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Thread: Stock vs Hurst shifter
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03-15-2006, 12:12 PM #1
Stock vs Hurst shifter
Will I notice a difference if I install a stock 2002 WS6 Hurst shifter instead of my stock 98 GM shifter? Will it fit?
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03-16-2006, 07:24 AM #2
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Yes you will notice a difference. Shorter throw but slightly higher in/out of gear handball effort. Yes it will exchange exactly.
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03-16-2006, 07:45 AM #3
Fine, thanks!
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03-17-2006, 06:09 AM #4
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Ok. Do you need one of these(factory Hurst)?
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03-17-2006, 06:17 AM #5
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yellow- 02 Collector Edition TA
If you really want a hurst get the shifter direct from hurst not the gm version. The gm version did not have shift stops on it for bangin gears where the shifter direct from hurst does. Other than that they are identical shifters in appearance and feel.
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03-17-2006, 06:30 AM #6Originally Posted by 30thbird
thanks anyway.
it's a GM Hurst shifter, can I modify it to have the shift stops?
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03-17-2006, 09:19 AM #7
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You do not need the stops. In fact if they are adjusted carrectly they do nothing / incorrectly, they will damage your synchros and forks. Therefore , in this case, none is better.
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03-21-2006, 03:18 PM #8
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red- 00 ram air ta
thats easy for you to say as long as you dont keep overshifting and fry your synchros. get the shifter with the stops and adjust it properly, case closed
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03-21-2006, 11:05 PM #9Originally Posted by lmt0705
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03-22-2006, 04:02 AM #10
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yellow- 02 Collector Edition TA
The shift stops function just as they should, over extending the shift could possibly break a fork that’s the reason for them. Even when engaged in gear there is still movement forward and back. Unless you do a lot of racing or really enjoy ripping through the gears they are just an added safety cushion.
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03-23-2006, 04:15 AM #11
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If you really knew what you were talking about you would know the the shift rail( what you control by the shifter) has a full limited travel in the guide plate. This is an internal control that will not allow an over travel. What sells shifter stops is the mistaken notion that a man has enough energy to bend a fork in an over travel- not even a gorill can do this. What actually bends forks is a clash shift. The clashing, rejection of the sleeve from the gear, puts a force on the fork that would break an arm if you even tried to hold it back. If you are burning up synchros it is not because you over-extend a shift fork , its because you are shifting against a clutch.The synchronizer only works to match speed before the sleeve engages the gear.There is no stop that will do anything to protect from a clash shift. The stops are just a marketing ploy by the aftermarket shifter manufactureres. If the stop actually had merrit do you really think the trans would not come with them new?
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03-23-2006, 07:52 AM #12
What is a clash shift? Is is when you try to insert a gear before the parts aren't at the same speed?
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03-23-2006, 08:50 AM #13
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A clash shift is a shift the is attempted when the clutch is not fully dis engaged or when a synchronizer blocker ring is worn to the point that it no longer matches speed . It is mostly ( but not always audible)characterized by a gear grinding sound.
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04-04-2006, 01:29 PM #14
I finally installed the Hurst shifter (from a 2002 WS6).
What a difference! It has a shorter throw and the return springs are stronger, this allows faster and more precise shifts.
MODS: A4 > M6 conversion, SC raptor hood, Vortech V9 G-Trim SQ, homemade water-alcohol injection
DYNO: 410 RWHP, 417 TORQUE @ 5 PSI
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04-04-2006, 04:08 PM #15Originally Posted by 30thbird
oh that's that noise !,
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04-06-2006, 04:57 AM #16
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That is not a happy noise . Its hard part -to-hard part wear going on.
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04-06-2006, 07:27 AM #17
About shifting: when I shift (no matter from what - to what gear) I always have to wait a little (1/2 - 1 second). Like if the synchro rings would need a moment to adjust the gears speed. It never grinds, it just take a little time.
The clutch is desingaging well too.
Is it normal?
Mine is a 97 Borg Warner filled with mineral ATF.
With Synchromesh it was better but in winter this oil is too thick
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04-06-2006, 10:52 AM #18
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I think what you are feeling is the synchronizer work being done. If you apply more handball load, you may overwork the sync. and cause a clash. If your trans has not been rebuilt, it has a composite paper lining on the blocker rings. This material can glaze from abusive shifts and that can cause a permanent loss of capacity to synchronize. It is also designed for ATF.Syncromesh is an approved synthetic blend but it is still a thicker oil and that will affect high-demand shifts.Did your trans ever see other synthetic fluids? Did your trans see heavy duty before you? ( Or by you?)
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04-11-2006, 02:21 PM #19
This is an occasion T56, theoretically from a "non raced" 99 Camaro with 40'000 miles.
No idea what the previous owner did because I bought it from a shop as swap kit for my in origin automatic car.
No heavy duty by me...
I used synchromesh only during a couple of weeks and I did like it, but only after a good warm up (1/2 hour in winter).
I filled once an Agip ATF oil (dexron III spec) which is supposed to be synthetic but I'm not sure.
It did shift better during one or two days, then it started to grind (!!!).
I put back the mineral ATF dexron III and since then it's ok (never grinded).
It just has this little delay. Not too bad, but I think this tranny could do better.
Is there something to "treat" the synchro-rings without opening the tranny?
Like an additive?
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04-12-2006, 04:55 AM #20
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You are playing with fire when you contemplate additives. Friction modifiers that are intended for gear oils can delaminate the organic material that lines the synchro blocker rings. Yes they will shift better for awhile, but at the cost of useful life. Thicker oils( like synchromesh) allow for shoother shifts but impede quicker shifts. If you do not know that the blockers in your box were changed from the paper/ organic originals to the carbon-particle "new" parts, you may have damage to the synchros from its prior life that are giving you the performance you don't like. This can either be from use or oil fill.The carbon-particle blockers produce a more aggressive ( notchy) shift but are more forgiving to hard use AND synthetic oils.
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