View Poll Results: What Oil Do You Use
- Voters
- 488. You may not vote on this poll
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Synthetic
425 87.09% -
Dino
40 8.20% -
Blended dino/synthetic off the shelf
17 3.48% -
I mix my own
6 1.23%
Results 1,081 to 1,100 of 1385
Thread: I'm a Oil Junkie
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08-31-2010, 06:46 AM #1081
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08-31-2010, 05:17 PM #1082
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08-31-2010, 05:43 PM #1083
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- knowhere
- Posts
- 67
I reset it right when I dropped in the new oil. The weird thing is the light comes on when I start it but goes away right when I pull off. Strange...
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09-01-2010, 07:40 AM #1084
Mine did that till I pressed the button for 12 seconds....lol
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09-05-2010, 03:29 PM #1085
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Fort Smith, Arkansas
- Posts
- 2
Dark Cherry Metalic- 1997 Tahoe custom
Oil Poll
I use Synthetic in everything I own, except for the two stroke oil trick in the gas that I learned from you. Good info! Thanks
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10-04-2010, 02:30 PM #1086
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- knowhere
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- 67
Got my UOA for my 02 trans am. Please tell me what you all think... (Sampled at 5k miles, 29k miles on motor, previously was mobil 1 synthetic)
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10-05-2010, 01:05 PM #1087
Nice report!
The oil viscosity at 100C is spot on at 10.6 so we know the oil is holding up well in terms of maintaining the correct viscosity. It’s not thinning or thickening with use, it’s where it should be.
The Total Base Number is still at 6.18 which is good. That means the oil still has plenty of detergency left in it which SSO has a starting TBN 13.2.
The multi-source-metal MOLYBDENUM is commonly used as part of a motor oils additive package. But not used in SSO, which is why OAI flagged it. It’s probably traces left over from the last motor oil used or from some other contaminate source.
This particular fill of oil was introduced at 24,000-miles on the engine, so the presence of some Wear Metals of Iron and Chromium could very well be from the engine still breaking-in, or could represent average wear for a typical LS1 engine, or could be from the 10% of time this car spends racing at the drag strip.
The wear metal COPPER usually spikes up when a motor oil product has been switched in the engine. It’s most likely temporary and doesn’t posse a problem.
I think this UOA looks fine, but future UOAs should be done to make sure no other problems show up. From what I see here, this engine with this oil and these driving habits, the oil should be able to make 10,000-mile/1-Year oil change intervals with no problems. Just as long as you keep up with normal maintenance items like PVC, proper use of paper or nanofiber air filters, spark plugs, clean fuel injectors, etc.
Thanks for sharing!
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10-19-2010, 02:43 PM #1088
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- Location
- NY
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 4
- 08 Chrysler
Just bought a new Jeep wrangler and I've been doing the "drive it like you stole it" break in method. My question is what kind of oil do I use right now? It has 525 miles on it, all very hard driven and I need to flush the oil out of it...I've read that the recommended synthetic oil should not be used just yet. What do I need right now? Should I change the oil filter as well. Thanks!
BTW its 3.8L engine
Also, what kind of oil should I use for regular fills? The manual says to use 5w20 oil, so should I stay away from full synthetic oil?
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10-20-2010, 01:52 AM #1089
Full Synthetic
Absolutely not. A full synthetic will work great in a new engine. In fact, many new cars and trucks come with synthetic oil from the factory.
Also, most “Full Synthetics” are just highly refined conventional petroleum based oil pumped from within the earth anyway. It’s just processed in different ways. So it’s your choice – Refined? Or Highly Refined? I’d go with Highly Refined.
***edited out product advertisement***0rionLast edited by 0rion; 10-20-2010 at 06:34 PM.
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10-20-2010, 03:49 PM #1090
Compsyn, read in my monthly amsoil mag that the XL line of oils are a little differnt then it use to be, Do you know what they changed? I run the XL line my daily driver.
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10-21-2010, 03:05 AM #1091
Gf-5/sn
Yes, the XL line has been reformulated and is now GF-5/SN. It's the latest motor oil performance specifications as set by the API and ILSAC.
Basically, it's a better oil for the same price.
Also, the XL line is a great choice for a daily driver where maximum performance is not the primary objective.
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11-01-2010, 07:10 PM #1092
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- IN
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- 2,148
I use Castrol Synthetic and an ACDelco filter...
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11-18-2010, 01:13 PM #1093
It seems to me there is good talk about the PP oil. What about the P Ultra? I have 210,000 on the DD SS, and want to use the PP or PU but am not sure if i should stay with 10w30. Maybe time to switch to 10w40? Help!
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11-18-2010, 01:18 PM #1094
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11-18-2010, 04:53 PM #1095
So when would someone start using the 10w40? Much heat and many miles just have me wanting some more protection for the motor.
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11-19-2010, 02:36 PM #1096
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12-18-2010, 04:05 AM #1097
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12-20-2010, 02:04 PM #1098
Have you ever heard of swepco 502 engine oil improver? Someone I know uses it as an additive in his track cars.
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12-20-2010, 02:15 PM #1099
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Texas Department of Corrections
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- 18,128
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
ZDDP. Is he running a flat tappet cam?
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12-20-2010, 02:26 PM #1100
He runs them in his miata's and fiat 510's. I can only guess the miata wouldn't be a flat tappet. You guessing it has a zinc additive?
by pictures I have looked up zddp is a different brand but I can't comment on any differences.
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