Full bolt on power?

**TransAmPhantom** · 03-14-2010, 09:57 AM

This is just a kinda for fun thread. How much HP from your experience do you guys think you can get out of a 2002 t/a? With just full bolt ons? Im sure at least 1 of you have just done that and maybe have some numbers on hp/tq, maybe a quartermile or 0-60?

**slpdablueZ28** · 03-14-2010, 10:22 AM

well with the bolt ons i got now and a dyno tune i got some kinda decent numbers i guess. everything is in the sig

**Y2KPewterSS** · 03-14-2010, 03:54 PM

Full bolt ons should get you to about 345-350 RWHP in a manual, about 335-340 in an auto.

**karpetcm** · 03-14-2010, 03:59 PM

Im at 336rwhp and 349rwtq with a mail order tune with the mods i have which are in my sig. I think once i install my SSRA,LT's, ORY and re-tune i should be atleast 355-360 rwhp from a 6 speed car, SSRA wont help much on a dyno anyway. On average from a 6speed full bolt on car you should be 340-360 rwhp and A4 330-340 rwhp, give or take.

**TransAmPhantom** · 03-14-2010, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by karpetcm

Im at 336rwhp and 349rwtq with a mail order tune with the mods i have which are in my sig. I think once i install my SSRA,LT's, ORY and re-tune i should be atleast 355-360 rwhp from a 6 speed car, SSRA wont help much on a dyno anyway. On average from a 6speed full bolt on car you should be 340-360 rwhp and A4 330-340 rwhp, give or take.

Hmm, i was hopin' for higher numbers....is there a difference in throttle response and junk tho? I was thinkin' of doin' the usual...prolly some pulleys. a CAI. maybe headers and jazz. My car is an A4.

**TransAmPhantom** · 03-14-2010, 04:42 PM

Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS

Full bolt ons should get you to about 345-350 RWHP in a manual, about 335-340 in an auto.

i know this is alot to ask..but what eactly would i have to do to get my 0-60 to around 4-4.5, if possible without slaughtering the mpg? I figure swapping gears and junk but id like to keep some mpg since its my daily drive.

**Y2KPewterSS** · 03-14-2010, 04:43 PM

Originally Posted by TransAmPhantom

i know this is alot to ask..but what eactly would i have to do to get my 0-60 to around 4-4.5, if possible without slaughtering the mpg? I figure swapping gears and junk but id like to keep some mpg since its my daily drive.

Stall convertor, 3500-3800 range. Your MPG will suffer in town, but highway MPG would stay the same.

**Hi-Po** · 03-14-2010, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by TransAmPhantom

i know this is alot to ask..but what eactly would i have to do to get my 0-60 to around 4-4.5, if possible without slaughtering the mpg? I figure swapping gears and junk but id like to keep some mpg since its my daily drive.

Get a stall in the 3600-3800 range, long tube headers and a nice merge/cat back. FAST 92 if money permits. Then get a tune and that will drastically wake up your car.

Your an auto, this is a good thing. Bad for Dyno numbers, but they dont win races.

**WhatUpWhatUp** · 03-14-2010, 09:28 PM

Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Get a stall in the 3600-3800 range, long tube headers and a nice merge/cat back. FAST 92 if money permits. Then get a tune and that will drastically wake up your car.

Your an auto, this is a good thing. Bad for Dyno numbers, but they dont win races.

why's an auto bad for dyno numbers ? and what do you mean they dont win races ?

**Hi-Po** · 03-14-2010, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by WhatUpWhatUp

why's an auto bad for dyno numbers ? and what do you mean they dont win races ?

Autos will always have more drivetrain loss, which will account for a lower dyno number. But, An auto(stalled) will almost always have the upper hand at the track or even on the street. Given the modifications are very similar and both tunes are correct.

What I meant was, Dyno numbers don't win races. To clarify things.

**67CamaroRSSS** · 03-14-2010, 10:13 PM

/\ This is why I run a stalled auto at the track.

**Hi-Po** · 03-14-2010, 10:17 PM

Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS

/\ This is why I run a stalled auto at the track.

I want a 4l80E with a brake so badly. My TA wont be a M6 forever, Track is too important.

**BLK2KSS** · 03-14-2010, 11:46 PM

I have LTs, ORY, ported TB, SLP MAF, SLP lid, and ASP underdrive pully and i put down 360hp and 370tq

**BLK2KSS** · 03-14-2010, 11:50 PM

Originally Posted by TransAmPhantom

This is just a kinda for fun thread. How much HP from your experience do you guys think you can get out of a 2002 t/a? With just full bolt ons? Im sure at least 1 of you have just done that and maybe have some numbers on hp/tq, maybe a quartermile or 0-60?

my buddy just dynoed his 02 TA A4 and got 321rwhp with just a kn filter. were doing LTs, ORY, TB, and lid this week and will update his new nubers for u.

**xzaero0** · 03-15-2010, 12:45 AM

With my bolt ons I put down 334hp and 324tq. Thats threw a 3k stall and a moser 9" with 3.70 gears.

**pewterz55** · 03-15-2010, 05:50 AM

Originally Posted by BLK2KSS

my buddy just dynoed his 02 TA A4 and got 321rwhp with just a kn filter. were doing LTs, ORY, TB, and lid this week and will update his new nubers for u.

321 RWHP stock????

**karpetcm** · 03-15-2010, 08:26 AM

It wasnt a A4 but ive seen a 01-02 WS6 M6 put down 331 RWHP bone stock on a dyna pack.

**mpfranks** · 03-15-2010, 10:22 AM

What kind of numbers would you make just on the motor with full bolt on? Only curious becuase I kinda want to get an engine plaque with "xxxhp". Just curious.

**karpetcm** · 03-15-2010, 11:40 AM

^^^Every car reacts a bit different to aftermarket mods. With full bolt ons for a M6 safe to say you should be about 350 RWHP on a dynojet. Some will see higher 360+rwhp and some will get 330rwhp with full bolt ons. In my case i should be about 350-360 rwhp. Using 15% Drivetrain loss 425hp is about 361 rwhp and 415hp is about 352rwhp. So hopefully that will help you out with the plaque.