shocks n springs

[98Bruiser]

I have a 98 WS6 TA I want to lower it for looks its a weekend car only what's is the best and most affordable spring? Do I have to change shocks? What else has to be changed when lowering a car

[shady milkman]

I have a 98 WS6 TA I want to lower it for looks its a weekend car only what's is the best and most affordable spring? Do I have to change shocks? What else has to be changed when lowering a car

well best and affordable rarely go together...i can tell you that lowering is not cheap...you need shocks, adj. panhard bar, adj. torque arm, adj. lower control arms.


the best is going to be the koni single adjustable shocks, and for springs, the stranos. these can be found at strano parts ....for the other suspension stuff look into UMI..their stuff is made in america and their quality and support is awesome.

[Y2KPewterSS]

well best and affordable rarely go together...i can tell you that lowering is not cheap...you need shocks, adj. panhard bar, adj. torque arm, adj. lower control arms.


the best is going to be the koni single adjustable shocks, and for springs, the stranos. these can be found at strano parts ....for the other suspension stuff look into UMI..their stuff is made in america and their quality and support is awesome.

You don't have to have adj. torque arm or adjustable lower control arms to lower the stance. You definitely need, shocks, springs, adjustable panhard and lower control arms and relocation brackets are beneficial as well. Its not a must to get a new torque arm when you lower the stance though.

[shady milkman]

You don't have to have adj. torque arm or adjustable lower control arms to lower the stance. You definitely need, shocks, springs, adjustable panhard and lower control arms and relocation brackets are beneficial as well. Its not a must to get a new torque arm when you lower the stance though.

well you dont need a panhard bar either...however to keep stockish geometry you need them to adjust your pinion angle and center ...

[35th-ANV-SS]

Agreed with Shady, but not so much on the Torque Arm. Yes, the pinion angle will be off, but pinion angle is not the end of the world unless you are making some very hard launches.

[Y2KPewterSS]

well you dont need a panhard bar either...however to keep stockish geometry you need them to adjust your pinion angle and center ...

I would disagree with that. Often, even with the stock setup, the rearend isn't centered properly. Adding an adjustable panhard to even the stock setup is a good idea.

[shady milkman]

I would disagree with that. Often, even with the stock setup, the rearend isn't centered properly. Adding an adjustable panhard to even the stock setup is a good idea.

well you dont need a panhard bar either...however to keep stockish geometry you need them to adjust your pinion angle and center ...

i dont think we are on the same page preston ...For the reason you just posted to have the panhard bar is the exact same reason you should have the torque arm .....neither is needed..actually the only thing absolutely needed to lower the car is springs...but to do it right...you need good shocks, adj. panhard, adj. torque arm, adj. lca ...... you cant say a panhard bar is needed to realign the suspension geometry while ignoring everything else ...they all work together

[shady milkman]

Agreed with Shady, but not so much on the Torque Arm. Yes, the pinion angle will be off, but pinion angle is not the end of the world unless you are making some very hard launches.

i never said the end of the world..but in that same case ...none of the suspension pieces mentioned are end of the world ..a off center rear is not the end of the world on a DD/street car that is lowered..or such....but to keep proper suspension geometry ..the whole rear suspension needs to be adjusted when lowering springs are involved.

[BIG_MIKE2005]

i dont think we are on the same page preston ...For the reason you just posted to have the panhard bar is the exact same reason you should have the torque arm

No, a torque arm has absolutely nothing to do with centering the rear in the car. The only thing a torque arm does is lock in pinion angle & help keep the rear end in the car.

All a panhard bar is gonna do is allow you to perfectly center the rear end in the car. Preston is correct that from the factory the rear isnt perfectly centered.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I think the point is that when you lower your car, the rear end is even MORE off-centered than it is at stock height.

[shady milkman]

No, a torque arm has absolutely nothing to do with centering the rear in the car. The only thing a torque arm does is lock in pinion angle & help keep the rear end in the car.

All a panhard bar is gonna do is allow you to perfectly center the rear end in the car. Preston is correct that from the factory the rear isnt perfectly centered.

i dont think i ever said it centered the rear...read my posts again. i said for the same reason preston thinks a panhard bar is needed ( to correct suspension geometry) is the same reason a torque arm is needed when lowering..to correct the suspension's geometry

[MrKid]

Required:
Shocks
Springs

Recommended:
Adj. Panhard
Adj. Control arms
Relocation mounts

My car is dropped almost 2 inches, with non adjustable LCA's or Torque arm and no relocation mounts. My rearend was over about an inch before the panhard was installed.

[Y2KPewterSS]

i dont think we are on the same page preston ...For the reason you just posted to have the panhard bar is the exact same reason you should have the torque arm .....neither is needed..actually the only thing absolutely needed to lower the car is springs...but to do it right...you need good shocks, adj. panhard, adj. torque arm, adj. lca ...... you cant say a panhard bar is needed to realign the suspension geometry while ignoring everything else ...they all work together

There is a specific reason why I wouldn't recommend doing a torque arm simply for lowering. When you have a stock 10 bolt, and you add an aftermarket torque arm, lower control arms and other suspension goodies, there is absolutely no give or flexibility. It adds a lot of stress to the stocker 10 bolt. We all know how weak the 10 bolt is to begin with. I have seen someone that had all the suspension goodies we have mentioned minus an aftermarket torque arm. The week he added the aftermarket torque arm, you guessed it, that 10 bolt went kaboom. Thats why I would not recommend nor do I think its a good idea or necessary to get an aftermarket torque arm for a 10 bolt, lowered or not. If you have upgraded your rear and lowered the car, by all means, go for it, add that torque arm.

[Z28Thunder]

There is a specific reason why I wouldn't recommend doing a torque arm simply for lowering. When you have a stock 10 bolt, and you add an aftermarket torque arm, lower control arms and other suspension goodies, there is absolutely no give or flexibility. It adds a lot of stress to the stocker 10 bolt. We all know how weak the 10 bolt is to begin with. I have seen someone that had all the suspension goodies we have mentioned minus an aftermarket torque arm. The week he added the aftermarket torque arm, you guessed it, that 10 bolt went kaboom. Thats why I would not recommend nor do I think its a good idea or necessary to get an aftermarket torque arm for a 10 bolt, lowered or not. If you have upgraded your rear and lowered the car, by all means, go for it, add that torque arm.

IMO that 10 bolt would have lasted a lot longer minus the aftermarket T/A. I had been running with no issues for 3 years prior to that. And as Y2k has said first time with the new T/A at the track and the 10 bolt broke. I had 1.5x 60"s before the change. Nice burnt out, cool day, DA in the 50/100 range, good track prep with VHT. I bet it would have been a 1.4x low or maybe even a high 1.3x 60". The car had never dead hooked like that before. I would not have had a lower 60" with the factory T/A. But I still think the 10 bolt would have lived that day with it.

[xmarkx]

IMO that 10 bolt would have lasted a lot longer minus the aftermarket T/A. I had been running with no issues for 3 years prior to that. And as Y2k has said first time with the new T/A at the track and the 10 bolt broke. I had 1.5x 60"s before the change. Nice burnt out, cool day, DA in the 50/100 range, good track prep with VHT. I bet it would have been a 1.4x low or maybe even a high 1.3x 60". The car had never dead hooked like that before. I would not have had a lower 60" with the factory T/A. But I still think the 10 bolt would have lived that day with it.

your probably right but the 10 bolt would of crapped out later on some other day if not that day. this way you just got it over with lol.

IMO if your lowering your car something mild like an inch I'd say that your not going to hurt anything with the stock TA but if you really drop it like 2" or more I feel like your pinnion angle is going to be off enough at that point that it's also going to be putting alot of stress on the rear if you continue to use the stock TA

[xmarkx]

also I agree with shady on all of his points. when I lowered my car, I changed every suspension piece to adjustable pieces.

[shady milkman]

IMO that 10 bolt would have lasted a lot longer minus the aftermarket T/A. I had been running with no issues for 3 years prior to that. And as Y2k has said first time with the new T/A at the track and the 10 bolt broke. I had 1.5x 60"s before the change. Nice burnt out, cool day, DA in the 50/100 range, good track prep with VHT. I bet it would have been a 1.4x low or maybe even a high 1.3x 60". The car had never dead hooked like that before. I would not have had a lower 60" with the factory T/A. But I still think the 10 bolt would have lived that day with it.

cutting 1.5x 60 ft is not a norm ...and pushing the limits of the 10 bolt as is.....remember the OP said it is a weekend cruiser ..made no mention of tracking it or how far he plans on taking the car mod wise....if he plans on cutting 1.5 or lower 60 foot times at the strip with drag radials (i assume ) or slicks...it is crazy to think the 10 bolt is going to last with a good hook...torque arm or not.

[shady milkman]

There is a specific reason why I wouldn't recommend doing a torque arm simply for lowering. When you have a stock 10 bolt, and you add an aftermarket torque arm, lower control arms and other suspension goodies, there is absolutely no give or flexibility. It adds a lot of stress to the stocker 10 bolt. We all know how weak the 10 bolt is to begin with. I have seen someone that had all the suspension goodies we have mentioned minus an aftermarket torque arm. The week he added the aftermarket torque arm, you guessed it, that 10 bolt went kaboom. Thats why I would not recommend nor do I think its a good idea or necessary to get an aftermarket torque arm for a 10 bolt, lowered or not. If you have upgraded your rear and lowered the car, by all means, go for it, add that torque arm.

true..but a huge killer of the 10 bolt is wheel hop..wheel hop is solved by lower control arms and relocation brackets ...a misconfigured suspension set up is just as dangerous as a stout set up...but anyways this full suspension guy...what mods was he running..a4 or m6...drags , slicks,,street ..how often was he at the strip..what condition was the 10 bolt in before the torque arm.....i wont argue with you that a a/m torque arm will be stiff and transfer power more efficient...but for weekend warriors and such that are stripping their cars or launching ...a torque arm isnt going to be the end all.

[MrKid]

Ummm...I think OP has left the building...

[shady milkman]

Ummm...I think OP has left the building...