun" and ran an 8.5. Maybe he chirped when he went into second but i think everyones car does that

o so the fact that u can here the rpms jump up and him pedal through it to grab some traction... I guess thats not considered spinning

[35th-ANV-SS]

I fear alot of it is just a product of rail style shifters though.

100% that

[Lunatikgixxer]

o so the fact that u can here the rpms jump up and him pedal through it to grab some traction... I guess thats not considered spinning

well i just call that chirping. spinning for me is getting no traction all the way down the 1/8th. Every high horsepower car will "spin".

[Smittro]

That's cool, I'd drive it that way if I knew I could get away with it

I like the T56 for what it has to offer, I just wish GM put some better parts in it from the get go. One of these days I'll have to go through ours, and I'll look at what I can do to make it better internally. Not sure I can get a smooth shifting feel out of it though, after a few different shifters on it that only made it worse, I'll have to see what can be done internally. I fear alot of it is just a product of rail style shifters though.
I just did a retro swap of a TKO 600 for my neighbor in his 61 vette, which is a tremec with a rail style shifter. Drove it,,,and it's the same stinkin' way,,,notchy piece of sh$( I wouldn't feel comfortable whaling on that one either.

You guys ever think about cryo treatment, or heat treating some or all for the steel internals? That's what us puller (FWD) car guys do to our muncies, makes them nearly bullet proof engough for "V8 Archies" monster v8's can be ran next to our muncies.(google it you will want one). We also switch out to bronze instead of plastic coated brass synchros or composites.. (yup that's right plastic synchros) There's no mistaking what gear your in or headed for with the bronze setup. You can even shift with no clutch.. Or for the younger guys that means pulling the shifter out of gear (wont harm the transmission in the slightest if you're NOT on it) without pushing the clutch in.. Then bringing up engine rpms to match the trans and the shifter will actually slide right into the next gear with out assistance of the clutch..

Disclaimer: I no NOT recommend anyone just yank it out of gear and try jamming the next.. Manually synchronizing gears takes MUCH practice.. But truck drivers live buy it sometimes..

[MrMasterCraft]

my brother went out with bolt ons and stock 3.42s, no tune spinning through second he ran 8.5. That was his fastest time, had 245's too

When I ran, I went into 3rd right before the 1/8th on factory gears...

So spinning all of first and INTO second, running 8.50s?? Hmm... mods/mph requested or I call

[Lunatikgixxer]

When I ran, I went into 3rd right before the 1/8th on factory gears...

So spinning all of first and INTO second, running 8.50s?? Hmm... mods/mph requested or I call

thank you someone agrees with me. i get about halfway through 3rd and i ran an 8.8 with bald tires. If theres nothing but bolt ons i call bs because i have more than bolt ons when i ran.

[Firebirdjones]

thank you someone agrees with me. i get about halfway through 3rd and i ran an 8.8 with bald tires. If theres nothing but bolt ons i call bs because i have more than bolt ons when i ran.

Do I understand that correctly? You think you need more than bolt ons to go 8.50??

I went 8.40 1/8th mile and have nothing but a converter and headers, still the stock catback and all, and running on stock rubber. It dips into the 12's easily at about 107 mph.

My other 4th gen, a 6 speed, has an LS6 cam and headers, that's it. Still running the stock catback on that one also, and it goes 8.50 1/8 mile with a very cushy 60 foot to save the rear, and dips into the 12's at 111+ mph.

[MrMasterCraft]

Do I understand that correctly? You think you need more than bolt ons to go 8.50??
I went 8.40 1/8th mile and have nothing but a converter and headers, still the stock catback and all, and running on stock rubber. It dips into the 12's easily at about 107 mph.

My other 4th gen, a 6 speed, has an LS6 cam and headers, that's it. Still running the stock catback on that one also, and it goes 8.50 1/8 mile with a very cushy 60 foot to save the rear, and dips into the 12's at 111+ mph.

I've seen a lid/LS6 intake/LT/ORY/GMMG go 8.1(mph?) on factory rubber with a surprising 1.9 60' time. It was an '01 TA, under 10k miles, M6 car. No wheelspin. I had shorties/LM1 and a lid when I went 8.90@87mph with a 2.1/.2 60' time. I spun almost not quite all of first, but had already hooked before going into 2nd. And all I could muster was a 8.9. That trap speed should be sitting damn near 8 flat in some books, weather permitting.

I guess anything is possible, just a little hard to beleive, seeing as how the car spun ALL of first, and apparently atleast INTO second, and still acheived 8.5

[Lunatikgixxer]

Do I understand that correctly? You think you need more than bolt ons to go 8.50??

I went 8.40 1/8th mile and have nothing but a converter and headers, still the stock catback and all, and running on stock rubber. It dips into the 12's easily at about 107 mph.

My other 4th gen, a 6 speed, has an LS6 cam and headers, that's it. Still running the stock catback on that one also, and it goes 8.50 1/8 mile with a very cushy 60 foot to save the rear, and dips into the 12's at 111+ mph.

no not at all man. I believe it for sure with an a4 but u didnt quite read the whole post. He said he SPUN all the way through first and through a little bit of 2nd. There is no way that it could do that spinning. Like master said he spun and like i said, i spun and we ran similar times. Doesnt really matter the mods in the 1/8th its more about the launch and an a4 will get moving faster and with good tires, u will stick better. I believe the times but not with the spinning of the wheels. I spun all the way through 1st, half way through second and when i got into third i spun quite a bit and ran an 8.89 at 87mph. If he spun like that. Theres no way

[02sunsetorangeZ]

lol go read my post i didnt say first i said second and i didnt say sall through second shit get it right. i said he pedaled and had to get it from quitting spinning clearly happened. it was a few years back i wanna say his trap was 88 or 90 cant remember. The track to close for a lil bit due to people quit going out there becuase it was a shit track. now its under new management and completey fine.

[mammoth713]

looks like i need to launch harder and shift faster...

my best was

Reaction___0.6630
60 ft______2.2161
330 ft_____6.0178
594 ft_____8.4939

1/8mi______9.0421
mph_______82.09



i didnt lower my tire pressure tho as well as having a full tank of gas, so that might have hurt me... maybe?

[Firebirdjones]

looks like i need to launch harder and shift faster...

my best was

Reaction___0.6630
60 ft______2.2161
330 ft_____6.0178
594 ft_____8.4939

1/8mi______9.0421
mph_______82.09



i didnt lower my tire pressure tho as well as having a full tank of gas, so that might have hurt me... maybe?

Probably not. I find on street tires, the more gas you have in the tank the more beneficial it is. You need that weight over the rear. I never bothered to lower tire pressures on stock rubber either. As a matter of fact I find them to work better with more air,,,but you have to experiment.

I cut a 1.92 60 foot without even trying hard, on the very first pass. Full tank of gas and 40 psi of air.

[redss2000]

looks like i need to launch harder and shift faster...

my best was

Reaction___0.6630
60 ft______2.2161
330 ft_____6.0178
594 ft_____8.4939

1/8mi______9.0421
mph_______82.09



i didnt lower my tire pressure tho as well as having a full tank of gas, so that might have hurt me... maybe?

That's about what I ran 4 years ago...I havn't been to the track since then. I'd like to think I'm better at shifting and would be able to pull off a better time.

[Lunatikgixxer]

on street radials there is no need to lower the pressure. Theyre not DRs. There is also no need to do an excessive burn out because SR's arent made to grip better when heated, they are made for the road in different weather conditions, u are just wearing your tires down faster with a burn out overload. With the lowered pressure in the street radials the edges of the tires seem to sag and it causes the middle to buckle up and only the outside of the tires are being used, with normal tire pressure the whole tire is on the ground, more tire = more rubber and more grip. No need to deflate the SR's.

[mammoth713]

on street radials there is no need to lower the pressure. Theyre not DRs. There is also no need to do an excessive burn out because SR's arent made to grip better when heated, they are made for the road in different weather conditions, u are just wearing your tires down faster with a burn out overload. With the lowered pressure in the street radials the edges of the tires seem to sag and it causes the middle to buckle up and only the outside of the tires are being used, with normal tire pressure the whole tire is on the ground, more tire = more rubber and more grip. No need to deflate the SR's.

hmm.. well i abstained from doing any burnouts because i have heard this before and it makes sense..guess i'll leave the tire pressure where it was then too.

i wonder how the hell my friend in a 95 lt1 camaro ran a 9.08 or some shit. all he had was M6, lingenfelter CAI, LM1 catback.... same night as me too, same conditions..

I should mention I was running 245 firehawk wideovals (the previous generation, the new ones suck).. he was running 275 raptors or something?

With street tires, does tire width matter for traction?

the laws of physics as i understand it, larger tire width doesnt directly give more traction/friction because the larger surface area bears a lower amount of pressure @ each point thus canceling out the surface area from friction equations.. one would expect a 275 tire to have more grip than a 245 tire.. i guess this isnt directly the case? However, if you have a drag radial made of a really sticky compound, it will make a world of a difference obviously. So theoretically, a 245 drag compound tire would do way better than a 315 street tire..

correct me if i'm wrong.

[Lunatikgixxer]

hmm.. well i abstained from doing any burnouts because i have heard this before and it makes sense..guess i'll leave the tire pressure where it was then too.

i wonder how the hell my friend in a 95 lt1 camaro ran a 9.08 or some shit. all he had was M6, lingenfelter CAI, LM1 catback.... same night as me too, same conditions..

I should mention I was running 245 firehawk wideovals (the previous generation, the new ones suck).. he was running 275 raptors or something?

With street tires, does tire width matter for traction?

the laws of physics as i understand it, larger tire width doesnt directly give more traction/friction because the larger surface area bears a lower amount of pressure @ each point thus canceling out the surface area from friction equations.. one would expect a 275 tire to have more grip than a 245 tire.. i guess this isnt directly the case? However, if you have a drag radial made of a really sticky compound, it will make a world of a difference obviously. So theoretically, a 245 drag compound tire would do way better than a 315 street tire..

correct me if i'm wrong.

sounds about right id have to agree with you.

[Firebirdjones]

I got lost in all the mumbo jumbo

But anyway, tire height has just as much to do with contact patch as tire width. A taller tire has more rollout, or more contact patch.

Every watch some of the drag radial class racing?? Some are limited to a 10.5" tire width, but they don't limit the tire height in the rules.
So these guys run 30-32" tall tires (as much as they can fit) to get more contact patch on the ground, as well as to cushion the shock or the hit on the tires.

Running and hooking on a street tire takes experimenting and alot of tricks if you are dedicated to making it work. Brands of tires differ on how they react to burnouts, tire pressure etc...

When I ran stock F70-14 polyglass goodyear tires in Pure Stock racing, they liked a healthy smokey burnout, they just seemed to hook better that way. They also responded well to about 45 psi of pressure.
On a radial tire, say something like a 275-40/17 found on a 4th gen, they don't seem to respond as much to big smokey burnouts from my experience, but rather a short clean dry hop of 10-15 feet or so just to clean them off.
Letting air out of them never did anything for me, and on this particular size, like I said before, 40 psi worked well on my 4th gens. These short profile tires are not the best choice for this sort of thing either.

Just something you'll have to play with and be willing to put some time in. Might take 10-15 passes to find a happy spot.

[MrMasterCraft]

There's no need to get into complocated theories and such....

Is a 245/255 DR better than a 315 street radial? Not to be a dick, but your laws of physics have no bearing on this. You're getting into tire compound, and you would have to read a little further into it. Whats the tire composed of? When scuffed at a certain temperature, what is the end result? At what temperature of the contact surface, would you get staggering differences of results? The variance between them? This is too much....

The answer lies in a much simpler form... by making weekly visits to your local track for about a month or two. Talk to the racers. Get their opinions. Get to know their setups (suspension-wise more importantly). I beleive this will answer any and all questions.

Personally, I would rather run a 255/50/16 on my factory snowflake Z wheels, than to run 315s on the TTIIs with a much thinner sidwall... serious racers with more than a few thousand into their rides, well... there's a reason they cut and tub 'em

Jones - Tire height as in sidewall or overall height? I've read your post twice and can't seem to decipher... but I hope your not referring to overall height. Wouldn't make much sense to me. Sidewall height is where you'll see any given DR/Slick "flex" to grab and go. If you see it differently, please explain, I'd like to know

[Firebirdjones]

There's no need to get into complocated theories and such....

Is a 245/255 DR better than a 315 street radial? Not to be a dick, but your laws of physics have no bearing on this. You're getting into tire compound, and you would have to read a little further into it. Whats the tire composed of? When scuffed at a certain temperature, what is the end result? At what temperature of the contact surface, would you get staggering differences of results? The variance between them? This is too much....

The answer lies in a much simpler form... by making weekly visits to your local track for about a month or two. Talk to the racers. Get their opinions. Get to know their setups (suspension-wise more importantly). I beleive this will answer any and all questions.

Personally, I would rather run a 255/50/16 on my factory snowflake Z wheels, than to run 315s on the TTIIs with a much thinner sidwall... serious racers with more than a few thousand into their rides, well... there's a reason they cut and tub 'em

Jones - Tire height as in sidewall or overall height? I've read your post twice and can't seem to decipher... but I hope your not referring to overall height. Wouldn't make much sense to me. Sidewall height is where you'll see any given DR/Slick "flex" to grab and go. If you see it differently, please explain, I'd like to know

Sorry I should have split that up and explained that a little more in depth. I meant both actually for 2 different reasons.

Tire height as in sidewall height, you are correct about the sidewall flex, when I mentioned it helps to hook the car as it absorbs the initial shock. You are right, more sidewall, the better.

Tire height as in overall height I was referring to the contact patch on the ground. More height, or the taller the tire, the more contact patch you get on the ground.